stevetimetravlr

Nice and badass as usual.

Sounds great! anymore photos?

It ain't that simple Joe. Keep your friggin hands off of other peoples routes. If you did not put up the route, that you don't get to chop or add bolts without permission, and that goes for anyone. Certainly you can exercise free will and do whatever, but then someone else might decide to exercise free will on your face. I think its pretty humorous that some people like to get a route wired by repeating it endless times, and then they get all uptight and arrogant about a fixed piece of gear on a route that they don't need (since they have the route wired), thinking that this somehow makes them a bigger man or a tougher climber. GO CLIMB A DIFFERENT ROUTE BOYS. Something a little harder, more desperate, more challenging. But noooooooo, that would require some balls. Leave the damn bolts put in by the first ascentionist alone. Period, unless it is replacement. If you want to prove your worth to everyone, then there is a time tested method of doing that, and its called soloing. But don't think you are fooling anyone by trying to retro chop bolts with indignation. Fawking pussies.

because then Joseph will be hangdogging your routes...

Its been 35 years since I've done that route, and its still one of my most memorable. Its seems quite remote when you are up there. and very cool. I've always wanted to go back and do the North Peak. One of these days..

Hey Bucky, it was a bolt replacement. If you want to advocate chopping bolts at index, good for you, whatever, but replacing old bolts at index should be standard practice and not open to criticism.

If you have the climb wired, then maybe the bolt is not for you, but for the many people that have not lead the route dozens of times. I'd lay money you clipped that bolt the first time you went up it, so busted.

like this one?

Hey, are you sure I don't need any gear for this pitch! Kenny gives some helpful hints. The Plaidman wonders which way is up! hey, how did this picture of Larry get in here? He almost looks like hes sport climbing....naw...

supercool

Nice photos, looks cool.

Wow. You guys whaled on it. Nice.

Supersend!

Post his address. and a bounty.

I still have your stoppers I found last season.

I am greatly saddend by the loss of Nate, and my sincere condolences to his family and friends. Beacon is a place of savage beauty with its soaring cliffs and rugged landscape of the Gorge. Vertical rock and climbers and trains and peregrine falcons and elk herds, kiteboarders and islands and massive barges all sharing the same space. To be a climber at Beacon in the summer is to be in a very special place, and Nathan had to have been doing what he loved. I know we as climbers will always remember him here, and honor his memory as a fallen comrade. Peace be with you Nathan!

Is the rock wet or is it raining down there? Worth a trip to climb or looking gloomy?

What, thats not Freddy Mercury?

fast freddie. he made some bad personal choices as well.

Mountainsmith stuff is heavy and poorly designed. They are always dumping stuff on Steep and Cheap if you want to buy their crap. I bought a lumbar pack from them on there, and when I got it, it has this heavy duty padded belt with all these wierd support straps and crap, with one tiny little pocket for your keys and a water bottle holder. What a joke! It weighs at least 2 pounds. Never used it trail running, so lame.

I would say standard double rack up to #2 although Im sure it can be done with a single rack with a little back cleaning, and then single #3 and #4. Set of stoppers and set of offsets handy, and good assortment of micro cams very handy also.

I always have my sherpas carry some extra ladders up for glacier travel. The fiberglass ones are very stout but quite heavy, so I reccomend the aluminum ones. Lightweight, strong, and easily outfitted with packstraps, every team needs a couple 24 footers. Ladders are radder I say!!! plus its good training, and quite a conversation piece on the mountain.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pudOFG5X6uA

that Crazy Horse pitch right off the ledge makes me nervous to lead, ankle buster if stopper pulls or your belayer is not right on it. I'd rather be doing those kind of moves up in the air, so decided that since I'm a old man and in the interests of preserving my ankle I probably won't be doing that section henceforth, but then I'm weak and shaftless. Alrighty, hope to see you out there!

Alright Kev, which routes you getting on? Its pretty fairly steady traffic out there since it opened. Met some folks on Snag ledge the other day. Big shoutout to CH5 and crew who were on Jills Thrill. I forgot to say nice to meet ya, so intent was I on getting out of your way. This warm weather should bring out the crowds! GEt your Woody Goomsbah on!