rocky_joe

The Freney is pretty similar...The EVO fits my foot better, but the Scarpa boot is about 20-25 bucks cheaper. I guess fit is the main issue.

I have actually found I prefer the bowline on a bight. But same idea...I use the bunny ears to tie a rescue spider for assisted rappels, gets me down fast. Thanks for the input. Tom--that speed loop thing looks rad. I'm gonna give that a try sometime.

I went to that comp (I'm 20) with a buddy who's on the climbing team at the crux. I watched and bouldered mostly. Sweet gym...too sweet perhaps. I was messing around on a V3 just as we were about to leave and on the one small hold on the route, pulled too hard and BROKE my finger. the bone.

You don't sound like a troll, but maybe an elf. Ha, well really I'm more asking for good trad crags (I suppose my question was worded poorly). Mostly I've been a sport climber/boulderer, as are the majority of my buddies. I have done some multipitch and I'm looking to get on the big walls. I have done a bit of trad, but most of what I have done on gear is aid; I aid the columns atleast once a week and am getting pretty fast. I am competent in all my systems, from hauling to advanced rescue. I'm just looking for input on places that people have found similar style climbing (without heading all the way down to the Valley), so I can know what to expect.

snail--i'm not concerned about the gear related portions of the climb...that's where i am most confident in my skills and abilities. Cool, well looks like I'll be making some trips up north this summer. Pink-- why "KORE" why not "FUCK YEAH I OWNED THIS BITCH"?

Mostly I have climbed at Smith, lots of sport and a bit of trad. The majority of my aid/trad experience however has been at the columns and I am looking to start translating that to bigger, steeper, more difficult crags before really setting a date/plan for Yosemite. Have a favorite crag in OR?

A friend and I want to do a big wall this fall in Yosemite, we both have the technical skills, but perhaps what we lack is an idea for how difficult a Yosemite 5.9 is. Where would you guys say we could get a better idea of the style of climbing (eg good multi pitch fingers, hands, off-width)? To those of you who have climbed in Yosemite, what did you do to get ready for the climb? Where did you climb? How often? And what's one thing you forgot that you wished you would have had on the wall?

koz--dumbass? really? the best insult you could muster. also nice job taking my comment about spanish climbing being superior out of context. if you have read the thread Ivan specifically asked which would be of greater benefit to have his daughter learn for guiding/climing reasons. dumbass. and those housekeepers and guys selling tacos on the street are the fastest growing ethnic population in the US. Mexico is our closest neighbor and a huge trading partner as well (granted not close to China). Apart from Mexico there are 20 other spanish speaking countries, that's a lot of people one can talk to and places to travel through knowing Spanish. China is not our largest geopolitical rival, that would be japan. So no climbing isn't the basis for my statement but it sure is a plus, esp if one is inclined to clip some bolts on steep limestone. Oh and will be studying in Spain this next spring, bet you can't guess why I chose Spain over other spanish speaking countries...

Who cares, how often do you speak English at an educated level? i would guess it's quite rare. (I mean we are on an internet forum where slang is comun y corriente) Put her in the spanish program. Every kid in the US should be fluent in spanish by high school. And Spain (as well as Mexico) has way better climbing than China.

don't bother, with all the new snow, just the approach would be a significant challenge. also avi danger is quite high this weekend. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=44.33219834648983&lon=-121.83906555175781&site=mfr&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en

Definitely better to use a draw (sling). While one biner will do just fine to hold you up, consider the rope drag on the rock and against the hanger itself, not exactly a dream for a sheath. As for two biners together, unless I'm aiding (and even then) I try to avoid it. Especially if you are using d-shaped biners, biner on biner action usually leads to something coming undone. I'd always suggest using a draw whenever possible.

Roped Soloing it's called. It's actually pretty straight forward. Set an anchor at the base of the climb, and fix the line. Using an autolocking belay device (grigri, cinch, yoyo, etc.) attach the line to harness as if to belay a leader, instead the line that would normally go to the climb should now go to the anchor. Climb and clip giving yourself slack as needed. There are devices made for roped soloing, but it can be done with an autolocking device, or even a clove, so why drop the extra penny?

I have a piece of gear (#6 stopper) that I am considering tossing...I'm not sure if I should though. Here's the story, I was cleaning the piece and since I was aiding, it was in there quite well. Somehow I managed to screw up the wire with my nut tool. The wires are separated a bit, but none broken. Is it time for this piece to meet its maker?

steepandcheep.com right now, if your are lucky enough to catch it. Mammut Genesis 50m superdry 8.5 half

Planning a trip to Diamond Peak this April. I am hoping to access via Divide Lake trailhead and "climb" the NE ridge. Anyone know about the road situation? When can one expect to get within a reasonable distance (<4mi) of that Trailhead? Or is there a better point to access that side of the mountain from?

cool, but how the hell does one repel?

That last photo is fantastic!!!

Wow, that might be a ways over my head, A3? F--k that. Maybe I'll think about it after a few more years.

Dane is right. Every time I have dealt with BD they have been absolutely stellar. I'm sure they'll help you out. Send it in.

how about on the matterhorn, is the rock good?

Thinking of spending some time out there this spring/summer. Wondering if there are any moderate multipitch rock lines worth seeking out? Any potential, or is the granite there like the basalt/andecite in the cascade volcanoes?

I dunno about that. Granted I have not been to the WWU gym, but if it is anything like the hunk of shite we have at UO, then I can easily see getting any and all serious college climbers to join your gym. The Crux in Eugene definitely has that going for it. Population of Bellingham WA : 75,000 Population of Eugene OR : 154,000 Population of Whatcom County WA: 166,000 Population of Lane County OR: 322,000 Ya think the deomgraphics are a little different? I don't agree that 75,000 is to small a population to support a gym, much less the 166,00 in the county. In fact I think that Eugene could use another gym, the Crux is stretched to the seams most weeknights. So, yeah I would think 75,000 more than enough to support a gym.

I dunno about that. Granted I have not been to the WWU gym, but if it is anything like the hunk of shite we have at UO, then I can easily see getting any and all serious college climbers to join your gym. The Crux in Eugene definitely has that going for it.

wow, i hope that was sarcastic...

G-Spotter...that is the best beta ever. I use it all the time, and like magic it usually works. Rob... I second that with a resounding, "Climb Harder." About your aider situation though, I had a friend who used webbing to make his and sewed sections of inner tube to make the steps sturdy. Although I am not sure if it is lighter than a manufactured aider. Worth a try though. You could also try a Purcell Prusik as an aider. Very useful and it only takes two 10' lengths of cord.