yeoman

the weekend warrior thing can wear you out fast in the bay area. i did it for a little over a year and was over it. too far from snow and while there are a lot of small crags around the bay, most of them suck in comparison to everything the Sierra offers. That said, one of the better places to climb is close to you at Castle Rock SP. Sandstone bouldering that some people really dig. You're maybe a little over an hour from the entrance of Pinnacles NM. I personally really like that place, but it's a bit of an acquired taste. Brad Young has an excellent guide book for that place, and there is a new (2013) guide for the Bay Area and all its little crags. Plenty of great cycling and trail running which you can do easily year round. Get a surfboard too.

Nice TR man. Looks like a good route.

Bump for Hood conditions.... Looks like there has been some snow and wind recently. Thanks for any updates.

$hit, I knew I'd see something sick checking in here. Awesome

Great topic. I've dealt with debilitating leg cramps on big days and it can stop me nearly in my tracks. I'd prefer to prepare and treat nutritionally, but I believe I have some circulation issues that cause some of the problems I have in one of my legs. So I either don't push it (the lame option) or keep experimenting with diet, training, stretching, supplements, etc. I've tried many different things and the most recent and what I think useful tactic are the Hammer Enduralytes. I've also started "loading" a bit on potassium (bananas) days before an outing. Coconut water is supposed to really help re-hydrate the body too. The next wall I do I will have a liter or two of coconut water. I have carried salt and those salt stick tablets, but I can't say I've had a lot of success with those methods. There's something else missing that I can't get from just salt. Gatorade is a joke. Gu brand and Nuun sports mix are my preferred brands now. I won my first can of Gu mix at a ski movie once. After using that stuff, I realized how much Gatorade actually sucked. Note to company reps: Those movie giveaways work. I've turned several people onto Gu powder since winning that first jug. There is a lot of differing opinions on what actually causes cramps and how you can prevent and treat them. Here's an interesting article that looked at pickle juice as an antidote to cramps. http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/06/09/phys-ed-can-pickle-juice-stop-muscle-cramps/ (I see this was already posted. Has a lot of other info on cramps though) I have thought about carrying a bottle of pickle juice and even have a jar in the fridge at home in hopes of testing it some day. But since I've found the Enduralytes, I just pop one and hydrate properly and the cramps at home seem to not be nearly as much of an issue. My dad swears by yellow mustard and he keeps a bottle beside his bed for night time cramps (which are the worst). This hasn't worked for me. I keep salt and water by my bedside too and have in the past hit that when a night time cramp strikes and it has worked. I actually think it's just the water and getting up and stretching the muscle a bit that works it out. But maybe the salt does do something?? Nothing like rolling over in bed and having your calve or hamstring go into full seizure mode.

If you heave to head back to WC, there is a crag that is actually worth a half day or so on Diablo. Needs to be cool though and there is a raptor closure a good portion of the year. Trail running is really quite good on Diablo and there's a good chance you won't see anyone else on any weekday evening. Doubt you'd have a bike either, but the road biking is quite good as well.

thanks for the info

Nice TR. Which route did you descend? The same? How was it?

Huh, thought I would update this a bit... So yeah, have been in the east bay for almost 2 years, how the hell did that happen so fast?? Yeah so the weekend warrior thing has basically been in full effect and it pretty much blows. I've certainly got a lot of climbing in but it comes with a cost. The amount of driving required to get to the goods here is too much for me and many times, if you are unfortunately stuck on that weekend warrior schedule, the goods are crowded. And why this really blows so much is because California is friggen huge and there is plenty of wild places to get out to, but you gotta be on the right schedule. I have managed to meet an incredible woman and we are moving in together, in Tahoe. There certainly isn't a shortage of great rock and good skiing up there so I'm very much looking forward to the change. Someone said in this thread that living in the Bay for a couple years is something everyone should do if given the chance. That dude hit the nail on the head. I don't regret it but I don't really feel the need to stay here any longer.

there is some climbing in southern Ohio and I've seen pics of some ice in of all places, Columbus. Most gyms I've ever had to test in were 5.10 test routes. Took me awhile to get up to taking that test, took a lot of TRing, then I got it.

REI has kind of passed it's apex of usefulness for me. I can't get very specific gear there anymore. Still great for gear for the gf, shot blocks, some books and outdoors staples. I've come to accept that they aren't employing people who have nearly as much interest in gear as I do, evidenced by the genius who recently told me you're not supposed to use ANY flick lock pole for any type of skiing. I decided to bite my tongue rather than try to explain that 90% of the type of skiing I do is basically hiking on snow. Better tell all those people you see in the backcountry with BD flicklocks they are using the wrong poles I'm okay with old women supporting my hardware habits. I won't return a worn out pair of gloves or shoes, but a busted gps or other high ticket item, you bet.

oh man, that looks so friggen sweet. nice job.

Any chance those broken links can be fixed?

damn' Billy this is a great thread, esp given I was just asking about Himalaya trip planning.

was wondering what if anything happened with this... appears not much as you still get the same list of crappy gyms in B-ham. a nice gym would be sweet.

Am contemplating going up Shasta this coming weekend. I've wanted to get up there all summer but it hasn't happened. I blame that on my on-going relationship with Yosemite National Park... Given it was a big snow year, I believe we could start skinning between 8k-9k and get a nice long descent from the summit on skis. I only want to do this on skis (you can bring a split board, I don't mind) But I'm not walking down for hours what can be skied in minutes. I need a motivated partner who wants to do it and can convince me to go. I'd leave on the 2nd or 3rd and if we finish early, mebbie do some craggin afterwards. pm if interested. I'm not around this site all that much these days so if you reply to this thread there is a chance I might not see it. btw.. I'm coming from the bay area, ca. down to share a ride if it worked out.

Absolutely jaw dropping! Well done.

Wow, that is how it is done. Strong work!

Update... One climber is down... http://www.mtshastanews.com/news/x1447161302/One-Mt-Shasta-climber-located-search-for-second-man-continues from summitpost thread.... http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=52497&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15&sid=058625fd3f8d465c59f6a2c7682828a0

http://www.mtshastanews.com/news/x1176897376/Search-is-on-for-two-climbers-stranded-on-Mt-Shasta the article was just updated.... Today around 2 p.m.Thomas called the Sheriff's Department on his cell phone and is currently coming down the mountain at an elevation of about 7,000 feet. He has a map and a compass with him, Gravenkamp said. Thomas reported that his climbing partner was not doing well and he made the decision it would be best to try to make his way down the mountain today. The two Forest Service Mountain Rangers are on snowmobiles and will continue searching at the 7,000-foot elevation for Thomas. A friend of Thomas has been in contact with the Sheriff’s Office and reports that he is an experienced climber who has climbed Mount Shasta a number of times, however, the was the first time he climbed the more technical north side Hotlum/Bolam Route, Gravenkamp said. A base station has been established along Military Pass Road off of Highway 97. The Forest Service said that the men did not fill out a wilderness permit.

SHIT I know Mark, we met a few weekends ago and went cragging for a morning here in Berkeley. He's been up to Shasta a number of times this winter with varying levels of success. He's got a good head on his shoulders and appeared to be good shape. He's a good kid, lets send out some hope, thoughts and prayers for the both of them. And please post any updates. Supertopo thread... http://supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1130949/Think-good-thoughts-for-some-friends-on-Shasa

I was there this past weekend... Bard-Harrington Chouinard Main Falls Some good lines were gettin' climbed. Watch out for idiots trying to put in top ropes right on top of your group

Take into account that we had big packs (probably ~45 lb). I think we spent about 4 hours getting to camp which was at about 9800'. I would recommend taking the time to do this one overnight though as the area is stunning and well worth bringing some extra weight for for an overnight trip. Plus you would benefit from getting an early start the next morning and get the sunlight on the upper pitches which disappears in the afternoon.

I climbed Freezy Nuts with Billy last year. I'll need to check the dates, but I think we went in early May. The conditions were superb. Much better than the conditions my buddy reported only 3 weeks earlier. FN is a gigantic funnel for anything melting off the top of Werewolf Tower (?) (the peak to the north of the FN Col). So stuff that melts off that tower falls into there and as you'll see in the slot, there isn't anywhere for it to go but through it. So in my opinion, you need to make sure those slopes up there are clear because when sun hits it, stuff falls. I have a feeling the difficulty of the route varies a LOT. When we climbed it it was basically supportable snow/snice/ice the whole way. The top opens up into a beautiful, exposed amphitheater with the final snow pitches being the steepest and the crux (imho). And is a great moderate route. I second Japanese Colouir on Barrill as a great first Ruth route. Really a great climb and gives you an idea of what the scale is like on the routes in the area.

Trip: Eastern Sierra of California - Matterhorn Peak, North Arete winter attempt Date: 2/15/2010 Trip Report: First winter in CA after several in Alaska has meant no ice and nothing even alpine like. Until now! Tyler, a strong ice and rock climber had the idea to try Matterhorn Peak as a winter ascent. The approach involves about 5 miles to the base and 5200' of elevation gain. Objective is the pointy peak left of center. SuperTopo calls this a massive approach. I'm glad to have broken myself in with this as my first Sierra approach. With big ass packs and breakable crust to deal with on the way out too. Getting a bit closer, we camped on the bench in the lower left of the photo, still ~2000' below the start of the route. So yeah, it is a burly approach Tyler forgot his spoon, or better yet, that's part of his light is right alpinist doctrine and can be seen here eating cheese and jerky spiked taters with the handle of his toothbrush. Got a reasonably early start the next morning. Unfortunately not early enough to catch those rays. We climbed in the shade all day. This would be the one and only pic I would take while on route as this was the easiest the climbing would get. Tyler leading out at the start with crampons and ice tools. We determined in the end we were off the North Arete route but ended up climbing two long, beautiful pitches. Tyler summed it up best when he said he didn't care if we were off route, the two pitches we did were fantastic, offering delicate footwork, hooking, wild stemming and in general, lots of fun. I agreed. Two raps later, the slog out commenced. And a slog it was. We came in on skis and they performed very well. However, myself nor Tyler was prepared to deal with the incredible amount of breakable crust that lie before us. Heavy packs + mountaineering boots on light skis are not a good combo when faced with LOTS of breakable crust and bullet proof styrofoam. After flailing for a bit on our skis, we decided to strap them onto the pack and start hoofing it back towards camp. 2000' of mostly not so bad postholing, we were back at camp. Broke camp as the sun was dimming and began the trek back to the car, still on foot. It's funny, I now have a completely different appreciation for snowshoers. I usually despise the damn' things for what they do to a good skin track. But in this instance, the stupid things were a lifesaver. This area attracts them by the Suburban load and below camp there was a marvelous snowshoe track that had re-frozen in the twilight and gave us a very good walking surface. Without it, the slog would have most likely crossed the line into epic territory. With it, we enjoyed a beautiful starlit walk out Horse Creek. If we didn't need to be back in the east bay that night we probably could have finished. But getting onto the actual route was going to require another bold lead on Tyler's part. The route. Am now very much looking forward to High Sierra rock season. This is some good shit Approach Notes: Skis, lungs