Matt Kidd

It was great getting to know you Jack. Sorry we won't climb together again, I was looking forward to it. You and your family are in my thoughts.

Is he talking about doing a rock climb or hiking the back side?

Like my Quantum Techs quite a bit. Swing feels nicer than the Matrix to me.

Lots to read on this. Use the search function here on cc.com, and Dane has written extensively on your various options on his blog... Good luck. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/new-2011-la-sportiva-batura_14.html http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1012582/Searchpage/1/Main/79857/Words/batura/Search/true/Re_boot_question#Post1012582 http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/search?q=baruntse

Hey G - Check out that new gen of Grivels. You know I love my air tech, but those Freneys look great - eyeing the 30. Not sure of the big waist strap, but if it sits high... http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/rucksacks/synoptic

Hey Dave - which did you see, the Force or the Avatars? Heard about a limited EU release on the Avatars this fall. Hate to know retail on those. Considering the temps over there right now you might be able to dig up a few Nomics to offset the cost...

Seems like BD has put some downward pressure on Grivel screw pricing as well. I don't remember the Helix and BD being so closely priced, and I think that the 360 was selling for $75 a year or two ago.

Don't know how it was, but BD stuff sure isn't cheaper in Europe now... I'm just speculating, but I would imagine that the mec prices are lower because of volume purchasing and reduced margin?

It is cheaper, but you are probably comparing the old Turbo here with the new Express south of the border. The Express screws are $49 up here at MEC. Still a good price to me...

Ya but planning two ski setups - this one with short, light skis and the superlites just for carryover routes and approaches, and one for everything else. Expensive, yes... but I will have this setup strapped to my back for probably more time than I will be skiing with them. Might be worth it... Food for thought though.

Yeah I looked at those Sportivas, but they are a bit too pricey for me. Dynafit claims the speed superlite are a full release... Don't know myself. Couldn't have been worse than the ski over to the Ginat though, eh Dane?

http://www.dynafit.com/product/bindings/tlt-speed-superlite Anyone sporting these? Any feedback? For me not as much about the down with this binding, they are going to be set up with light skis for carry over routes. I'm not expecting any screaming deals on these at this point, but where would you expect to find the best pricing? Thanks

Pretty easy to find pics from fun days out. Looking forward to the next ones! Chilly day on Professors: Warm day on Polar Circus: You'll be better before you know it! -m

Gotta second this unfortunately. Had heard of it before but was skeptical until I experienced it a couple times myself. Grivels for me...

Where?

Weren't happy with them on the weekend? How much you asking?

Don't worry, you haven't been forgotten. A lot of work is being done by few people and I think we can all appreciate that it is worth taking the time to do it right. I asked for you and here is where things are at: "We are still awaiting all the addresses to come in from the kickstarter surveys. We are also in the process of creating the poster. It will be later in June or even July before we start sending them out. It took time to locate the photo we needed for the poster and are now having it cleaned and digitized. The slides are 20 years old at this point, so a bit delicate. This is a very long process, so some folks are bound to get a little ansy and may lose faith. We will continue to do our best to keep folks interested as we go along. We sincerely appreciate your support!! Connie"

+1 I like the Petzl Sum'tec for this sort of stuff. Nice and light, and you can do a lot with it.

I think that this is good advice. Or find a club/mentor that can take you out for a day. The advantage of a guide is that you know they will give you a safe day out. Being new you aren't in much of a position to evaluate your partner's abilities/practices. Good luck.

Hey G - our young friend discovered that you can get a pick for ice for the Carbon, but I agree it is pretty specific for mixed or maybe steep waterfalls. If I had the choice I'd probably go for the Force Alloy in any event, though the Carbons do feel pretty sweet. Not that I can chuck that sort of cash at them in any event. Even if the price is out of my range I like that they are pushing the envelope as far as design and material. Curious to feel the Avatar with the magnesium, looks like something from an Aliens movie...

How much rock gear was also on the sling?

Just out of curiosity, no one is actually racking screws on the sling are they? I have seen it done a couple times but it has always struck me as quite odd. One thing is for sure - 360s and rock gear need to be kept separate, though I am honestly sick of the 360s in general...

For me yes to rock gear on a sling in the alpine most of the time. Screws always on the harness, along with runners as I don't like them dangling from the sling and getting tangled in the rock gear. I may not use a sling if there is a small rack for the route and it will stay tidy on the harness. If no rock gear then all on the harness for me, though for waterfalls the double length sling pre setup for anchors around the shoulder is my favorite approach. A small problem with the sling is what happening in the picture. Gathering runners and chucking them on the shoulder, taking the pack on and off for a belay jacket or food or whatever, and soon when you want to trade leads you have a pack, runner, and gear sling tangle to contend with. Not grievous, but something to keep an eye on. Liked the blog post. Maybe also an argument for block leading? Seems to me that at least in the alpine each pitch consumes less than half of the rack on average. Means less gear being transferred at each belay to block lead, thus faster and less chance of dropping...

After this season the plan was to get some really short skis to put some old Silverettas on for carryovers with my Spantiks. My climbing partner had tried this, however, and said they were much more difficult to ski with mountain boots than a longer ski, not even while skiing in deep stuff. He changed back. Is this your experience? Other thoughts or suggestions? Post holing back from routes and carrying boots to the base this year has motivated me to try something new.