Matt Kidd

That's quite the name for the variation. I'm e-mailing the pics but I'll leave it to you to post them up. Good day out for sure.

I e-mailed GNA when they were still around about the quantum light and they didn't stock it because they didn't consider the weight savings worth the mark up over the matrix. You'd have to get it imported I imagine unless you know something I don't. I wonder if it might be a little less cold to hold onto all day than the matrix? If you were buying for waterfall ice in equal proportions to alpine I would probably go with something else. Pretty good option as a second tool for alpine though, IMHO.

Good info, thanks. The wider fit alone kills it for me. Not going to go on a huge search for a pair to try if they probably won't work anyhow. The narrow fit with fairly generous toe box has been what has always kept me in sportivas.

Funny, I have the original Nepals and the Trango S Evos and find them both to be very comfortable. The Nepals are a bit more generous in the toe box, which is nice, but I don't mind walking in either. The discussions of 20 hrs of usage devastating the sole are possibly a bit of hyperbole then? I don't mind a bit less durability from the fabric boots if they are performing well. Not wealthy enough to resole every 20 hrs though. Basically up here I can try on the Trango Extreme Evo at MEC but I don't think anywhere carries the Prime. Would like to try on both and have a sense of how both are working for people before I drop the $$. Seems as if not too many people are getting into the Primes, which is too bad because I think they might be what I'm looking for.

To resurrect this discussion, anyone using the Primes these days? Durability, comfort? On the Trango Extreme Evo there are lots of reviews complaining of poor durability especially of the sole. How are they wearing?

I sent you a pm

might be a job in the replacement...

[video:youtube] Nick's trip video.

Any vancouver climbers want to spend turkey weekend in Skaha? Would also meet up with people from other areas...

The anchor in the pic is a v-thread. The top was a picket rap because I hate bollards. The whole route was pretty much ice, but I'm sure there's a good 6-8 inches of snow now at least if the Baker seracs are any indication. Seemed like this route had a bit of a reputation for being dangerous after the '91 accident, but I think it is not exceptionally so for an alpine route. There is for sure loose rock, and entry to the Hanging Glacier could be interesting, but a bit of care keeps it all reasonable. I would encourage people to get on it!! Will post more pics of the arete if Nick has some good ones.

Route takes rib to left of the Hanging Glacier Upper 2/3 of arete Mid Arete Terminal Seracs of Hanging Glacier Sunrise on Baker Rapping to Col End of Arete, Beginning of ice Hell's Highway

Trip: Mt. Shuksan - Northwest Arete Date: 09/26/2009 Trip Report: My partner Nick and I had met in Squamish while bouldering, and had planned to get into the mountains before the summer was out. With the season winding down and an amazing weekend forecast it worked out that we both had time to take advantage. I had wanted to get onto Shuksan for a while, and was attracted to the variety and situation offered by the Northwest Arete. Nick was into it, so down we drove on Friday night. The plan was to approach and climb the arete on Saturday, and complete the ice, summit, descend the Chimneys, and head back to the cars Sunday night. Neither of us had been on Shuksan before so we gave ourselves an extra day for route finding and late season conditions, which turned out to be a good idea. Saturday went smoothly, we left the car at about 6:45 and headed down the forest service road which is also the approach for the North Face, and was also quite overgrown with alder. When it was convenient we dropped off toward valley bottom and followed game trails and older growth to the creek. The crossing was easy on logs. There was a roughly flagged route up to the ridge crest which we sometimes followed, but mostly we just stayed in the trees. The only important beta is to avoid walking too far up the drainage before heading for the ridge crest as it gets steep if you go too far. Once on the ridge crest stay there. The temptation is to contour but it is easier to stay high. The approach took us about 3.75hrs, right on according to the book and we weren't setting any land speed records. The route crosses mellow snow/ice to an indistinct arete which becomes more obvious the higher you climb. The lower arete is mostly 4th class with some low 5th on pretty good rock, and as you climb higher the exposure increases and rock quality decreases. We only took out the rope for two pitches, and they were quite loose. One was at the elevation of the terminal serac of the Hanging Glacier, was loose, run out and required a bit of gardening. Maybe 5.6/7? There were other possible chimneys, this one was the second closest to the ridge crest. The ridgecrest chimney looked really loose/nasty. After the pitch there was some scree walking and some fun low fifth to a beautifully clean biv site where I believe most usually drop down onto the glacier. We took advantage and enjoyed the sunset/sunrise views of Baker. Sunday morning we dropped down to scout access to the Hanging Glacier. It was pretty broken up so we opted to climb higher on the arete. There was a loose gulley followed by a short pitch (the second one we roped for, again 5.6/7?) that we only roped due to rock quality. We ended up climbing out the entire arete and rapped down into a col with a walk on approach to the Hanging Glacier. The route then has two pitches of AI2+, Nick's first alpine ice. It was fun, but quite broken up at the top and required a fair amount of time to negotiate. Definately late season conditions, as was the traverse to the south side. Lots of end running/routefinding. Once on the south side it was getting on, and neither of us had done the Fischer Chimneys, so we decided to forego the summit and head down. Hell's Highway was quite broken and melted out, and we decided to rap it (1 rap on a picket, 3 on v-threads). It was getting on by then, and we were thinking about bivy sites. We spotted a tent on the Upper Curtis, and headed up to say hi. Nice couple guys from Colorado, one formerly from Squamish. They suggested heading to the rock between the Upper Curtis and Winnie's Slide for the nice spots and running water. It was great advise (thanks guys). Windy night under the tarp, and an uneventful descent down the Chimneys and back to the road around 11:30 I think, and a great Forest Service guy gave us a lift down to the picnic area on his tractor (thanks a lot!!). A nice lady from Bellingham gave us a lift to the beginning of our forest service road (thanks a lot!!) And then 2.5kms later we reached our car. Oh yeah, if you're headed up the Chimneys it is a good idea to bring at least a couple ice screws. Gear Notes: Nuts and cams #.5 to 2., a couple pins which I didn't place (but could have). Brought 7 ice screws but less would do if your party is comfortable on ice. 2 tools, I think one would be fine in earlier season depending on comfort level. 2 pickets. Approach Notes: Take the ridge approach in late season. According to some Japanese climbers the White Salmon Creek approach was a nightmare.

Outstanding route as Marc said. Rock was great, situation was great, and weather was ideal. Fun to get out with keen young people. Thanks for the trip!

You bullying again Marc? Shouldn't you be writing up the TR instead of picking on people?

Quite a story

Great area, looks like rain ahead though (surprise, surprise).

Beware rockfall in the descent gulley. Should be an obvious point but it almost got me so I feel compelled to mention it.

Best picture I have of Bug/Snowpatch col conditions. Could carefully pick your way up the right hand choss or stick to the ice/snow option as we preferred on center right.

Great TR, looks like a cool route. How much longer was the approach on the south side of Snowpatch? I was there last week and the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col was crappy, but definately not the horror show that people made it out to be. The worst part was the lineup for the two rappels at the end of the day. Each party had to complete both and clear out to avoid rockfall from the next. We were waiting for around an hour and a half...

Not sure if it's the same couple that own the lodge anymore, but if it is then the husband is a great source for beta. Met the guy at Berg Lake a couple years ago and he's not surprisingly a wealth of knowledge about all the different routes and variations if you want any specifics.

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Wish I could have joined you Marc.