hafilax

The rule of thumb is to be within 30% of your partner's weight. Anchoring yourself can make for a pretty hard stop for your partner and it's often good to be somewhat mobile. Wear a backpack with enough weight to make up the difference?

I am the walrus.

The CC tryst continues...

Fall is my favourite time of the year.

EPIC=Everyone Parts-with Ice Cream

The difficulty with modeling impact forces is in determining the nature of the force as a function of time as the rope slows the falling body through elongation and dissipation. Apparently Hook's law works well for the elongation but the model for dissipation is more complex. It's easy enough to estimate the kinetic energy just prior to impacting the anchor but what happens after that can't be analyzed analytically. It appears that there is a gradient in the strength of the snow. Theoretically angling the picket should cause it to go deeper on impact but if the upper snow is weaker it will torque and pull out. My guess is that clipping the middle is supposed to be a compromise between a picket a deadman but you're weakening the upper part of the snow by digging the groove for the cable. I wonder if clipping further down would start to even out the tendency to torque out and would encourage digging deeper instead of pulling up. A screamer won't tell you much other than that you exceeded the activation force. Too bad force gauges are expensive. You could do a series of test where you start off small and increase the speed at impact until failure. That will give you more information.

I go through a conversation like that every time the credit card company offers me life insurance on my balance.

I knew all those Vancouver hipsters were, in fact, TERRORISTS! I probably own about 10 keffiyehs.

I think there's a vague description in McLane's guidebook. From the belay before the seeping traverse you can go right at some point and then straight up the slab or maybe some kind of fault at 10a. I vaguely remember looking at it and thinking it looked doable; runout maybe. It's been a while since I was on that route. It may not even exist and I could be making it all up.

Has anyone tried the Snake crux alternative?

Wee Man as actually a pretty kick ass skater. I saw him at Warped tour one year. zQesOrkXpWg

Just climb with a tiger torch.

I'm with rob as well.

I just thought of a situation where someone else sending a route would affect my experience if I found out about it. If I thought the route was at my limit but I wasn't sure, someone sending it before me would narrow the possibilities of how hard it is and would ruin a part of the discovery process of the route. Chalk and tick marks would ruin it as well. If I didn't find out about someone sending it until after I did it wouldn't affect me.

If you can't find them you could try the Acopa JB's.

I've been reading The Rock Warriors Way so I have been thinking a lot about the ego as defined in that book. For the most part the ego inhibits. It distracts from the real focus of climbing effectively. It made me wonder how many people would send their projects if they weren't caught up in forcing everyone else to wait for them to do it or feeling some unseen pressure to do it. Seems like a lot of wasted energy. Pride and self confidence are separate from the ego in that sense.

Think of it as your art work. You clean a piece of cliff band. And where I come from that means hours upon hours of work removing moss and grass and small bushes and huge engine size blocks. This is not only dangerous but time consuming. Bolts costs money.....a drill costs money.....by the time it is ready for leading you have put 4 weekends in a row of work in and a $100 worth of hardware (including a % of the drill). In the winter you get wet and muddy and cold. All so people like you can have a crag to climb at. I personally don’t think getting the FFA on a route you put so much work into is that much to ask. It’s not all about ego……it’s a sense of accomplishment. And hopefully……just hopefully you have created a classic…… What does that have to do with someone climbing it before you? If nobody told you you'd never know. How does that affect you? How many times has someone scrubbed a crack and claimed a first ascent only to find out it was done decades ago? I've heard of many. The pride of a popular route would be enough for me.

I don't understand the ego behind the first ascent of a crag line although I've never scrubbed and bolted anything. Once it's clean, it's clean. Hopefully lots of people will climb it and it will stay that way. As long as you get to try and onsight it who cares if someone climbs it before you. If I ever clean a line feel free to have at it. Staking a claim on a section of rock is pretty pointless. Adding bolts to someone else's climb is another thing entirely.

What if Hugh finds a sugar person willing to let him sugar daddy in turn?

I always try to look at the larger weather trend is doing and interpret the numbers from environment Canada accordingly. I'm sure it's not quite as scientific as what jmace does but it's served me well so far. Besides, climbing in a light rain isn't THAT bad.

Yikes! Sounds exciting!

When we did it my partner and I clipped a water bottle and a small stuff sack with power bars and a jacket to the back of our harnesses. I found that to me much better than a pack given all the lie-backing in that climb. (Don't worry, we didn't clip the plastic cap of the Nalgene and endanger all those below)

Maybe they exclusively eat carrots. I've heard it can turn your skin orange.

The Split is straight forward and starts of as fingers widening to bigger than fist (for me). Oh the memories. I'll be back on that one later this summer to see how my climbing has progressed/regressed. There were some hangers missing from the traverse to Perry's last summer IIRC. Looks like they've been replaced.

I always like the AMC Javelin for some reason.