Le Piston

Trip: Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, and Monte Rosa - Various Date: 7/29/2005 Trip Report: Ever since my brother got me my first ice axe and introduced me to mountain climbing, one mountain above all fascinated me...the Matterhorn. In 2005 I had the funds, partner, and time off to pursue that dream. When my friend Rod and I arrived in Zermatt, the Matterhorn was in perfect climbing condition.We decided to acclimatize a bit with a climb of the Breithorn (4164 meters)We ascended the west ridge to the summit, then dropped back down and climbed the central summit (4159 meters) We had hired a guide, Larry Dolecki, to maximize our chances of success and time. We met up with him in Zermatt and decided to do another acclimatization climb of the Obergabelhorn SE ridge before trying the Matterhorn. We approached the Arben Hut via bolted ladders. We awoke to a white out storm, and retreated back to Zermatt. We waited one day, hoping the weather would improve. It would take a long spell of good weather before the Matterhorn was in shape, so we decided to climb whatever we could until then. We took the cable car to Klein Matterhorn and headed onto the Verra glacier hoping to find better weather on the Italian side of the mountains. We dropped down to the Gnifetti Hut and enjoyed the pleasures of hot food, warm beds, international company, and alcoholic beverages. The next morning dawned clear and we were treated to views towards Mont Blanc. Our next goal was to climb Liskamm (4527 meters) as a traverse going west to east and end up near Monte Rosa. We headed up to the west ridge, but high winds turned us back a few hundred feet from the west summit. We headed back and climbed Castor (4228 meters) instead. We traversed south below Liskamm and descended the Gren Glacier to the Monte Rosa hut. The next morning we awoke early with about a hundred other climbers and started climbing by headlamp. The hut is at about 2795 meters(9200 feet), and the Monte Rosa summit is 4634 meters(15,199 feet). We passed all but two parties on the glacier and soon were on the rocky west ridge. The rock was a little verglassed, but soon we were on the summit. Unfortunately, it was socked in, so we didn't get to enjoy the view. We returned to the hut, rested and hydrated, then crossed the Gorner glacier and hiked up to Gornergrat to catch the train back to Zermatt. The weather improved and gave us a nice view of both Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn (alas with new snow). We enjoyed a rest day, then headed back up to climb Pollux (4092 meters). Another storm came in and dropped another half foot of new snow, and so ended my hopes of climbing the Matterhorn on this trip. I must say I still had a great time! Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. Ear plugs and a sleeping sack for the huts. Approach Notes: From Zermatt, cable car and train access and well marked trails make approaches pretty easy. If you want to stay in the huts, make reservations...they fill up early in peak season. We were turned away from the Margherita Hut.

I third it (or whatever). It has awesome pictures.

Too bad Upstate New York and New Hampshire are so far...I used to get pretty good workouts hiking the Tuckerman Ravine trail on Mt. Washington (4.2 miles/4000 ft. elevation gain), Mt. Marcy, etc. Hiking any hills with a heavy pack will help. I hope your plans will give you a couple days to acclimatize. I usually do better spending a couple days above 6-10,000 feet before summit day. I hope the weather cooperates and you have a great trip!

Any idea how stable they are or the weight difference? I like the concept, but can already hear my wife yelling..."You already have four pairs of poles and you need another pair why?"

You can also find some nice rock climbing at the Royal Columns/Tieton.

I had one, but wasn't too impressed. If I find it in my gear horde I'll let you know.

I don't know if it is still available, but I have used the CAMP STH 245 for many years in the Cascades, Alps, and Canadian Rockies. It weighs 9 oz. and meets most, if not all of your specifications...I've really liked it for alpine climbing.

I totally agree with "The Mont Blanc Massif" and "50 Classic Climbs". I have a couple others to add..."Summit" and "To the Summit".

Another vote for the "A" series Canon. I have the G12, but never take it climbing. I use the A1200IS for climbing. I can operate it one handed, it has an optical viewfinder, as ericb points out it is nice using AA batteries (which I also use for my headlamp). It takes nice pictures and is handy clipped to my shoulder strap or harness.

Can't speak to the BD Oasis, but I have both the BD Firstlight and Skylight. The Skylight is quite roomy for two and gear, lightweight, but requires seam sealing. I've been pretty happy with mine.

I did enjoy your TR Friedrich...and appreciated the nice pictures and beta. I was unfortunately working during the stellar weather you enjoyed, gnashing my teeth and wishing I was up on Chair Peak. Glad you found a partner and had a good climb. Thanks, from a fellow wheezing geezer!

That was great! Thanks for putting those clips together. I really enjoyed seeing those.

Thanks DPS for the blog...hope you get feeling better. I'm old school and love knickers for summer climbs. I found some Ibex Schoeller fabric ones at Value Village for $10. I also found some Cloudveil soft shell pants that have snaps to roll up the legs for instant knickers (found em at Feathered Friends)...they work great.

Nice work gents. I was up there watching the sun rise without a partner (he chose to be with his girlfriend over climbing with me). The NE buttress looked good...glad someone enjoyed it. It got a bit windy later in the morning. Thanks for the TR. Took this on the hike out

Try to Google Providence Regional Medical Center Everett or www2.providence.org/northwest washington. The web site has a place "Careers"...click on that. There is a drop down screen for Career Areas, click on New Grad Nursing. It will give you the particulars (starting wages, etc) and icons for applying or getting more information. I unfortunately don't have any contacts there, but you can e-mail your information and I'm sure they'll get back to you. My first nursing job was with Providence (back in the day) and I enjoyed working for them. Good Luck! By the way, Everett isn't a bad location for climbing access in Washington.

Nick, I live nearby in Kent and "moderate" is my middle name (really it's Michael). I tend to like alpine rock and mountaineering, but will do moderate sport routes and willing to learn better ice climbing technique. I have wheels and gear, but usually only weekends free. PM me if you'd like to meet and talk over the beverage of your choice.

A lot of great pictures so far...keep em' coming. I'm sharing a couple...more good memories than great climbing shots. I had great times in the Enchantments in Fall and Dragontail/Colchuck early this year.

Another relic from my past. It's got the biner hole. I got this for $10 at an REI garage sale in the early eighties...even back then I considered it quite the deal. I only used it a few times, then was given an aluminum shaft axe by my brother for Christmas...my first step toward lighter weight climbing equipment.

Great collection of big wall hammers! I like the nice selection of kids movies too in the man cave...I'm glad I'm not the only one!

I still owe you beer from last winter...I haven't forgotten. When the ice is fat and the snow is firm I'm heading your way. By the way, you inspired me to buy some skis...just waiting to get them and learn to stay up on them. Cheers! Rick.

I think you're right about the biner hole...this is a 1940-50's era axe with a leash glide ring.

I agree with ScaredSilly on the flower. As I remember Salewa used a bird symbol (Eagle I believe). I know Edelweiss makes ropes, but don't know about ice axes. Ask Dane!

Congrats on graduating! As a fellow RN/Climber, I wish you the best of luck finding a job. I don't work at any of those hospitals mentioned (I'm at Valley Medical Center, Renton, WA), but I'll keep my ears open. Get your resume ready and keep at it!

Try Amazon.com...that's where I got my Canon (at a very good price too!)

Another vote for the Canon Powershots, though it really depends on what features you like. I have the Canon A1100 IS. Like ericb, I love the light weight, AA batteries, optical viewfinder, and good picture quality (12.1 MP). I can easily take pictures with it one handed. Good luck finding your perfect climbing/skiing camera!