el jefe

101 days climbing thus far in 2009. and i've still got two and a half weeks to add to the tally.

i'm not on facebook either, but i'm not screwed, i'm just not gonna see this tr.

i say we throw the in debtor's prison until they pay back the money. or lock them up in stocks in the public square. or both. lashes with the cat-o-9- tails, maybe?

marcus, thanks for some great days of ice in the gorge this week! looking forward to the next time.

way to get after it! petrifying wall is such a classic bit of stone.

way to go amigo!

Thank God you don’t own the site. Silencing people simply because you don’t agree with them is lame as lame gets. I don’t agree with a word that either of them write. I do however think they should have to right to say it. Heaven forbid they discuss rock climbing in a rock climbing forum. And to all the pope and raindawg bashers (me included)…..try not reading their posts, or replying. Pretty simple if you ask me. K kev, let me help you connect the dots. a discussion is this: discuss verb [ trans. ] • talk or write about (a topic) in detail, taking into account different ideas and opinions a rant is this: rant |rant| verb [ intrans. ] speak or shout at length in a wild, impassioned way : she was still ranting on about the unfairness of it all. noun a spell of ranting; a tirade : his rants against organized religion. PHRASES rant and rave: shout and complain angrily and at length. raindawg and pope don't discuss climbing ethics, they rant about sport climbing. a discussion would belong in the "rock climbing" forum, but a rant belongs in "spray". i hope this helps. jefe

discuss |disˈkəs| verb [ trans. ] • talk or write about (a topic) in detail, taking into account different ideas and opinions rant |rant| verb [ intrans. ] speak or shout at length in a wild, impassioned way : she was still ranting on about the unfairness of it all. noun a spell of ranting; a tirade : his rants against organized religion. PHRASES rant and rave: shout and complain angrily and at length.

i saw that about macleod's book, sounds like it could be interesting. also, he's actually studied exercise physiology, so should have some clue about how the human machine actually works. as for how often to train, i remember malcolm smith saying you can train 5-6 days per week and i believe paxti works out many consecutive days, sometimes all 7 days. as for me, i train something almost every day, usually up to 6 days per week. some days climbing specific stuff, some days just a long run, often 2 different things in a day. i rest when i feel tired or the day before i want to climb hard. occasionally i rest 2 days consecutively, but not very often. for me knowing when to take a day off is really important. i get a tweaked finger once in a while but it's never so bad i have to lay off climbing. i try to monitor for injuries pretty closely because i'm old and it would take a long time for anything serious to heal.

muchas gracias, off white. job well done!

thanks for the link and the pictures.

that's the spirit, plaidman! go get some!

is the rock on salish peak as clean as it looks in these photos? looks amazing.

now it works. thanks for checking.

i can't get your link to work, devo.

temps along I-84 were in the 30s today and in the teens along highway 35, so i'd be very surprised if anything up on hood NF has melted.

how come dave gets a scare bear from brainfog and i don't? guess i just have to try harder...

how come dave gets a scare bear from brainfog and i don't? guess i just have to try harder...

making excuses for you? there is no excuse for you, thunderthighs.

watts talks and raindawg goes bark, bark, bark...

this bozo not only wants to turn back the clock, he wants to institute a dress code as well.

monday through friday, dude. it's a secular religion. hey fairweather, do the women in your cult have to wear veils?

ivan, was that 5 empty chambers and one loaded, or one empty and 5 loaded?

johndavidjr, that is just guvmint propergander. you want the real truth, listen to fairweather. his posts are divinely inspired. really. god speaks directly through him. you can tell by the tone that you'll be turned into a pillow of salt if you disergree.

just because the fitness gurus are selling periodization doesn't mean it works. there's lots of theory talk here about different forms of strength, need for recovery and so on but nothing in the way of data that compares results from training using periodization and training without periodization, with the exception of the information kimmo brought in regarding the success of the bulgarian team once they dropped periodization from their program. people have been making a lot of comments regarding whether climbing is or is not comparable to olympic lifting or whether kimmo's routine is effective for a crag climber/boulderer but inadequate for an alpinist, and some of those comments perhaps have some validity. but the fact of the matter is that the efficacy of periodization as a training method for climbers has been assumed rather than proven. in addition, from what i've been able to discern, the books that talk about periodization take training programs developed for other activities (track and field usually) and then try to adapt them to climbing as if all sports were interchangeable somehow. my own experience has been that i get the best results when i go climbing a lot, and that is very different from the track athlete because a 5000m runner who only runs 5000m isn't going to perform as well as one who follows a regimen that includes speed work, etc. my feeling is that this is because climbing involves adapting to a wide number of different but similar moves requiring different applications of isometric strength titrated in such a way as to achieve a balance between tension and relaxation that is itself constantly in flux -- in short, climbing is a technique intensive activity certainly much more complicated technically than trying to run around a 400m oval a dozen or so times. physical fitness and finger-specific exercises are certainly helpful, and periodization may or may not be significant for achieving a base of general fitness (the current craze, crossfit, seems to eschew periodization in favor of randomization) but going climbing a lot is the key to improving as a climber and going climbing on rock is, in my experience, way more effective than going climbing on plastic.