el jefe

interesting post. you must be truly new to climbing if you think you can earn your bones by offering to chop someone else's route.

mt hood meadows opens tomorrow, which i think is an early opening for them. seems they usually want to be open before thanksgiving but don't always have enough snow. what happened to the predicted el nino this year?

hmm... and i thought the beaconfanatics were weird when it came to climbing in the rain. looks like there's a seattle contingent of loonies as well!

off, i stand corrected. sounds like even billcoe knows you got to go farther than beacon to climb at this time of year!

dorianlee is right, 30% is pretty low probability of precip at smith, and mid 40s is great temp for getting way cranked on the radical gnarly tinies.

last of the good weather for those who think the road ends at beacon rock.

can't say i have any experience with gri gris in the extreme wet because i don't go climbing on rainy days. smith was dry and beautiful blue sky most of saturday. you boys need to look at expanding your carbon footprints -- although given the number of plastic garbage sacks you were using, the tradeoff for the environment would probably be a break even deal ay worst.

Seriously? Someone has scribbled arrows...as in directions of travel? Wow, I didn't realize that route required route finding skills. I'm blaming the detours..... Whenever i see a chalk arrow drawn on a route i usually add as many as three more originating from the same spot as the original arrow - one in each direction especially when i am at smiff... this post should win lameasskenny the shithead of the month award here at cc.com.

sounds like the goats are getting more aggressive. "either let us chew on your packstraps or we'll trundle rocks on you" seems to be the clear message here. i say we stand firm and not give in to terrorist threats. appeasing them will only make them bolder and more demanding.

nice views of the tumwater from up there. very scenic with the fall colors. good job getting out, telemarker.

so the "loose stuff" is stabilizing the other loose stuff thus keeping the whole shit pile from falling down? maybe we need to get a gang of people together to search the bushes below the ledge, find the rocks that have fallen off/were pulled off and put them back. the trains are an interesting point, too. what are the people at index doing to keep trains from making the lower town wall crumble into oblivion? maybe they got some secret trick we need to start using to keep beacon from falling apart. honestly, i get the point about the anchor be meddled with, but it is in the nature of "loose stuff" to come off, especially on heavily travelled routes. gravity is a relentless foe.

i also appreciate joseph's efforts, but was just wondering what "reason" there might be for leaving "loose stuff" on a heavily travelled route?

you're right, donny is the other guy.

sounds like people are starting to get into their rainy day routines...

gotta go with donny on this one.

if you are using the gear to protect an ascent but climb on the rock, that's free climbing. if you use the gear in order to ascend, then that's aid. the scenario proposed at the outset of this thread clearly sounds like aid to me.

thailand or new zealand. hard to think of a good place for rock klettering in the states in january.

you definitely made good use of your summer. beautiful.

best TR i've seen in ages!

alright, well this hardly sounds insane - good luck getting the funding though, as you know pbs makes the conservos insane - i don't see the need to break up fox or any other current news provider however, but taxing mega-corps to help fund your more public channels might work - the current lineup of pbs shows already has a # of snoozers though, so it'd be challenging to find much of quality to fill the time - seems like it'd mostly be wayne's world knock-offs ivan, taxing mega-corps simply isn't an option and you know that. corporations and wealthy individuals are extremely delicate and fragile entities and raising their tax rates might make it difficult for them to purchase the congressmen and senators necessary to sustain their existence. if this sort of pie-in-the-sky democracy shit is going to be paid for, then we are going to have to do it with spending cuts...just remember that defense spending is off limits...

your impression is correct, off. i've been there and you couldn't possibly z-clip on any of the routes i climbed. in addition, many ended with runouts on slippery. thin moves, so significant air time was always a possibility (and occasional actuality). very engaging routes, to be sure. now someone cue pope and brainfog. here's where the "but all bolts are evil" chorus is comes in...

gotta say that layton was right on with this post: "Whoever took the time to do this could have spent the same amount of time cleaning up garbage, helping the homeless, volunteering at shelters, etc etc etc. Jesus, find something better to do with your free time. At least clean up an old aid route or something worthwhile. If you think this crag is stupid and easy, then why bother with it at all? I don't enjoy sport climbing easier route that much, but I know a lot of people who do. Are they lesser people?"

love that panorama shot!

fairweather's posts come with a content-free guarantee.

if i understand his position, i think he's saying that free speech is not really possible in a world where massive corporations take up most of the bandwidth - in this sense then, he would see himself as a protector and advocate of free speech in calling for the government to silience the deafening roar of the big boys. "Oh my England that free speech without free radio speech is as zero and but one point needed for Stalin"