el jefe

nice photos. sunday was pretty dreamy conditions there, rock cold and dry but t shirts in the sun.

it appears young atreides was abducted by aliens (or was it moolackians?), leaving only his contribution to the climbing communnity in place of his earlier posts. except for one last epithet, all evidence of his existence has been removed from this world... now its off to smith rocks for me (where did i leave my spandex and quick draws?). there's not much chance the moolacks will grant me entry into their new yosemite. i'm just going to have to make do with the tired old tuff...

good luck finding moolack, young atreides, that boltless nirvana where only the pure of heart may gain access. may you, too, prove worthy of earning the trust of the initiated and learn the secret handshake that gains you entry into that blessed place.

it doesn't matter to you because you are an asshole who naively thinks he'll earn cred with the moolackers if he offers to chop a route at flagstone. i have teenage kids who have a more mature approach to the world than you do.

dude, you aren't just a noob but a tool as well.

i haven't been to flagstone but that doesn't matter, either. the route offends you, that's clear, but what isn't clear is why you have a right to chop it just because you don't approve. why are you right and they are wrong? you assert that "someone else most likely climbed those routes before the bolt ladders for midgets were installed", but you are just talking out of your ass if you can't tell us who this someone is and when they did the route. those routes have been around for a long time and the local community has made peace with them or they already would have been chopped. now you come along and presume for some reason that it is your job to set things right? i call that highly presumptuous of you.

interesting post. you must be truly new to climbing if you think you can earn your bones by offering to chop someone else's route.

mt hood meadows opens tomorrow, which i think is an early opening for them. seems they usually want to be open before thanksgiving but don't always have enough snow. what happened to the predicted el nino this year?

hmm... and i thought the beaconfanatics were weird when it came to climbing in the rain. looks like there's a seattle contingent of loonies as well!

off, i stand corrected. sounds like even billcoe knows you got to go farther than beacon to climb at this time of year!

dorianlee is right, 30% is pretty low probability of precip at smith, and mid 40s is great temp for getting way cranked on the radical gnarly tinies.

last of the good weather for those who think the road ends at beacon rock.

can't say i have any experience with gri gris in the extreme wet because i don't go climbing on rainy days. smith was dry and beautiful blue sky most of saturday. you boys need to look at expanding your carbon footprints -- although given the number of plastic garbage sacks you were using, the tradeoff for the environment would probably be a break even deal ay worst.

Seriously? Someone has scribbled arrows...as in directions of travel? Wow, I didn't realize that route required route finding skills. I'm blaming the detours..... Whenever i see a chalk arrow drawn on a route i usually add as many as three more originating from the same spot as the original arrow - one in each direction especially when i am at smiff... this post should win lameasskenny the shithead of the month award here at cc.com.

sounds like the goats are getting more aggressive. "either let us chew on your packstraps or we'll trundle rocks on you" seems to be the clear message here. i say we stand firm and not give in to terrorist threats. appeasing them will only make them bolder and more demanding.

nice views of the tumwater from up there. very scenic with the fall colors. good job getting out, telemarker.

so the "loose stuff" is stabilizing the other loose stuff thus keeping the whole shit pile from falling down? maybe we need to get a gang of people together to search the bushes below the ledge, find the rocks that have fallen off/were pulled off and put them back. the trains are an interesting point, too. what are the people at index doing to keep trains from making the lower town wall crumble into oblivion? maybe they got some secret trick we need to start using to keep beacon from falling apart. honestly, i get the point about the anchor be meddled with, but it is in the nature of "loose stuff" to come off, especially on heavily travelled routes. gravity is a relentless foe.

i also appreciate joseph's efforts, but was just wondering what "reason" there might be for leaving "loose stuff" on a heavily travelled route?

you're right, donny is the other guy.

sounds like people are starting to get into their rainy day routines...

gotta go with donny on this one.

if you are using the gear to protect an ascent but climb on the rock, that's free climbing. if you use the gear in order to ascend, then that's aid. the scenario proposed at the outset of this thread clearly sounds like aid to me.

thailand or new zealand. hard to think of a good place for rock klettering in the states in january.

pm sent

you definitely made good use of your summer. beautiful.