kevino

That is actually what I was referring to. One could easily descend that whole face on the snow or walk down one of the rock fingers, cross about 15-20 ft of snow and get back on another rock/dirt band. My partner and I just had tennis shoes, so we took the later option.

Snow was soft on the descent by the afternoon. We avoided all the snow except for about 15 ft to connect two rock bands. You can traverse from the summit to false summit no problem.

Came across this... http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new-scarpa-techno-worth-the-wait/108259559

Sounds like he made it out via helicopter, but not much else known at this point. http://pro.kpq-am.tritonflex.com/common/more.php?m=15&r=1&item_id=2271

From sunday on stuart, snow was firm in the morning soft in the afternoon, didn't need more than tennis shoes in the afternoon. Additionally, there are several ways off dragontail without having to touch much snow, if any, if you need to.

Yes they are Intuition made. Call Intuition and get their advice on which liner would be best for you, especially in regards to the model type and volume of liner.

This is terrible. There were four groups of us climbing the north ridge yesterday. My partner and I were the ascending longs pass when we looked at the south face of stuart and saw headlamps in both Ulrich's and the Cascadian. We thought we were just sleep deprived when we saw a headlamp moving way too fast down ulrichs... Most importantly hope the climber and group makes it out safe. Best wishes.

This was the best mantel all route!

Some great info up there...I emailed a local guide and he sent me some info. Thought I'd post it here if anyone else wants it: Here are a few suggestions: You could climb at Kila. Forty minutes south of Whitefish. There are a few dozen routes on shale rock. Mostly sport climbing. There is a small guide book to the area. You could climb at Stryker (also called Marston, or Stillwater Canyon). Forty minutes north of Whitefish. There are a few dozen routes. Mostly sport climbing. There is a one page guide sheet to the area. You could climb at Stone Hill. Eighty minutes northwest of Whitefish. There are a few hundred routes. Some sport and some trad on quartzite rock. There is a guidebook for the area. You could also climb at Lost Wall. Twenty minutes from Whitefish. There are just a couple of routes; but one is an excellent trad. crack climb. It can be done as one or two pitches. There is a one page sheet with direction to the Lost Wall area. All above guide books/guide sheets/maps can be found at Rocky Mountain Outfitters (RMO) in Kalispell, Montana. I believe they also have a guide book to climbing in Glacier Park where you might find some Alpine adventures. Plus they can give you some beta about some new sport climbing routes in the Point of Rocks area north of Whitefish. If you want serious multi-pitch trad or sport routes, you may want to head a few hours south to the Bitterroots near Missoula. Good climbing. Cheers, Link

Looking for some strap on 'pons...camp 490s, BD neve or grivel air tech. Something of that nature. 1+ lb and universal attachment. What do you have laying around the gear closet? Thanks.

See you up there Rad! For what its worth, my partner and I aren't bringing pons or axe. As Jens said, you can avoid stuart glacier if needed.

I used the technos for a couple years, really liked them for alpine rock, long days, etc. I picked up some five ten shoes and they're good but are lined and get super stinky and warm! I looked at scarpa's website and didn't really find anything that looked like a good replacement, and I can't really justify spending $140 on la sportiva mythos. Any suggestions for your favorite alpine rock shoe? Unlined, not downturned...

Wondering if any of you have climbed this route...called the south face of west ridge in the brown beckey. Despite the long slog I find myself wanting to get back up there on the south face. I believe this is the start dead center in the photo

Beautiful. Thank you!

Maybe it was the eye of the mosquito hurricane?? Bugs sucked, the climbing and views were as good as ever!

Updated...they are terrible!!

Thanks for the info guys. Def will check out Stone Hill. Pete, I spent 5 days in the missions this spring. Really cool, hope to get back there again. Are there any worthwhile published guidebooks for climbing or backcountry skiing?

Moving in September for school...will be there thru the end of January. If anyone has good advice about the living, hiking, running, skiing, climbing, etc I'd love to hear it! If anyone has friends/family in the area that has livable space to rent out, that would be awesome! Thanks in advance.

Looking to do a moderate alpine rock route sometime this week, tues thru friday. I hike fast and climb safely. Let me know if you got something in mind. I'm based in redmond currently.

Only if you're not moving. At least that is what I found the last couple days..DEET is your friend!

Thanks for the response. I realize I didn't separate my questions appropriately. The raps vs down climb was in reference to the rock climb, not the couloir.

hmmm...couloir looks skiable? are raps mandatory or is it an easy down climb?

Just curious if anyone has a conditions report or pictures of the quien sabe glacier en route to sahale. gracias.

can i come skiing with you so i can get my glamour shot taken? thanks the for the TR

6/9 UPDATE snow is soft, schrund is totally crossable