mountainsloth

from my experience in ozette, the beach rock is crumbly shit... it might be different a bit north

yea, maybe not as classic, but i liked the middle pitches with the small corner and the short but sweet curving flake. glad to motivate!

Just wanted to give a shout out to this climb, 6 pitches 5.10a. If you like Silent Running and Total soul, go back for Revolver. the book says to traverse from the 2nd bolt after the first set of anchors of silent running, but i found the direct start just as easy although a little dirty. I found 3 gear placements and stretched the rope till its end to reach the anchors. *Bring a 3/8 and maybe a 1/2 wrench! many of the new bolts are loose!* all in all, a great route and deserves the same props as the neighboring climbs. The last pitch is the only 5.10 pitch and has two tricky slab moves. Darrington rules!

excellent use of time!

know your range at a crag and climb under it in the alpine. Ratings are guidelines not set in stone.

we seem to have shared the eastside without knowing it. nice job!looks like a great route. how steep was the headwall?

flowers picked just for you! to be honest, I have no idea.

Trip: Mt. Baker - Boulder Glacier Date: 7/19/2009 Trip Report: Sweet overnight trip to the less traveled side of Baker. We saw two parties leaving on Saturday and no one else on the East side for the rest of the trip. We followed boulder ridge for most of the way considering what the rest of the glacier looked like. The route finding is stimulating and the crevasse bridges are pretty close to melted out. We ended up weaving long zig-zags around many of the crevasses in order to make the route work. It would be a tricky ascent for anyone thinking of it later in the summer. On the summit we were greeted by the hordes conga-lining it up the Easton and hastily retreated to our own side of the mountain. I cannot say enough about the greatness of this route. The hike in through old growth hemlock, exciting route finding, steepness, exposure, gorgeous views of Shuksan and the entire North Cascade range, and not another soul on the route on a perfect summer weekend! Astounding! I guess there is safety in numbers on the Easton, and no one wants 8000 vert. It just goes to show you there is a slice of cascade wonderment for all with a little effort, even on the most popular peaks. Heavily crevassed lower section of the Boulder glacier Sunrise Shuksan sunrise Working up the ridge Summit Crater. Can you see the conga-line up the Easton? This kind of says it all Camp flowered ridge to ice-capped summit and back Gear Notes: standard glacier gear Approach Notes: Boulder ridge trail, through the bog of eternal stench, up the class 3 cliff, follow the ridge, dodge the crevasses

I stared at that face for days from boston basin hoping to one day give one of the many routes up it a try. nice work on the solo. how bad was the rock?

one of my favorite moderate alpine climbs to date. Just a perfect setting with a wide variety of climbing and no one around. way to get it guys!

i hear that drinking before the alpine is a great new way to challenge yourself in the mountains. 5.10 alpine is just too easy now a days solid work fellas!

OK lets sum up so we can stop the bitching.... -Minimize shit left in the wilderness by making good decisions and picking up after others -People do strange things in the mountains -De-gumbifying one's self takes time... we've all been there -Cascade climber's forums are often bitch-fests (myself not excluded)

I second the motion, Kevbone your crap is not wanted here.

and that's why slab climbing makes me feel safer than vertical. You may lose some skin, but you probably won't break anything important.

cool climb! certainly cannot beat the ambiance of MRNP! biking down must have been a blast!

Thanks for enlightening us Todd, but sorry you got involved :)I'd still climb with you guys anytime.

Todd, I know you did not personally rap the route, but WTF! he backed up the anchor with yet another piece of webbing! Honestly, I inspected all 3 pieces of webbing and would have personally taken whippers on any one of them. If I was smart and brought a knife up to the anchor I would have removed them all. A fourth piece is severely over-doing it. Anyway, you guys climbed with us in style and never sent anything down on us, so I really can't give you any crap. Keep climbing, and help minimize the garbage we leave in the wilderness.

Holy sweet baby Jesus! That almost gave me the shits I was laughing so hard! Truly Awesome! So that solves one mystery, but there is still one other to figure out... There is an anchor up there with 3 pieces of webbing! I know this because on the way up the pass I noticed there WAS a single strand of rope dangling down the cliff as an emergency rap. I found it to be god awful looking and decided if it was still there when we came back down two days later that I would retrieve it. Sure enough it was still there on the return so I scrambled up there to set it free. Turns out the rope had to have been up there for at least a year because the bottom half of the rope was buried under a massive amount of snow, so much that I could not excavate it. So its still up there piled up at the base of the cliff if any good Samaritan wants to bring it down and throw it away. It is sun-baked to shit and quite weather worn.

does anyone know why someone would be rapping down a 50 ft cliff in the lower section of asgard pass in the middle of 2 perfectly negotiable paths on either side? During my trip out there we saw a guy rappelling all by himself down this tiny bit of rock! WTF? Turns out there are rap anchors on top! its the small cliff right below the trees in the middle of the pass. this is a closer look at the cliff from the climber's left hand side. Thoughts?

truly a fantastic trip! Its been on my list for a long time. Way to get it done! No camping at Whatcom Pass? There are camp sites there, did the rangers give a reason why? I know a company that guides a backpacking trip out there and camps at whatcom pass every year!

3 sets of large testicles = awesome new route! Way to make my TR reading interesting!

sickness!!! quality pick of mtn and route.

your ability to find and photograph excellent specimens of nature astound me! way to capture the smaller beauty of the cascades!

I'll keep that in mind Jimbo Hampster. Haven't made it out there yet this year and I am itching all over!

Yikes! This is a perfect reason why doing the Conga in the mountains is a bad idea. What a mess! Glad to hear all are safe.