ColinB

Managed to dust off the login and come back to CC... Also, I did a WEMT course a million years ago before medical school so I'm biased WEMT > WFR > WFA, hands down. But it also depends what you are looking to contribute on climbs/bigger trips. As you get more training you get a better idea of sick/not sick, when to bail due to injury/illness, and how to manage the patient/your partner on the way to better care or a flight out of whatever hellhole you've got yourself in. WFR (and WEMT) training will also help you communicate much better with the rescue teams and convey appropriate & important information that can help the decide between ground or air help, resources needed, etc. TLDR: If you can afford the time and money, get WFR. Knowledge is power.

Fackin' a. Strong work.

Canadian Rockies is usually pretty solid that time of year. Had one of my best trips up there in late March (spring break as well). Things are usually fat and the temps moderate. You can definitely get skunked by the avy conditions but there should still be some protected stuff to keep you busy.

Climbed Crown Jewel this morning (those were our headlamps). Wet and thin but protected with 10s and 13s. There was another team lined up behind as we rapped off. Not sure how long its gonna be in but the second pitch was in decent shape.

Anyone snapped any photos of I Rock from Timberline recently? Would love to see how icy its getting. Thanks in advance!

f-ing baller boys. Thanks for posting this up. Inspires us desk jockeys to keep at it.

Pretty sure you just need to deadlift more.

Let us know when/where we can throw down to celebrate, Bill! Glad to have you back in the PNW.

I'm a big fan of the Skylight for everything except routes where you're chopping a ledge. I'm 6' 3" and the extra room is a lifesaver.

Truth. I loved my Vipers, replaced them with Quarks, hated the Quarks and switched to Nomics instead. I still kinda miss the swing of the Vipers but Nomics are amazing otherwise.

Strong work! Can't wait to see some more photos of the route.

Yeah, the Reid is a great route to solo once you're familiar with that side of the mountain. Helps to have a bit more snow filling in the glacier though...

Oregon High by Jeff Thomas is the book. Out of print, but Powell's usually has a copy or two. If you're in Portland, you're welcome to borrow my copy.

Some great gloves from Rab and MHW as well. The newer BD Punishers I've bought have fallen apart in <10 days...

Yeah it was. Stuff on the lower tier was getting climbed today as well.

Starvin Marvin got climbed today. Super thin...

Water, it looks like the file didn't upload here. Any chance you could shoot it over to me at colin.bohannan@gmail.com ? Definitely appreciate it!

Hrm, doesn't look like that one will work. Any chance anyone else has a high res photo floating around?

Scratching up Illumination Rock yesterday. Plenty of ice up there!

Thanks Ben! I just shot you an email. If that works, I'll definitely get a topo up on here for folks to use.

Does anyone have a good photo of the north side of Illumination Rock (backside from Timberline) that I could use for a topo of the routes over there? The only photo I have is 2/3rds of the face and missing some of the routes up there. Not exactly common to have folks standing in the middle of the Reid Glacier, but maybe? Let me know and I'd be happy to get you some beers as a thank you.

Anyone that's been up on Hood in the last week have any photos of Illumination Rock?

Definitely a fan of the Phantom Guide myself. If they fit, they're a solid boot for all the ice/mixed/single-day alpine you want in the lower 48. After spending last winter climbing in some Phantom 6ks (gross and sweaty down here...), the Guides are super solid. I'm a big fan on the integrated gaiters in the Guide and Batura. Works well when coupled with some shock cord & grommets on your pants. The Guides aren't the most comfortable for long approaches but they climb really well (precise and sensitive) and are low volume boots.

I used to climb in a Gamma MX. Way too warm for most stuff in the PNW (at least for me). I climb in a R1/Black Spider Hoody and a windshirt most of the time now. If its super chilly or windy I'll toss on a barebones softshell over it (currently use NW Alpine's softshell). The windshirts can't handle lots of rock but are usually good at shedding snow. YMMV

I've climbed on both the Mammuts and the Sterling Photons. Both are solid ropes, though I'm still slightly nervous on mixed terrain with <8 mm ropes...