ColinB

Time for a weapons upgrade. New model BD Vipers with Titan picks and micro hammers. Come with a micro adze, 2 well-used spare Titan picks, and 2 lightly used Laser picks. Taped upper grips for insulation/grip but could use a good retaping before the season. Some dings and nicks on the plastic grip from mixed climbing. Great all-around tools, these have seen plenty of good days out last winter. Asking $375 for the whole kit, buyer pays shipping (if not local). SOLD! Drop me a line at colin.bohannan(at)gmail.com

Same drug bust? Bears protecting the drugz

More importantly, when is the summit espresso stand opening?

Yeah but these people are from a fictional book. You might as well quote characters from Lord of the rings. Does that make the Egyptians the orcs?

Source?

If you can move to Seattle/Leavenworth/E-burg/Everett, there's no reason to move to Portland. Much better climbing up north and better access. The secret to good Portland climbing is that the drive to Washington isn't that bad. Even Beacon is in Washington...

Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - Scarface (III, 5.10+) Date: 8/15/2010 Trip Report: On Sunday, Nate F. and I climbed up the highly visible rock scar on CBR. We believe that we climbed a new route several hundred feet to the right of the old NW Buttress line. However, we might have connected with that terrain higher up for the last couple moderate pitches. If the NW Buttress did indeed go straight through the rock scar , we probably still climbed new terrain as what rock was there is now hanging out in the meadow 1000 ft below. The 2nd pitch was the highlight of the route for me with a sustained steep handcrack and awesome exposure. The rock scar was mostly clean with some loose blocks on the ledges still from the rock fall. Nate on the 3rd pitch. Slab on the 4th pitch. Topo of the route. Stewart's Photo with the route added. Gear Notes: RPs, 2x #2 TCU - #3 BD, 1x #00 TCU & #4 BD Approach Notes: 'schwhack.

Helmet and rock shoes sold. Puffy and boots still up.

PMed on the helmet.

Also for sale, Scarpa Technos, Size 46.5 - $50 Used about 10 days, little wear and tear on the rubber. Don't fit me as well as I hoped. Everything else is still for sale too, make me an offer!

The new Petzl Quarks are really really nice. Sliding trigger lets you plunge away and match on more vertical stuff. A lot of hard alpine routes got put up on the old quarks and they still climb the moderate stuff well. Here's a link: http://petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/ice-axes/ice-climbing-tools/quark

I second going up to Anthony Lakes. Lots of fun mellow multi-pitch granite. Some of it is a bit loose, but there's fun to be had.

*bump* Still around.

*bump* Make me an offer on this stuff. It'll fund my new ice tools this fall.

Scarpa Charmoz Size 46 - $125 Great boots, used them on and off over the last 2 years, but I'm really a size 47 and my toes don't like the abuse. Petzl Ecrin Roc - $30 Still keeps your brain intact and now comes with a free set of scratches and scuff marks to prove you're a burly alpinist. Wild Things Hooded Puffy Size Large - $60 Precursor to the EP Hooded Jacket with EPIC fabric and Primaloft insulation. Its got some stains on the back of the hood and the back of one arm, so you'll not pass the Euro Fashion test but it still keeps you warm. Hopefully you have matching pants and will put up winter climbing TRs with the combo. Buyer pays shipping, locals get first dibs.

I'm going to be in Leavenworth from June 14th till July 9th with weekends and evenings free to climb. I'd love to hook up with some locals for evening climbing sessions and weekend alpine climbing. I lead 5.9/low .10s, got a rack/rope(s)/vehicle/social skills/beer drinking abilities, etc. Shoot me a PM or email at colin.bohannan(at)gmail(dot)com if this sounds like a match.

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I second fenderfour on that one. Humphumphump. Plus when I climbed it, my partner found someone else's older #4 lying at the bottom of the bearhug pitch which was kickass considering our rack only went to #3...

Julian, I'd be the BS is still in what with the melt-thaw cycle that's been going on. It'd be worth a hike up there for sure. Also, things on the N side of Illumination Rock are most likely in great condition for some mixed cragging. You might see me up there this weekend.

I totally read bridge troll and was severely let down until ScottP posted this. Trolls not tolls?

Kickass, John. Glad to finally see the TR! Looks like you two had a blast up there.

Sorry to hear about your accident Kenny. I've had one major accident climbing (broken talus & dislocated ankle) that resulted in 6 months of crutches and another 6 months of physical therapy. I still have metal in me, don't have full range of motion, and have a great excuse to not lead shitty slab pitches. Doctors and physical therapists were great, though I found that it was a lot easier/more fun to follow how my ankle was feeling day to day instead of their general advice. Started TRing ice 3 months into my PT (9 months after the accident), but it took about a year and a half before I could be on the ball rock climbing. I still have a lingering weakness in my ankle that becomes a bitch when climbing slabs or a lot of 35 degree ice. During recovery, I found that even the little things that involved pushing myself were the best way to stay sane. Same went for mellow camping trips where I could do the approach on crutches. Anything that involved the mental and spiritual sides of climbing kept my spirits up. Meditation can help, but only if you're actually interested in it. I also drank a lot (it was winter in the PNW) and managed to be a stupid teenager as much as possible on crutches. Anything to get your kicks in. Just remember that these things pass and in the meantime pick up a less intensive hobby or activity instead of obsessing over the climbing you'll do when you're better. Hope you get back in action soon. We'll have to get some climbing in once Beacon opens up again. I'm down to bring a pony keg up to the tree ledge.

d00d, this post is from 2009...

I'm curious to hear if anyone here has had the discipline to time GU shots (like Twight's one per 30 minutes of climbing, on a watch timer) while climbing as opposed to using while running a race where the environment is much more heavily controlled. Perhaps the blood sugar issues are from waiting until you are seriously hypoglycemic to eat a GU. The few times I believe I've been able to maintain proper blood sugar levels constantly did make a difference, even for my poorly-trained n00b ass. Similarly, Twight seemed to explain GU as a tool that got you between actual meals where you were setting up camp/bivy and could properly ingest food, not as a substitute for "real" food.

I was thinking the same Dane, but this is a protein/carbs/fat mix as opposed to just amino acids and maltodextrin thats in Gu. Pretty much something is food, or it isn't Not true at all. Haven't you seen the KFC Double Down? Distinctly not food.