ColinB

I can promise you that at least 80% of the rock on Illumination stays in place. And none of this bolt-ripping-out-falling-on-my-ass shenanagins. It'd be good fun to scratch up some stuff in Oregon soon! Maybe on less chossy chosspiles?

Sounds like some full value climbing! Glad things worked out well. Hopefully you kept what was left of the bolts as a keepsake.

In Cody it helps to have two ropes for some of the raps (saves time making v-threads) but you can always get a tag line for rappels and make the 2nd carry it. Since you live in Bozeman, might as well get something that works for 90% of the climbing you'll do.

Not sure if anyone will actually get up there and enjoy the excellent mixed climbing on Illumination Rock but it's in fantastic condition right now. I was up there in early December and it hasn't iced up too much since then. As of yesterday, there are good sticks in the snice and good gear (mostly cams) in the cracks. The cracks aren't filled with much snow or ice, so gear is pretty straight forward. We climbed the first pitch of one of pdk's climbs (to climbers' left of the left-most skylight) and tried to shoot straight up to the summit from there. Some glassy offwidth climbing shut me down about 30 m from the summit block. Hope some of you folks take advantage of the conditions soon!

Thanks for the offer Graham. It'd be great to climb on one before having o make up my mind.

Thanks for all the feedback folks. Mammut ropes have been good to me so far.

Belay jacket and XL Alibis sold. Larges still for sale.

I'm shopping for something in the range of 8.9-9.2 mm with a low impact force. Looks like the market is Mammut, Sterling, and Tendon. Any preferences between them? I've only climbed on the 8.9 mm Mammut single and liked it. Tendon ropes sound pretty amazing but I don't know if you can get their 9.2 mm single over in the USA yet.

Check out NW Alpine and their hoodies. They've got one that's about the same weight at an R1 and one that's lighter for summer stuff/warmer people.

I've got two pairs of OR Alibi gloves, a red pair in large and a black pair in extra-large. The red pair has seen some climbing and has some fraying on a couple of the finger tips. The black pair is like-new. Asking $20 bucks for the larges and $25 bucks for the XLs. I've also got an XL Wild Things belay jacket. Seen plenty of use and has minor stains on the arms, but is still toasty and has lots of life left. Too big for me these days. Asking $40. Easiest to pick up in Portland or we can figure out shipping ($5?) Email at colin.bohannan@gmail.com

What about a cheaper modern double boot like the La Sportiva Baruntse? Quite a bit cheaper than Spantiks and should climb well enough for the routes you have in mind.

Bump, still looking.

I'm looking for a pair in decent condition and hopefully somewhat cheap. Let me know what you got!

Cilogear 30 for most 1 day climbs. Cilogear 45 if you have to hump in a bunch of aid gear or are going in for a few days. They both climb really well and carry well on the hike in. That said, if you're just getting started any decent 30-40 liter pack designed for being worn while climbing will get you by, some just make the process suck less.

If John doesn't want them, I'll take them.

I've clocked in a whole 3 days on these tools and can't justify keeping a second pair around. Picks in great shape, pounded a couple pins, and that's been about it. Asking $375 shipped. Email at colin.bohannan(at)gmail.com or PM me here.

PM sent on alibis.

Jacket found! Thanks.

I'm looking for a size medium in any color. Stains/repairs don't matter as long as its still warm as hell. Let me know what ya got! PM or email at colin.bohannan(at)gmail.com.

1 screw is sold, 1 is for sale still.

I've got two BD Express screws (the newer ones with the double clip-in) that I hardly use. 19 cm long and only placed 1-2 times. I mostly stick with my 13s and 16s. Asking $35 each, buyer pays shipping if not a local. Feel free to email me at colin.bohannan@gmail.com and I'll get some pictures up when I get off shift.

I got the same form letter as John. No set date from Petzl.

Thanks for the beta, both of you!

I was wondering if anyone has the GPS waypoints for the turn off to the Ice Cliff Glacier on Stuart that they don't mind sharing with me. Thanks in advance!

Damn, bummer to hear that bird boning wins over summertime climbing. Looks like some chossy & mossy fun over on the north side maybe I'll have to giver a look...