tvashtarkatena

While we're on the subject; 2 people will also have great difficulty Z pulleying a 3rd out unless they are very strong and/or their system has a favorable setup (rope not buried in lip to badly, etc). A double Z pulley gives 2 pullers more advantage, but few parties carry that many pulleys. Adding a 3rd person to a party doesn't add as much security as one might think. Get out there and try the stuff out.

Point well taken. It just sounded hurtful, you know, it being Valentine's Day and all. I agree that it's best to learn established practices on regular gear before 'innovating'. My ideas were more for possible future experimentation for the poster. Any natural deadman, rock, stick, or dried carcas, must be carefully chosen for the task of course. I mention some of these old school tricks to newbies because it gives them more options when they find themselves without certain gear. Rapping over a schrund or moat is one example that's more likely than a crevasse rescue assuming proper probing and terrain reading are being practiced. By way of example, being able to properly deadman and rap off a rock has proven to be invaluable for me on several occasions, particularly on circumnavigations or traverses where you're not sure what you'll encounter on the way down because you haven't been there. Last year I lead a rock pitch entirely on slung chockstones, then rapped off of two deadmanned rocks (short rope) during a ski traverse. Gear required? nothing but webbing. Life would have become quite a bit more difficult without those little non-gear dependent tricks.

zeelution.

BTW, here's way more than you ever wanted to know about placing pickets (or any other object used as a deadman if you generalize the principles) Snow Anchors

Yeah, well, we've all taught crevasse rescue (for 7 years in my case). It's pretty easy to call certain practices ridiculous on the internet without having any experience with them or stating why, but it doesn't help the original poster much with his inquiry. Bad form, brah. I've tried all of these anchors, and they all work just fine. I've been climbing for 25 years, and I've never taken pickets just for crevasse rescue, but everyone needs to figure out what works for them. That's what this forum is for; an exchange of ideas. Some people are uncomfortable with some of the newer (actually, mine are very OLD) ideas, and that's understandable.

What? We're already loaning ourselves money. Don't cry for me, Argentina.

Nah. Hillary has stated that she'll withdraw within a year. There's very little difference between her and Obama's stated position here.

Snow anchors for glacier rescue are really for the descent when conditions warm up and there is more of a chance of poor snow conditions causing a slip (although, with enough experience, this shouldn't happen). So, how does a team avoid lugging pickets along? Ski pole: A ski pole makes a good deadman if placed properly, is lighter than a picket, and makes for a more efficient ascent/descent when your buddy isn't flailing in a crevasse. Long, flat rock: carried on the descent and only through the necessary sections. Or just put one in your partner's pack for fun. Sticks: Grab at tree line, toss at tree line.

It's a nervous tick, an addiction, Bug. As an ankle biter, the poor guy can no longer help himself.

Beautiful. Thanks.

Very.

And who the fuck are you, troll?

You'd have a better discussion with someone else. You've incorrectly summarized my views on private property, which I never really shared in any detail, but in any case, private property issues don't interest me that much. I'm not your guy. And from your statements, you obviously know very little about the ACLU. As for any of my views, like most people's, they're complex and often dynamic. Surprise.

And taking quotes out of context isn't helping you connect any better, either. They're not relevant to this particular exchange.

The 'c' word doesn't bother me. What bothers me is that you assume to know what my views on any subject are without asking. That's not a conversation, so I chose not to respond.

Oh. I thought Valentine's Day had been cancelled.

finding something about my post to be offended about is a reason to avoid the intellectual content? brilliant! If you're really interested in proper discourse, ask properly next time.

but you DO need God and an afterlife to have a fulfilling afterlife! haha! I'll let you worry about that. I'm busy with this one, thanks.

Don Corleone was not so circumspect: "Some men go through life begging to be killed."

Hate? I don't think so, but there are a handful of avatars on this site I believe are beyond simple contempt. Why hide it? Why should I sit back and take insults without responding well beyond what you consider in-kind. I see Tvashtarketena is chiming in too, but I can't see any of his bile--I have had him on "ignore" for about a month. I'm sure his spew meets the balanced and civil standards you apply when meting out your admonishments. If losing the respect of people I don't know (like you) is the price I have to pay for jumping into the mud with pigs like Tvashtarketena and Maylou, well, regrettably, I'll just have to live with myself. Mister P can get my blood boiling, but beyond party politics, I know we share at least small pieces of common ground. There is no such common ground with Marytarkeloutena, and I am happy to take the gloves off. They deserve whatever replies they get--and I'm not the only one they piss off on a set schedule. Sorry I offended your delicate sensibilities. (Not). Tecumseh Sherman and Curtis Lemay would approve of my spray. Well, just for fun, let's take a look at your standards versus mine, Fairweather. You attack people's TRs. I don't. You regularly use personal health conditions of individuals on this site to insult at a personal level (and no, I'm not referring to myself); I don't. You're attacks make no attempt at humor; they are meant to be wholly personal and below the belt; mine are not. You regularly make ridiculous and embarrassing feaux legal threats against individuals on this site; nuff said. You actively seek personal information about people on this site for the sole purpose of providing ammunition for personal attacks; I don't. You make little to no attempt to meet others on this site, either socially or for the purposes of climbing; I do. You refuse to break bread with your 'enemies'; I do not. You presume to 'know' people without ever having met them; I do not. And finally, you take this way, way too seriously for you own good. You obviously know that, dispite these and many differences, we share an interest in politics, history, and astronomy, among other subjects. You may take your shower now.

The missing commandment: Take care of the place for the next folks who come along.

Gravity is flattering. It's kinda nice when the entire planet wants you back so badly.

I have to ask: are there two of you? Who is this entity that is trusting? Is there a separation between the truster and the trusted? Duality would be a distraction and a waste of energy, no? There are probably more than two. One to be afraid, one to doubt, one to believe, one to appreciate the beauty.... I constantly converse with myself on more difficult terrain. Works for me.

Everyone must make their own rules through behavior, higher power or not. Discipline is a choice: it has nothing to do with God one way or the other.

A lot of them are free during the week.