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Everything posted by tvashtarkatena
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From the USGS page: "The South Cascade Glacier is one of three benchmark glaciers studied by the USGS for the effects of changes in climate. The mass-balance scientific record for South Cascade Glacier is the longest of its kind in North America and is used by climate scientists worldwide." Should they clean up the garbage dump (with choppers)? Yes. Should they stop this research? No.
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Question about stitched eye strength.
tvashtarkatena replied to tpcollins's topic in Climber's Board
+1. I've never understood what a PAS is for, either. -
My friend wasn't clipped him. Basic and unfortunately common mistake. He'd only been climbing 3 years. He was also pulling the rope in the line of fire. Another basic mistake. I'm not sure if he'd cleared the route of loose rocks on the way down or not. Perhaps a third basic mistake. It often takes 3 errors in judgement and/or habits - and they can be subtle, to produce a fatal accident. Not always, of course. A lot of times these are fairly innocuous habits that can work fine for years until things line up and they bite you. Yes, anyone can get the chop, but much more often than not - such errors in habits and judgement play a key role. As Tod Skinners death illustrated, even the most experienced and talented climbers in the world can employ unsafe practices that eventually catch up to them. I continually look to improve my best practices - and these improvements most often come from people with far less time in a harness than I have who've researched new information I didn't think to look for. Along that line, both rope holsters and autoblocks are innovations that are well work looking at. I've used both - and am using autoblocks a lot more now. The one i use is to clip a prusik (you should have one available to escape a belay or ascend a rope anyway) to the leg loop, wrap it around the rap rope 3-4 times, and clip in back into the same biner. Very quick setup. I would appreciate seeing a pic of the rope holster Montypiton's referring to. There are a few ways to do this. I'm interested in knowing what has worked for him the best.
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I don't agree that knots at the end of the rope are always a good idea. Get your rope stuck after the toss - you don't need high winds to do this either - and you'll see what I mean. Better to send the more experienced person down first to clear the rope of snarls, then have them put knots in the end for those who follow IMO. Another option is the send the 1st down on a single fixed line (with auto block if you want and a means to re-ascend if it all goes wrong) trailing the 2nd rope down with him, then switch to standard two rope rap when the 1st is off rap. This isn't a bad idea in high winds or crap terrain - or when you're really no sure where the next anchor is.
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A very good friend died in the late 80s because he failed to stay clipped in until he was fully on rappel. Big, easy mountain ledge. Why bother? He was knocked off the mountain by falling rocks while pulling the rope.
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Grizzlies to eat hippies and other unwanted
tvashtarkatena replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
I came screaming down a hairpin in Pemberton area during the mountain bike leg of an adventure race and damn near hit a grizzly in the middle of the road. I added that to my "things not to hit" list, just below 'oncoming train'. -
Grizzlies to eat hippies and other unwanted
tvashtarkatena replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
Introduce grizzlies into the Olympics. Problem solved. -
first ascent [TR] Vesper Peak - The Ragged Edge 8/18/2013
tvashtarkatena replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
Paging Dr. Kaplan. Dr. Kaplan to the Earth Ward, stat. -
first ascent [TR] Vesper Peak - The Ragged Edge 8/18/2013
tvashtarkatena replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
People go where the guidebooks tell them to. -
Depends on the phone. With the Galaxy 4 (Android) you get GPS navigation without cell service. With an iPhone? Not so much. Not yet, at least.
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Grizzlies to eat hippies and other unwanted
tvashtarkatena replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
That would have been a more compelling video had they just eased that kid out through an open window. -
Grizzlies to eat hippies and other unwanted
tvashtarkatena replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
Remember, a grizzly's only gonna kill you if a) it's guarding its cubs b) it's guarding its kill or c) it's just looking for something to do -
Grizzlies to eat hippies and other unwanted
tvashtarkatena replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
If he's sleeping, switch the GoPro on and gently pet him. -
Grizzlies to eat hippies and other unwanted
tvashtarkatena replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
More grizz = faster ascents. -
Grizzlies to eat hippies and other unwanted
tvashtarkatena replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
The danger of an under or overexposed photo cannot be underestimated. -
Grizzlies to eat hippies and other unwanted
tvashtarkatena replied to num1mc's topic in Climber's Board
Thanks for keeping Wyoming's awesome routes less crowded for guys like me! While bears are a common sight in the Tetons (no big) - it's pretty rare to see one in the Cirque and other more frequented areas of the Winds. Me? I'm a bit more concerned with dangers I actually have to face there. Like lighting, for example. -
Ingalls S Ridge approach - snow?
tvashtarkatena replied to tvashtarkatena's topic in Climber's Board
Got a confirmation there's no snow at the base of the E ridge. Just checking out the S. Thanks. Courtesy note: Both routes are going to be a bit busy up there this weekend. -
Ingalls S Ridge approach - snow?
tvashtarkatena replied to tvashtarkatena's topic in Climber's Board
S Ridge. Typo. Been there recently? -
Anyone been there recently? Ax or no? Thx T
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Just climbed it. Def no rope due to chosstacularity. The descent is the real fun part. Good berries, though.
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At the stand: Yates adjustable daisy (very adjustable - rated load limit: 300 lbs) clipped to the anchor backed up by a short length of dynamic rope attached to the anchor via a clove hitch (pretty adjustable) to a locking biner at the anchor power point. Clip the loose end of the dynamic rope into the anchor with a figure 8 on a bight, and tie in to your harness (threaded just like your belay loop) with a rewoven figure 8. The Yates is girth hitched to your belay loop. It's unclear how you're ascending the rope. That's the other part to think about.
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Don't use an ascender or any toothed device to arrest a fall of any length unless you want to tear your rope a new one. A static rope like yours especially.
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[TR] Bugaboos - Bugaboo-Snowpatch col 8/9/2014
tvashtarkatena replied to coastal 'swhack's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Thanks for the heads up. -
For anyone wanting to add a wire to a picket - Yate's uses 5/32" cable - 2250 lbs. 42" eye to eye. Given that a well placed deadman will blow at 1500 lbs, you can get away with 1/8" cable (1750 lbs) Stainless cable with (properly) crimped Cu swage (don't use Al) will give you 90% of that - just over 1500 lbs. For T cross section pickets - you'll want to use an eye sleeve on the picket end of the cable to keep it from slicing through the aluminum. The biner on the other end has a larger diameter - not so much of an issue there. You can used galvanized cable with Al (don't use Cu) swages, but the Al will reduce overall strength a bit more. Fisherman's Supply in Seattle has the goods, BTW.