Crillz

I agree with the hangboard too. At first I thought they were worthless for trad (had jamming tunnel vision or something), but I decided to get one after getting pimped on Clean and Jerk in J-tree. I have noticed the benefits on the stone - I hung mine up a few months ago.

Totally agree. Also, seams to me that a little bit more committment is involved in attempting the moves. Also, seams to be that falling is more common once you get above 5.9s and low 5.10s.

Trip: Red Rocks Nevada - Cruisers Date: 3/28/2010 Trip Report: Prequel: Spring break was coming up for my girlfriend (Amy). She needed a break from the grad-school grind, and I, well I just needed a break from the daily desk jockey grind. Somewhere warm and sunny was her request… somehow I talked her into going to Red Rocks. The Travels: We decided to road trip it down to the desert. Luckily the weather was good for driving, but the scenery in eastern Nevada is, um… Anyway, we made it from Seattle to the town of bling-bling in two days (I’d guess about 18 hours of driving). I was a little worried about available campsites in infamous Campghanistan due to the soon-to-be ending RR Rendezvous, but I had a plan. Somehow I had also talked my parents into having our annual visit in the Sin City area, so they were able to arrive early and secure a little plot of the arid region. Mom and dad don’t climb, but they’re good sports. Amy, Da Author, Da Author's Pops: The Climbing: This was my 3rd trip to Red Rocks, and with Amy along it would give me a good reason to hit up the “easy” classics. Endless supplies of beta exist for the routes that we climbed, so I won’t bore you with too much more. The Routes: Cat in the Hat – Amy and I climbed this “popular” route on a nice sunny day. The climb was perfect except for the horde of other climbers, which was expected. We did the climb in 4 pitches (to the top of the “slab” pitch) and had one minor stuck rope off the top rappel. Johnny Vegas/ Solar Slab Link – We met up with Sherri (a fellow cc.commie) and went for the ultimate low grade send. I’m pretty sure we starting climbing around 9:30 or 10:00 – in part due to approach issues and, of course other parties. We topped out on JVegas in 3+ pitches and did 6 pitches on SSlab, finishing up with the hand crack pitch. I’m pretty sure we were about 50’ or so from the top of the rap route when we decided to call it. The descent took about 2-1/2 hours with one rope snafu (easily fixed by another group rapping behind us). Washingtonian's in the Desert? Send master Sherri: Top of JVegas: Some Solar Slabbing (P2): Geronimo – Once again Amy and I met up with Sherri for a romp up this splendid cruiser, on Sherri’s suggestion. 4 pitches of jugs! Great climb to end with. Geronimo. Nice belay spot down there: Finally got to see a crew of these: Non-climbing Beta: That porter at BJ’s restaurant is delish! The sushi joint in the Red Rocks Casino was damn tasty, and didn’t seem to expensive. A hotel room every-other night is the way to go (when your girl is with you). Keep an eye out for the sketchy brothels out West. Will provide climbing related beta if requested. Gear Notes: Climbing shizzle. Firewood. Beerz. Approach Notes: Remembering to call in for a late exit permit!

Yikes! Sumbodies spellzchek wasn'not wurkings propperlie.

Wassup with all the spew on this? Is this Texas or something? Why say anything. If you don't fit the description, and really want to climb with this guy anyway, send the dude a PM and see if he'll climb with you. Why do you care what he's looking for in a climbing partner? You should go start a don't ask don't tell spray topic.

Wow! Assuming your car didn't get pancaked, how awful it would be to be burried alive in your car. How many hours of air do you think you'd have in little honda or something.

Ditto. What time does the train arrive in 11worth? I didn't even know the train stopped there. What about taking bicycles on the train?

Screw all you chestbeaters. You send Thin Fingers and you can claim a 5.11 at Index (assuming you don't skirt the crux). Plain and simple. Doesn't mean you can send all of the 5.11s or even any of the other 5.11s, But... it does mean you sent a wicked f'n line!

Also left off 5.7 C1

Somes is in color nowadayz! PS. The 50' handcrack on HOC is 10a. Compare it to any of the other 10a handcracks close by.

Bump. May only need one more person.

Huh? Snow!

Try 2-4 years. Hopefully you remember the good times!

Haha. He told me a month or so ago, while taking a TR on my rope, that it was his 200th time up Godzeewa.

Feelers...... Was thinking about dropping the dough for a season pass this year. Still can't find any info if next season will be good though. Anyway, until May 1st, four adults can get together for a group purchase. Makes them about $6 hundy after tax. Looks like without the group buy, you gotta shell out almost $880+ - Dishing out cash like this, this early, makes me nervous. Anybody interested in the group buy? Anybody have an educated guess or info on next season's winter? From what I've read it's too early for an accurate prediction, but who knows...

When solo aiding with the grigri, you'll still have potential to take a pretty good sized fall. You'll eventually get pissed and pull through large amounts of rope to speed things up. You'll see what I mean. I would say top stepping would be key to speedy success! I thought it was scary to try and learn while soloing. Sometimes you can place cams or easy to remove nuts to help you high step. Also, get the jugging settup down.

Ivan, How'd the contacts mess up your eyes? Got me skeered. I wear mine for many days in a row on trips. I told the eye doc what I needed them for, and I ended up with these Accuvue Oasis - ok to wear continuous for a week. I might think about kicking down the dough for the surgery if my eyes were getting screwed. My vision hasn't worsened in the last couple of years.

Some of those songs are too long. Good if you've been drinking, but not other times.

Ride the Light-ening

Hahaha!

My $.02: Perhaps many feel the same way as you do, as the reality of the 8 to 5 - doing this for what - begins to set in after 5 or so years of middle class reality. I sure did. I said F*ck it, and bailed on the job for a while. Situations are different, and you've got pretty good advice from peeps here. You must first decide which route you truly are after - pure dirtbag (years) or in need of a break (months). If it's months, then save $$$. You'll need it for your "vacation" and you'll need it to transition back in with the worker bees. How much you need or what you'll need the dough for depends on your own situation. I'd echo Mark's comment on insurance - don't be stupid, get an adequate policy. As far as the unemployment, if at all possible, I would attempt to get it. Part of your paycheck goes to fund this anyway, and once you go back to work, you will pay way more than you will ever recieve - obviously opinions vary, and they may have a "little" to do with the age of the person giving the advice . I know a few people that are getting unemployment in the Seattle area - it's all done via da interweb, so it's pretty easy. Also, you will feel refreshed when you return from your break - for a while. Unless you get a real sense of accomplishment from what you do for most of your waking day (work), you will be looking out the window and dreaming of what should be, just as before.

Some people still don't use 70m ropes there?

Didn't mean to be a jerk. I like looking at the pics. Fixed #5 up high? You still might want a cam you can walk.

Above 5.10a? Hmmmm. Nonetheless, thanks for the stoke!

Just because you pay taxes for public land use, don't actually mean you can use the land . You might be surprised. I'm doing contract work for the Feds in downtown Seattle - some scary shizzle going on. Some big bucks are being spent.