bigeo

I also felt that the climbing on Ptarmigan was less interesting and sustained than on Lib. Ridge. Good call on doing the left variation. The 2 move "mixed" crux going right is pretty anticlimactic. And that long rising traverse to Lib. Cap definitely detracts. Still, my second favorite route on Rainier. Beautiful pics. Thanks.

any one had a look at Drury lately?

Yeah, only two parties on the route Sunday. Met two parties heading down as we approached, concerned about avy conditions in the basin under the E face. Gotta say things felt pretty locked down, but there was evidence of wind loading on that aspect. Route is in cruiser cond.

We went up to Alpental instead and approached two different lines (the one to climbers right of Flow Reversal and something on Bryant Butt.) and actually roped up before the warm temps and threatening hang fire caused us to back off. Ended up on the rap wall instead. My concern with Drury was that there would be similar objective hazards, but, with the effort involved in getting to it and the years of anticipation, good judgment might not prevail. Seeing the pics from yesterday, it doesn't look all that hazardous and I wish we had stuck to plan. Anyway, thanks Alex for the pep talk and I do intend to keep Drury in my sights and make it happen this winter if conditions allow.

That's frustrating. Rubber boat is packed in the van, gear assembled, stoke was high, but after waiting for 30+ years to climb Drury, I guess I can wait awhile longer. When it happens, it's gonna be PERFECT. Thanks for the update.

Thanks Alex. What do you think the current warmup does to prospects for climbing Drury tomorrow?

Appreciate the beta. Where did you cross the river?

That's funny. A few years ago, a partner and I were heading up to climb The Holy Grail (RIP Chris), found the log crossing Squire Crk after following the trail, marked by a cairn, right after a creek cuts the old road (just like our beta said). Never found the wash on the other side, but made our way up through the forest and then brush, angling climber's left. Decided eventually that we had gone too far in that direction and headed back the other way. When we were dirty, tired, frustrated and ready to give up, I spotted a bolt. Turns out, we were somewhere on the third (if I remember correctly) pitch of Slab Daddy. Managed to climb about 15 pitches, even though it was almost noon by the time we roped up. Great climbing. I have been meaning to get back up there and finish it. Maybe next year... That Caleb sure gets out a lot for a "retired" climber.

Bonus! Way to sneak in a late season classic.

Good beta, thanks.

Hope to duplicate this weekend (w/o the thunderstorm). Are crampons/axe advised for getting down the Sherpa? Thanks for the TR.

The NE Buttress of Chair provides pretty good bang for your buck as a rock climb/scramble.

Hey Dan, that brought back some memories. Glad we didn't have to bivy. I do remember taking some "naps" before getting back to camp.

Looks a lot more interesting than when we climbed/skied it in July a couple of years ago. Your dedication to "mountain safety research" is commendable.

Great video and spectacular climbing. Strong work gentlemen.

Love it! Thought y'all were in P'stan

glad you didn't buy those nomics; you would probably just drop them. sounds like a good trip, just stop taking this climbing thing so seriously

Sir, If you have not already retained the services of a literary agent, I humbly recommend myself to you. I have no experience in that arena, but believe that great art speaks for itself.

I have an old-school (no map) Etrex summit that I would sell for $50.

Good to see Nastia putting those Nomics to work. They wouldn't see that kind of action in Washington. Nice trip. Next year I'm going to Kanada.

Let me tell you from experience those sprinkler pipes are not to be trusted. I know this from a shenanigan with my GF in college (it was only her weight at the time of failure, but in a another few seconds, I would have "joined" her). What a mess! But it turned us in to campus legends for awhile.

High quality and good-looking jacket in excellent condition. Here is the description from 66 north: http://www.66north.com/us/shop/pc-1145-424-vatnajokull-mens-primaloft-jacket.aspx $75 I am in the Seattle area.

Are these what you're looking for? http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/2835428348.html

bump for price drop

Where can I find some of those pinky rests? Oh, and I'll take the biners.