bigeo

Thanks Dane. I guess it was hiding from us. And yes, the fall did provide a nice adrenalin rush and a bruised ego.

Actually, I would say the conditions have already deteriorated significantly from what they were last week judging by the pics and video. Today was a snice fest and, as I learned at the cost of a 20' lead fall, you can't trust that stuff. Luckily, that old pin at the bottom of the corner on the second pitch is stronger that it looks. The wet, heavy snow that has collected on the route created major crampon balling, which added to the fun. Still, a great route that I want to repeat in better conditions. Thanks to Wayne, Dane, et al for planting the seed and providing the stoke to get out and do this. One question: Where is the third pitch? At the rap tree above the second pitch, we didn't see any more ice.

Can't wait. Single or double rope raps?

Here is another suspicious craigslist ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/1581749357.html Wish I got christmas presents like that.

This looks a little suspicious: http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/spo/1562644205.html

They look just like these: http://www.cloudveil.com/mens/gloves-mitts/softshell/ice+floe+glove--CV09296/ which I assume is the latest (last?) iteration.

Since it seems like Cloudveil has stopped making my favorite ice climbing gloves, I took a chance on a pair of mediums that I found online. Alas, they are too tight. This may be your last chance to pick up a pair of these, and at a good price. I live a little north of Seattle and can meet in the vicinity or you can paypal for them and I will mail for an extra $5.

Unfortunately, we were not with the four guys on the big, official bivy ledge. We stopped when it got dark a couple of pitches below that and spent the night tied in on a small ledge that drops off into the "heart of darkness". Wasn't a bad night, but we envied you up on the ridge. The guys above us claimed you even had a campfire. My kind of bivy. That is a cool pic!

We also used the Xover descent after climbing the NE Butt.(hey jmace, were you the guys who were yodeling at us on Sat. night?) last weekend. It went really smoothly (thanks to the great beta from Jeremy and others) until we could no longer follow the flagging in the forest due to dim light. We hit the basin a little too high I believe and had a pretty awful 3/4 mile of schwack to get across and up to the trail. Still, I would do it again over the Slesse Creek descent any time. That said, a party of four who were descending with us up to the point where the two descent routes diverge made it down to slesse crk and out to the road in only a little more time than it took us (about 5 hours). The crossover descent has such a great alpine ambiance to it and no transport hassles.

Thanks Jason and Ty for the info. on the water situation. And thanks to Buckaroo for further clarification on the crossover descent route. Armed with all that beta, I figure that our chances of screwing it up are down to 50/50. If the weather cooperates this weekend, I'll report back on our xover experience.

I don't want to interrupt this great spat, but I am hoping to get some info. Planning to do the NE Butt. next weekend and since I know (from doing it last year)the Slesse Creek descent is long,tedious and a logistical problem with the transport we are going to try the crossover descent this time. I really appreciate all the beta that people have posted, positive and negative. My question is: will we find water/snow on the approach, climb, descent and if so, where? If anyone who has been up that way in the last few weeks has some insight, please share.

When we did this route last sept. there was a little chunk of snow just up from the big bivy ledge midroute (top of pitch 14 according to Nelson) When klondike says no water, I assume that means no snow either?

Good on ya, Dan and Jesse, but are you sure that is the Price Glacier? It looks a little different from the pictures in 50 Classic Climbs. Where are the "delicate snow flutings"? Must be global warming. How long is the bike ride between trailheads?

Thanks for the TR. Brought back memories. Climbed Ptarmigan 2 years ago early July in similar conditions, judging by your pics. The slog across the Libery Cap Glacier from the top of the ridge was one of the longer death marches of my climbing career (post holing shin deep the whole way). We spent an extra night on Lib. Cap to avoid descending the Emmons in deep schmoo. Because it tops out much closer to Lib Cap, I prefer Liberty Ridge. The terrain on Ptarmigan is interesting though and I have been thinking about doing it again to try the left hand variation. Good on ya for ticking that one.

Thanks for the TR. Brought back memories. Climbed Ptarmigan 2 years ago early July in similar conditions, judging by your pics. The slog across the Libery Cap Glacier from the top of the ridge was one of the longer death marches of my climbing career (post holing shin deep the whole way). We spent an extra night on Lib. Cap to avoid descending the Emmons in deep schmoo. Because it tops out much closer to Lib Cap, I prefer Liberty Ridge. The terrain on Ptarmigan is interesting though and I have been thinking about doing it again to try the left hand variation. Good on ya for ticking that one.

Good to see someone was thoughtful enough to provide an iron at the lookout. You wouldn't believe how many lookouts don't have one.

Nice work guys. Way to tough it out and get er done. Great pics too. I expect we'll be seeing more trip reports from you.

sold

Since you asked, weren't the last 4 ascents actually in 09?

I am looking to buy a pair of 90mm or wider brakes to fit the original fritschi freerides. The ones that fit the newer(red/white)FRs won't work without modifying the bindings, but if you have a pair of those to sell, let me know. The brakes I want look like this

Apparently there were more inquiring minds than I thought. Sorry about that, Dan. Glad to hear everyone got along, no cut ropes and ice tool fights. Was anyone brave enough to get on the N. Face?

Trip: Chair Pk - NE Butt. Date: 1/22/2009 Trip Report: For all you inquiring minds who want to know, the Butt is in fine shape, with thunker neve and enough ice to make it interesting. Getting there couldn't be easier (leave the skis at home) The N Face is looking kind of thin. Gear Notes: A few small nuts, cams, 4 screws up to 17cm. You can rap the gulley with a single 60mm and downclimb from there Approach Notes: Drive, then walk

Marc, It was great sharing the route and descent with you, neale and reinhard. What an amazing climb in perfect conditions. Look forward to seeing you in the crags again. Thanks again neale for the ride back to our car. I didn't really need the extra exercise of a 10 mile bike ride.

We skied Whitehorse today and it was glorious. Luckily, the sun never came out for very long and the temps stayed cool enough to make the avy danger manageable. There was enough new snow to cover all the tracks from last weekend. We followed zoroaster's beta to the extent that we did go up the avy debris filled gully that comes in on the right, but we just stayed in it up to 2700' and then took a snow covered ramp to the left onto the rib that divides the right hand gully from the main basin. Once on the rib, we were able to make a level traverse on snow over to the main basin. There was no schwacking involved and, under present conditions this seems like a clean, efficient way to start your climb. I believe on of my compadres will post a TR with pics soon.

Thanks again for the beta. Going to give it a go tomorrow.