bigeo

That's funny. A few years ago, a partner and I were heading up to climb The Holy Grail (RIP Chris), found the log crossing Squire Crk after following the trail, marked by a cairn, right after a creek cuts the old road (just like our beta said). Never found the wash on the other side, but made our way up through the forest and then brush, angling climber's left. Decided eventually that we had gone too far in that direction and headed back the other way. When we were dirty, tired, frustrated and ready to give up, I spotted a bolt. Turns out, we were somewhere on the third (if I remember correctly) pitch of Slab Daddy. Managed to climb about 15 pitches, even though it was almost noon by the time we roped up. Great climbing. I have been meaning to get back up there and finish it. Maybe next year... That Caleb sure gets out a lot for a "retired" climber.

Bonus! Way to sneak in a late season classic.

Good beta, thanks.

Hope to duplicate this weekend (w/o the thunderstorm). Are crampons/axe advised for getting down the Sherpa? Thanks for the TR.

The NE Buttress of Chair provides pretty good bang for your buck as a rock climb/scramble.

Hey Dan, that brought back some memories. Glad we didn't have to bivy. I do remember taking some "naps" before getting back to camp.

Looks a lot more interesting than when we climbed/skied it in July a couple of years ago. Your dedication to "mountain safety research" is commendable.

Great video and spectacular climbing. Strong work gentlemen.

Love it! Thought y'all were in P'stan

glad you didn't buy those nomics; you would probably just drop them. sounds like a good trip, just stop taking this climbing thing so seriously

Sir, If you have not already retained the services of a literary agent, I humbly recommend myself to you. I have no experience in that arena, but believe that great art speaks for itself.

Good to see Nastia putting those Nomics to work. They wouldn't see that kind of action in Washington. Nice trip. Next year I'm going to Kanada.

Let me tell you from experience those sprinkler pipes are not to be trusted. I know this from a shenanigan with my GF in college (it was only her weight at the time of failure, but in a another few seconds, I would have "joined" her). What a mess! But it turned us in to campus legends for awhile.

Saw you guys up there while skinning across the lake. Very impressive. I noticed that flow before and wondered if anyone ever gets on it. A picture of you and some conditions photos from the area

'twas a fine day out t' craggy, that. Thanks, Chris, for helping us get the approach dialed in and for all your work creating stellar routes on the Illusion Wall. A few pics...

Here is some other ice climbing we found at Snow Lake recently [img:left][/img]

Hey Friedrich, If you get out there, tell us what you find. Thanks.

When were those pics taken? I saw those flows a few weeks ago on a tour around Chair Pk and will be surprised/excited to hear that they are still in after the big thaw.

Full-on guys. Nice effort. I climbed the N Face this summer for the second time (first time was about 30 years ago) and joked with my partner that it would be a lot easier in winter. There is a post here somewhere from a couple winters ago of the Index traverse done in a push. Interesting reading if you want to know how the pros do it.

Skied around Chair Pk yesterday and took a few pics that might be of interest. First pic is the W side of Chair from the Melakwa lakes basin. Second is the other side of the same basin. Last pic is Flow Reversal above Source Lake. Chockstone Falls looked in as well.

There are people who have traveled farther than the rest of us, never going far from home and there are many who have traveled and had "adventures" the world over without escaping from their own heads. You are right about one thing, Mr. Smith: You "fail to see."

"So you are already condemning yourself with complacency and planning a life of mediocracy when you can do and have anything you want? So, not aspiring to a rich and extravagant life, living within your means, equals "complacency" and "mediocracy(sic)"? If you want to leave a small footprint on this earth and can get by and enjoy your existence without abundant resources, you're a loser?

Nothing wrong with the kid climbing Everest or his parents supporting him in the endeavor. That said, being a working-class bloke, I'm a Josh Lewis fan. Gotta love his style. Not likely to see his name in the headlines though.

Thanks for reminding us that climbing can be "simple", awe-inspiring and joyful.

The first time I climbed IB (successfully) it was in November. We got to the top just as the sun was setting, so the entire descent was in the dark. Between the time spent searching for anchors, untangling and unsticking ropes, we didn't get to the base until 2am. At least it was a beautiful clear night and not that cold. Nice work guys!