denalidave

Since Bill won't I will! I thank Joseph each time I clip into those Metolius rap anchors. And I thank him each time he helps me out on my software. Paul Cou sar Ditto.

Cue shot of PINK SOLOING LIL WING! Plus, HE climbed EL CAP!!!

Wow, nice find Bill. Thanks.

We went up the South Climb on Mon evening/Tue am... 92 degrees at the Trout Lake Ranger Station at 2 PM. 82 degrees at the Cold Springs TH at 4 PM. We camp just below the Lunch Counter and the low that night was around 42 ish. Conditions were frozen early then semi-slushy by mid morning. The glissade chute from the summit was more like a bobsled run, winding and over 4 feet deep in many spots. We noticed one new small wildfire burning to the west, just north of the Columbia River. All in all, a really fun over-nighter. The slog seemed much shorter than we both remembered. I'd post some pics but I've given up trying to load them on this site, as I always get sanffled anymore. Gear notes: 1 pair pons (used from lunch counter up but the Mrs was fine w/out). 2 old skool heavy ice axes: used for glissading down. Trekking poles, lightweight tent (did not need but brought in case the bugs were bad, but there were virtually no bugs) and one mamacita seniorita.

Sweet! I've got to get back up there someday.

Or my black Kershaw pocket knife? I think I may have lost it on the north side last spring.

Kenny, 'rebolting' lacks the 'tro' that would redefine it as 'retrobolting'. The difference between the two could only be considered subtle under some pretty special circumstances. perhaps, but only in a special understanding of it all. you did "re(tro)bolt" YW, though, against the wishes of the first ascentionist, too, i might add... (Jim said you never asked if he minded that you did that, but you said that you had talked with him about it and he told you it was ok). several of the bolts have moved (ive seen where you patched the old holes - you'd have to be blind to not see them) and i'm not sure what effect this has on the route but i'm sure that when/if jim climbs it this year he will have plenty to say on how it is all f**ked up now.

I'm thinking of taking the Mrs up there on Mon/Tue, anyone been up this weekend that can add to the conditions report? Thanks, Dave

??

?

Absolutely. Step aside Ivan.

There's plenty of pins laying all over the place there... I just saw one on the notch the other day that nobody seems to use.

Steve, I've taken enough falls on Sufficiently Breathless to assure you it does take good gear. However, the tricky gear is right off the ground, but even there, you can get in some small nuts, as well as small/micro cams. I'd say it is sustained 10a (IMO).

Besides doing it w a pack, try it w/out a pack but a small dumbell, instead. You can shift the weight from 1 arm to the other, perhaps it may help with your climbing hand, forearm and finger strength? Otherwise, I used to just put some metal weights (40-50 lb)in the pack and let er rip... Go at the pace you plan on hiking at. Or , work up to it, if needed.

BillCoe already cornered the market on aliens...

I'm usually around Beacon a few days a week too, let me know if you want to run up something. Plenty of good options. Dave

OK, I will preface this by admitting I am a lowly simpleton, but it seems the economy is still in free fall, just a matter of time till we ground out. Regardless of all the shenanigans those in power do to line there own pockets (more) along the way. (IMHO)

Shows in yer climbing. That was in the olden days though, now they use plastic credit cards things (I think), which are chock full off all the essential caloric, vitamins & minerals you need to be the ultimate hardman dirtbag.

Nice Curt, but if the avatar that bstach uses does not dissuade someone maybe they deserve what they get?

That is funny. I was reading this post when I heard the same story on the radio. Enough is enough... I'd bet he'd been wanting to do it for about 19 years.

Now that's funny too.

My favorite shot from that trip was this one... but you can sift through a shit ton more Here - AK Range for a Day Pics Also, more vids at my YouTube site(s) Dave's You Tube I may have met the east coast guys but only a brief hello so not sure if it was them or not. There was only a few climbers and a few rangers in that early though, so it could well have been them.

Cool video! I was out there at the same time. I think you are camped below me on April 24th. Looks like your tents in this short vid I took. I did not get to climb this trip, just went out to putz around on my skis before starting work up there. I could not resist the perfect bluebird day so I went in for just one night. Glad to see you guys made it up in suffer-fest style! [video:youtube]

That "thin crack" is actually the second pitch of crazy horse. The way Jim puts it is its 5.9 on top rope and 10.a to lead. I agree with Jim on that one...

Or, you could just FREE SOLO up BLOWNOUT , then DOWNCLIMB (FREE SOLO) Jill's . That's how the hardmen roll at Bacon, so I hear, anyway.