ScaredSilly

A small observation BITD Elliot Glacier Headwall was an often talked about climb. The same for doing Sandy Glacier Headwall. Though today Sandy Glacier Headwall gets ascended here and there I think more folks focus on the north face gullies and the Reid Glacier. Why? perhaps access for the quality of climb. Especially on the north side.

It is not about the screw being stronger it is about getting it into decent ice. One can not always count on decent glacier ice. As such, having more length allows one to get the screw down into deeper and hopefully better ice without having to dig a pit for it. Similarly when building a V-thread.

Yes, I bring a 22cm long screw. I can use it in a crevasse or on a glacier as part of rescue. Also use it to hang a stove or my pack.

KInda like my first route in the Tetons - we did the North Face of the Grand. Why? Cause it was there and was one the baddest routes on the hill. Either that they got off route and wandered up it - which has happened to climbers on other well known routes.

Yeah, great outcome and story. I liked this statement: “In our review of this whole incident,” says Kelly Bush, “among the points recorded was that when deploying an emergency rations pack to a stranded person, we should consider inclusion of a fully charged iPod and a good book!”

Kinda of like these guys who skied Sunshine and went to the left of Horseshoe Rock but called it EGH: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/884832/Re_Elliot_Glacier_Headwall In above thread there are some very good pictures posted by sweatinoutliquor showing the areas on the hill.

Do not be afraid to check some of the hostels (gites) as many have rooms for couples. La Tapia in Chamonix has such rooms. The same for the hostel in Zermatt. The Hornli Ridge is comparable to the Upper Exum in terms of difficulty except that the route is much longer and will have snow / ice on various sections. The rock when wet is slicker than snot. Check out the grave yard to understand what I mean.

Yes, and it is also in Nick Dodge's book. FA McJury & Leuthold 1935

Elliot Head Wall is the last 1000' wall of rock/snow directly below the horizontal summit ridge. It is to the right of the North Face Cleaver and left of Horseshoe Rock. If one did not climb steep rock/snow to gain the horizontal portion of the summit ridge one did not climb the headwall. Note some parties climbing Sunshine, will climb to the left of Horseshoe rock but to the right of the headwall and gain Cathedral Ridge. They are still doing Sunshine as they are climbing up the ridge. If one did the Headwall they would be traversing and not climbing up the summit ridge Look at Jeff's book.

Get a belay jacket of some sort. I have one from Wild Country but there is also the Patagonia Puff Ball. One thing that really helps me to regulate my temp is going sans hat under my helmet. If I am cold I just pull the hood up on my jacket.

I would suggest that for the first time you look at early June. Longer days, warmer temps, more stable weather. I would also suggest planning a mid week venture up the hill - fewer people.

I would not say that staying in trees will assure one of being safe. Sure it better than being on an open slope. And trees do act as anchors to help snow from moving. But once the snow is moving they force the snow around them - like a rock in a stream. However, much depends on the density of the trees as well as the sliding surface. Ridge tops where the slide looks to have started are typically not that dense. I have been in what most would consider reasonably dense trees and had wet slides plow through. It was fricking scary as we could hear trees being knocked over. Also remember that the slide could have propagated into the trees which could have done two things. One undermine the area where skiers were holed up thus forcing them from out from the protection of the trees. (i.e. the ground went out from under them). Second the moving snow could have engulfed them thus again forcing them from out from the protection of the trees. While ones body may be protected by a tree, their skis are certainly not unless they are behind a huge tree. Also remember, when one tucks behind a tree they are typically not right next to the trunk - either because of branches, tree well, or where they stopped. Here is a good example of similar slide in Oootah in January that is very similar in multiple ways including a death. http://utahavalanchecenter.org/accident_west_couloir_1282012

Lots of good comments here about knowledge, equipment, good dynamics, skills, etc. Folks might be interested in reading Bruce Tremper's book "Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain." He covers all of these topics. When people ask about my climbing, skiing, canyoneering, adventures I often say that while my adventures have become harder / more difficult they have become safer. The biggest reason willingness to walk away and come back another day. A quote from a good friend - "We all do dumb things, most of the time we get away with it. But when we do not, the consequences are often deadly."

Dan, sorry to hear about your friends. When you say experienced would you mind elaborating. Experienced skiers or experienced in backcountry travel?

http://www.cnn.com/2012/02/19/us/washington-avalanche-deaths/index.html?hpt=hp_t2

Corona Arch - which is on BLM managed land so climbing on it is legal: http://www.blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/moab/recreation/hiking_trails/corona_arch_trail.html You can rappel from it as well: http://climb-utah.com/Moab/corona.htm

You would be surprised . Use the guide to help you decide, that should not be the only factor. As I said, check out the schools you may find that for what you want to do there are a number of schools that will work fine and they may not be top ranked. When I was looking at grad schools my choice was UW of UU. I chose Utah cause I figured that I would end up back in the PNW and wanted to see how the other half of the world lived. I am still in Oootah, it is a meshed up bassackwards state but I have some of the best woods in the world in which to play. Of course it took me 8 years to get through grad because of it though I really did not care (until they cut my funding off).

The above are great references. Over the years I have used most of the major brands. Currently, I am using the Mammut Pulse which has many features. Their more basic model Mammut Element would be my current recommendation for the usage you are describing. Do some searching and you can find them for under $300.

Yes ... what Shapp said. This link might help: http://mountainproject.com/v/matterhorn-west-face-wall/106356964

Bummer, sounds like the winds were harsh wonder if it was a fall or hit with ice? Sorry to those who knew Jared. BTW if makes people feel any better, copy paste some of the inane comments to this search and rescue story ;-). http://www.oregonlive.com/pacific-northwest-news/index.ssf/2012/02/mushroom_pickers_lost_for_six/8001149/comments-newest.html

If you are going to go to grad school pick a top ranked school. At least one in the top 50. Unless the school offers something very unique. http://grad-schools.usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/best-graduate-schools/top-science-schools/chemistry-rankings. Also go visit the schools and programs before making a decision. BTW I left the PNW years ago for grad school in Ooootah - still here. Oh, and I did some ice this weekend and skied some pow as well as doing a bit of skate skiing after work. I make frequent trips back to the PNW to climb on the glaciers.

With the FortyBelow overboots one can cut the neoprene for the bail to fit into. BITD I cut mind and then patched it with duct tape. Now, I would use a hot glue patch. The cut allows the bail to get better purchase on the heal. We did not modify the front as there was typically enough surface area to get the bail to hook in to the welt. As for crampons get something light and easy to use. Most have way more crampon than they need. IMHO one of the best was the old Chouinard Rigid crampon with bails. I used them for several Alaska trips including the Cassin. Still have a pair. A close second was the Salewa Messner Scissor which while a pain to adjust worked nicely. Both are basic crampons that were lighter weight compared to many of days crampons.

WB, it may sound odd but did you happen to stop by the ranger station and let them know about the water bottle? It may be a clue, it may be garbage ... but worth letting the NPS know about it.

Thanks for the link, Dan did climbs all over including with several friends of mine. One who noted Dan was a very humble person.

Stream it on to your HD tv much better than on your computer screen.