ScaredSilly

You really should not need to cache anything at 17k on the West Butt. Going from balcony camp, to the summit, and down to 17k on the Butt is a reasonable but long day. If shit hits the fan at while on the cut off portion of the route just descend to 14k and try again. Further, going up the upper portion of the rib should be pretty light so carrying up and over is not a burden. All you need is a bit of food and fuel for 17k. And if something blows in at 17k and you spend a few days there you can always rob another cache as there will be plenty. One can climb the whole West Butt without food or fuel just rob old caches along the way

I take the old liners out and leave them out and just use the Superfeat.

Just for clarification. Something does not need to deform before it cracks. Bolts hangers take a shock load which is very different loading than a static load. It is all about the energy absorption. As for the issue at hand probably a substandard batch of steel. Which is why QC is so important - trust but verify.

Can you provide some info on it - I know someone who found a watch this morning.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid Headwall Follies Date: 4/27/2013 Trip Report: So today I decided that a run up the Reid Headwall was in order. My partner had bailed because of the winds and other issues so I was solo. I had bivied at Illumination Saddle which was nicely sheltered from the winds that were ripping all night long. I left the saddle with a crack a dawn start of 8am. Once on the Reid the winds were blocked so the climbing was nice with firm snow. At least one if not two other parties had been on the route earlier so I found a few steps here and there. The first chute was straight forward with a reasonable step across the runnel. From there I traversed up to the snow rib where I stowed my ski pole and got out my second tool. Moving up into the second chute* I caught up to another party that had left Illumination Saddle an hour before me. They seemed to be having their fun with dropped screws. Mid way up the chute things cut loose for a good minute. It was a nice shower of grape sized ice pellets. After the clearing the last bit of the chute I continued pretty much straight up and found myself at an unexpected headwall. Hmm, seems I should have exited stage left. I quickly down climbed the slope and moved left and went up another little chute. Okay well that was silly as now I was back at the headwall. Traversing left from up high just did not seem prudent as it was a rimmed up corner. I thought about down climbing again (nothing like running laps midway up a route) and looking for another left turn even lower down but then I noticed some steps out on the ridge line. What the hell lets see where that leads. After traversing some steep runnels with a couple of less than secure plunged axe moves I was on the ridge. This ridge is just to the left of the West Crater Rim and consists of series of steep rimmed steps which eventually joins with the West Crater Rim at approximately 11k. The ridge line was moderate climbing on rime ice and via more runnels. The finial fun was traversing the summit ridge as several times gusts about knocked me over. Going down the old chute was a blast as one could lean into the wind and plunge step down without worrying about falling. I was back at Illumination Saddle at 11am. So three hours round trip from the saddle. Sorry no photos as the wind was ripping by the time I got past the snow rib so taking photos was really a not priority. * I think it was at this "second" chute that left turn was missed for being on the true route. But as noted there are many variations.

Mfox79, yer probably already in Orygun but while weather has been nice the winds are ripping up on the hill this weekend. A great cloud cap show was put on today. The winds on the summit ridge were probably sustained at ~40 mph and could have easily blown someone off balance and down the north face. One of the few times I have been concerned about the traverse along the summit ridge (I came up from West Crater Rim after soling up the Reid Headwall).. Of course coming down from the old chute was a hoot. I just leaned into the wind and plunge stepped down.

More often not June would be more likely. In 2010 it did not open until July 3 but that after a good snow year.

I have a Wild Things Andanista which is 90L. If I ever truly filled it up it would mean two things 1) I have too much shit 2) and I would laying face down in snow cause of all the weight. That said having that much room is nice cause you can stuff a tent/bag in there without having to compress the hell out of it.

Any screw in burner will work. Skip the Buet cartridges which once punctured must be consumed. I have this one which is super lite and works great. http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Backpacking-Stove-Reviews/Optimus-Crux There is no issue with flying with any burner - just leave the cartridges at home. I have also flown with a gas stove and bottles. Just make sure they are clean. The fuel you want in France is called "Essence C" and you buy it at a hardware store.

Thought folks might enjoy this history. Especially on how they climbed the OS Chimney. A complete recording of the interview is at the AAC.

Great Brownian motion!!!!

Are ya planning on camping or climbing? Sounds like camping if yer bringing all that crap to Denali. People bring too much crap and wonder why they can not get up the hill. Leave it at home and bring a book that contains drama, sex, and violence. Everyone should bring one book. Then trade around. When you are all done trade with others at 14K.

Yeah, leave all shit at home. That said what does out and about mean ? On boat, in the woods, in the mountains, in a car? Are ya carrying everything or packing with a beast of burden? Kinda of makes an impact on the solution.

Nice outing I always found things rather drippy on my ski trips in there. BUt at least you had some good views. PS Don't you mean "Our early-spring ascent "

Cooper Spur is the obvious choice for directness but as said above not always the safest due to avy danger and the chance of an uncontrolled bum slide on to the Elliot Glacier. Other options are Sunshine or Newton Clark. I have gone down the South side and walked back to Cooper's Spur a couple of times. It is a bit of a walk but not so bad with firm snow. The last time it took us 12 hours (7 up - 5 down) after doing the NF. With skis it would be a blast.

Just go to the information office and ask for a place to stay at one of the Gite d'Etapes. I have stayed at theses two: http://www.latapia.com - out of town a bit but nice and quiet http://www.skistation.fr - in town and basic. BTW This weekend is Easter and in France many people are traveling and will be skiing so I would contact some places now other wise you might be sleeping under telepherique station.

As said above just find a steep slope around Timberline to play on. Two pieces of advice though pick an open slope - i.e. watch out tree wells they can be deadly. Also when sliding around with crampons on pick up your feet lest you want a broken ankle. Other than that the Mazamas and other organizations often offer snow safety courses.

The easiest way is to skin all the way up to Illumination Saddle and leave skis there. On the decent at the bottom of the Hogsack drop off to the right side of Crater Rock which will bring you back to the saddle. That said the headwall is not so steep that one can schlep them along which means a quick crossing of the Reid Glacier. For the OP sounds like you did the standard traverse which brings one to the shoulder of Yocum on the Sandy Glacier side which requires some down climbing. I too was surprised by the traverse and in some ways it is the crux. Also most people miss going out to Queen's Chair which a nice place to plunk yer butt down for a few minutes and gander out on the Elliot Headwall. The Queen's Chair is right below the last hump up to the summit.

I will agree with the two tent option. But will add in another reason. In case one gets trashed for some reason you can cram all three into the other tent. When we acclimated at 14k we had three tents for four people. The third tent did not get used except at 14k and it was nice to spread out while we hung out. After that one person dropped out while we went over to the Cassin and took the two Biblers (and Eldo and I) up the ridge. Worked great as the single person in the I tent did the cooking and stored gear for the night. While many take a megamid for cooking I would say skip it with three. Most people take too much crap up the hill. And with a second tent you can cook in it when the weather is inclement. That said I would take a vestibule.

While having more room a 4 person tent will rarely be used in most cases and probably just sit around afterwards. This! Except get the vestibules for both. If a shit storm hits and one tent is trashed all three go into one. Once you get to 14k leave a stash and the vestibules to save some weight. Whomever is going single gets to cook (i.e. no cook tent or bivy sacs). If the party splits then no worries. We did something similar when we did the Cassin and while folks said putting two Biblers on Cassin Ledge would be hard we did it in style. PS I have a Bibler I tent that I am willing to part with. It is one of the last ones made with two doors. Which is great when using the vestibule (which it would come with plus the ground cloth for when camping in the dirt/rocks).

I find it ironic in that it was the Forest Service who dismantled the structure in the first place. Yeah, okay the replacement used something 75% of the original materials but the fact remains the Forest Service blew it when they removed it and used a helicopter in the process. As I said above had the Forest Service done all of the restoration work on site without a helicopter they would have been fine - even if they dismantled but not removed the lookout so to build a new foundation. From the wilderness advocacy side I see Wilderness Watch's point. The usage of helicopter was the main issue. Probably not the lookout as it was historical. However, when the Forest Service removed it in its entirety they compounded the problem because it was gone. And in a sense the area returned to it natural state. So when the Forest Service put the restored lookout in place it was considered a new structure which did follow the law. Especially given that the lookout serves no administrative purpose. IMHO Wilderness Watch was correct, the Forest Service is the one to blame for the mess. That said, I am not in favor of the removal of the lookout so the Congressional act is probably appropriate for cleaning up the mess that the Forest Service created in the first place. Going forward you can bet that the Forest Service will change their practices when it comes to historical structures. And as I mentioned my cousin has worked on many, some of which were in wilderness and he never utilized a helicopter - though at times I am sure he wished he could have. BTW speaking of historical treasures did you write a letter to the NPS regarding Camp Muir which has a similar status as the lookout of being on the National Historical Registry ? I bet most that have posted in this thread did not.

From our neighbors to the north: http://www.hlntv.com/article/2013/03/06/giant-icicles-saskatoon?hpt=hln10_5&hpt=hp_t3

The best option for your tent when leaving for the day is to drop it and put a bunch of sacks with snow or rocks on top. The other option if going up to Muir is to stay in the public shelter.

There are lots of boots out on the market now that are great all round single boots. My preference is for boots that have an integral gaiter, like the Scarpa Phantom series or the Sportiva Baltura. What size are looking for ? I am selling a pair of Scarpa Phantom Lites.

Nice. Hopefully, there will be some publicity on such projects. Yes, they try to do take the photos at the same approximate time frame. Usually within weeks if the dates are known. Other wise a best guess.