ScaredSilly

It has been a long time since I have cracked any geology books but my understanding is the Sierra Nevada Range is a batholith which are magna intrusions that did not reach the surface. While some magma did reach the surface such as Devil's Post Pile it was not from a volcano. If there was a volcano I would expect some evidence such as what is seen at Yellowstone.

I learned long ago that Yosemite is the remnant of a batholith system (granite is crystallized from magmas) but I have never heard that is was under a volcano. It would be interesting to know how the author purports this notion as to my knowledge there is no evidence of caldera.

Pickets are quite useful. The above gives good info. The main concern is getting them in so they do not cantilever out when loaded. I pound them suckers in deep cause often the top snow/nevé/ice is crap. Also as said if you dig trench for the sling/cable to sit in all the better. All of my pickets have permanent wire cables on them which will cut into the softer top layers.

No, you can not be detained for refusing to answer. You can only be detained if there is reasonable suspicion that you have committed a crime. Traveling along a road which is where most checks are done way does not constitute reasonable suspicion. The same can be legally be done at DUI check points which are similar. The courts have said such check points are a minimal invasion of privacy given the benefit to the public (4th amendment). However, the right to refuse to answer still holds (5th amendment). The two key questions to ask after you you refuse to answer and the official is unsure what to do and asks you pull over are "Am I being detailed" if they say no then ask "Am I free to go". The above applies within the USA - it does not apply at borders or other point of entry (i.e. Chicago after arriving on an international flight).

Immigration can legally set up check points within the USA but you can legally refuse to answer any questions. The only place immigration/customs officials can make you do anything is when crossing the border.

First, it is not customs but immigration. Customs is for goods, immigration is for people. Second it does not matter whether it was a felony or misdemeanor conviction, the fact that one has been arrested (but not convicted) can be enough to be deemed inadmissible. If your conviction was truly expunged then you may be ok - damn well had better check on that - regardless of your travel desires. Records do not always get update correctly. http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/australia-australie/visas/inadmissible-interdite.aspx That said after you figure out things on this side of the border your best is to personally contact a consulate. http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/seattle/index.aspx

Nice. I have always wanted to try that line. How was the last pitch? Must have fun to plop on to the summit after that last bit.

Plenty have bailed off. As said being able to down climb competently once above thumb rock is a must. However, real judgement comes when one realizes that a forward retreat can be safer. Further, there is also much to be said about safety in numbers as well staying together. The summit can often be in a cloud cap so before going up the finial headwall grouping up can be helpful in negotiating the summit plateau. I would say they got lucky. For glacier travel, IMHO each person should be carrying an ice screw. If ya go into a crack setting a screw can often help greatly while one sorts things out. As such, a three person party should have had at least three screws. They only had two - so error number 1. Further, it does not sound like they had any pickets. Pickets are some of the most useful pieces of gear on Rainier. One can beat the hell out of one and get it to protect things. So error number 2. What was on their side was a party of three and some good weather. So they got lucky. FWIW when we did the headwall some 25 years ago we used three pickets and then once above needed one more so I just used my ice axe finishing the last bit with one tool. As such, here again I will make the comment that there is a lot to be said for learning how to competently climb steep snow with one tool. Never, know when you might need to use yer tool for pro or fumble yer way up after dropping one.

I woud recommend seeing an opthamologist as it sounds like you are having some sort of reaction to the intense UV/visible light.

The majority are doing old chute, if you need a second tool for the standard S. Side you should not be up there. As for crampons, I'd recommend a pair of SMC hinged strap-ons for the S. Side. Any thing else is over kill.

That one was a piece of shit and was basically recalled by Falcon because of all of issues with it. Get Dave Bingham's books. They will get you the crag and back without issue.

I have crossed it roped and unroped so it depends. When in doubt rope up as it is less weight to carry.

Join the Alpine Club and you can borrow the books from their library.

What ever you do - do not piss in the parking lot. Gotta watch a ranger bust someone for doing that years ago. It was pretty damn funny.

This TR reminds me of a quote by a good friend: We all make dumb decisions. Most of the time we get away with it. But when don't we're dead.

Back from Orygun, will need to ship if interested. Great tent used it on a Hood last weekend. Bomber in da winds.

Back from Orygun, so will need to ship if interested. Make an offer as they are great boots.

Hard ice??? I seriously doubt that it is ice perhaps hard nevé. This statement is not to undermine the idea running belays or the consequences of not using protection but there is huge difference between climbing a slope covered in ice and on covered in nevé.

You really should not need to cache anything at 17k on the West Butt. Going from balcony camp, to the summit, and down to 17k on the Butt is a reasonable but long day. If shit hits the fan at while on the cut off portion of the route just descend to 14k and try again. Further, going up the upper portion of the rib should be pretty light so carrying up and over is not a burden. All you need is a bit of food and fuel for 17k. And if something blows in at 17k and you spend a few days there you can always rob another cache as there will be plenty. One can climb the whole West Butt without food or fuel just rob old caches along the way

I take the old liners out and leave them out and just use the Superfeat.

Just for clarification. Something does not need to deform before it cracks. Bolts hangers take a shock load which is very different loading than a static load. It is all about the energy absorption. As for the issue at hand probably a substandard batch of steel. Which is why QC is so important - trust but verify.

Can you provide some info on it - I know someone who found a watch this morning.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid Headwall Follies Date: 4/27/2013 Trip Report: So today I decided that a run up the Reid Headwall was in order. My partner had bailed because of the winds and other issues so I was solo. I had bivied at Illumination Saddle which was nicely sheltered from the winds that were ripping all night long. I left the saddle with a crack a dawn start of 8am. Once on the Reid the winds were blocked so the climbing was nice with firm snow. At least one if not two other parties had been on the route earlier so I found a few steps here and there. The first chute was straight forward with a reasonable step across the runnel. From there I traversed up to the snow rib where I stowed my ski pole and got out my second tool. Moving up into the second chute* I caught up to another party that had left Illumination Saddle an hour before me. They seemed to be having their fun with dropped screws. Mid way up the chute things cut loose for a good minute. It was a nice shower of grape sized ice pellets. After the clearing the last bit of the chute I continued pretty much straight up and found myself at an unexpected headwall. Hmm, seems I should have exited stage left. I quickly down climbed the slope and moved left and went up another little chute. Okay well that was silly as now I was back at the headwall. Traversing left from up high just did not seem prudent as it was a rimmed up corner. I thought about down climbing again (nothing like running laps midway up a route) and looking for another left turn even lower down but then I noticed some steps out on the ridge line. What the hell lets see where that leads. After traversing some steep runnels with a couple of less than secure plunged axe moves I was on the ridge. This ridge is just to the left of the West Crater Rim and consists of series of steep rimmed steps which eventually joins with the West Crater Rim at approximately 11k. The ridge line was moderate climbing on rime ice and via more runnels. The finial fun was traversing the summit ridge as several times gusts about knocked me over. Going down the old chute was a blast as one could lean into the wind and plunge step down without worrying about falling. I was back at Illumination Saddle at 11am. So three hours round trip from the saddle. Sorry no photos as the wind was ripping by the time I got past the snow rib so taking photos was really a not priority. * I think it was at this "second" chute that left turn was missed for being on the true route. But as noted there are many variations.

Mfox79, yer probably already in Orygun but while weather has been nice the winds are ripping up on the hill this weekend. A great cloud cap show was put on today. The winds on the summit ridge were probably sustained at ~40 mph and could have easily blown someone off balance and down the north face. One of the few times I have been concerned about the traverse along the summit ridge (I came up from West Crater Rim after soling up the Reid Headwall).. Of course coming down from the old chute was a hoot. I just leaned into the wind and plunge stepped down.

More often not June would be more likely. In 2010 it did not open until July 3 but that after a good snow year.