ScaredSilly

Someone needs to do some fact checking. First Winter Solo Ascent: Naomi Uemura; 2/84, West Buttress (died on the descent). First Successful Winter Solo Ascent: Vern Tejas; 3/88, West Buttress. http://www.nps.gov/dena/upload/Climbing-History-Timeline.pdf

Well first you better hope the White River Road is open. Current schedule is for May 23 but that could change. A wet snow could do anything - all depends on the weather between now and then. As for other routes, yes best to have alternatives, as well as other places to climb as May is a real crap shoot.

There is a route up the East Buttress, but there are more than likely variations between that and the headwall. The lower buttress is probably more of your question though. I would guess some have ventured up then bailed left or right up high. That said great photos. Years ago I did SE RIdge and the skied down and ran up Middle Sister. Good fun and great to see folks on other volcanos.

Another twist: http://www.theaustralian.com.au/news/world/machetewielding-maoist-sherpas-threatened-to-attack-climbers/story-fnb64oi6-1226898077050#

Interesting about the road closure and the gate. I never knew snow machines were allowed. I would venture to guess that the road was closed because the NPS does not have anyone to manage that side of the park in winter. While I have never cut a lock I have done other mischievous deeds while in various parks. At MORA one winter we parked at the Carbon Gate and dutifully hiked in. However, given it was a Saturday we expected the Ranger Station to be open. Nope. No self issuing permits either, nothing so we hiked in an played for a few days on the north side. When we came out, we met a few hats. Back then Gaitor running the show but was off and out of the state. They called him anyways, he knows me and knew that I might be in the area but passed the buck to another mutual NPS friend who was at another park. Soon most of my NPS friends wondered about our trip. In the end NPS asked why we did not stop at the station in Wilkeson. What station? We looked an never found one besides for why wasn't the station at Carbon River open? Their response was cause it is the winter. Our response was given it was a weekend would it not seem logical to be where people would have to park? In the end no citation was issued. Hahahaha. At this point I am not sure which was sillier cutting the lock or worrying about damaging the rope. As others have said you really want the knot to be on the skinny rope side. Yer going to spend more time dealing with the man then you would fixing (cutting off) less than an inch of yer rope.

Make yer own. Get a 55lb grain sack from your local home brew shop. They slide well and hold up. Whatever you put in the grain sack have it in stuff sacs that are bineared together. Run webbing from that to your harness. The reason for having everything stuff sacs is just in case the grain sac gets ripped or a hole. Everything is protected.

If ya can not figure it from this ya probably shouldn't be up there :-). http://www.poulinenvironmental.com/poulinenvironmental/Mowich_2006.html

I have done my toes (seriously nipped) and a friend his fingers (bitten). Pretty much screwed for life as the nerves and circulation are compromised. No fun as for me my toes go cold really easily. A good extended cold spell and they go numb and turn gray, a couple days later they are more or less normal. My friend has re-injured the fingers several times.

Very nice …

Kettle met pot .... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1122162 Post Only Your Own Stuff - You may not post anything digital that belongs to someone else without permission. You may not post descriptions of, links to, or methods for stealing someone’s intellectual property (software, video, audio, images), or for breaking any other law. So how do I report the posting of these two images being copyright violations???????? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/5095/filename/ladiestea.jpg http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/5094/filename/oktoberfest-2012-31.jpg The later is copyright: Christof Stache / AFP - Getty Images. You really do not want to screw with Getty Images.

I like to camp at Illumination Saddle. Can be a bit windy but great views. Most people go for just one night I like spending a couple and pluck off a couple routes. Last time we did Leutholds then Sandy Glacier Headwall. For more southerly routes you can go up West Crater Rim and then come down as well.

Plan for any weather condition. Know how to get from the upper part of the hill back to the lift. That bring a map and compass (or GPS). As for a rope - it depends on the ability of your group. Last April having a rope would was nice for the summit ridge as the wind was ripping. People were actually protecting the summit ridge.

Though always sad when the old guard passes, have to admit he lead a full life. We should all be so lucky.

Sad news ... condolences to all.

One of the other bills was to force stream access: http://greateryellowstone.org/issues/water/Feature.php?id=330 http://www.jhnewsandguide.com/opinion/columnists/the_new_west_todd_wilkinson/protection-of-parks-requires-self-restraint/article_6da4626c-8216-59ee-8f07-a11e962f17bb.html#.UvuL5flZItI.gmail The original group American Whitewater who wanted that legislation has withdrawn their support: http://www.americanwhitewater.org/content/Article/view/articleid/31872 So give your legislator the benefit of doubt as to why they objected to the bill. Also they often have limited time to speak. 2minutes on the house floor I believe is the norm.

As others said you probably have the experience to get on LR. Perhaps more so than others whom have tried the route. The real trick is being efficient not just for this route but any mtn. route. Efficient does not mean being ultralight weight. It means being able to move in all conditions. I'll pack the weight of trekking poles because I can use them and move faster over a lot of terrain. Anymore I think the difficulties are often lower down than up high. Getting on the ridge proper seems to be the crux for many. The Carbon can be problematic any time but the lower ridge seems to be a real mix bag. And of course do not discount the shrund at the top - again a mixed bag.

There is really no need per say ... all photos are copyrighted immediately. Something that is well known but ignored by many. Watermarking only makes it easier for enforcement as a watermark is not typically seen in the photo. If I have a photo I know will likely get copied I put a big ole copyright notice boldly on the photos.

Looks like some nice conditions. I always thought that clockwise was the norm. That is the way we went. Been so long that I can not remember the reasons. Sounds like you went CCW - what did you find to be advantageous?

You will be fine with a 0 bag and puffy jackets at the lower altitudes. I would not even take the 30 bag. As for the boots - mixed thoughts. Can you keep them dry for a couple of weeks? That is my typical concern and why I like boots with integral gaiters.

For years I used a crampon patch on my pack. That was pretty much required with old school rigid crampons like foot fangs. With the more recent design of crampons that are rigid but collapse it is much easier to shove them in a pack. So I have one those spiffy pouches to put them in: It serves double duty as once the poons and screws are out as I put the screw sleeves and caps into the pouch. Keeping the sleeves and cap makes it so that I can stow screws in my pack without shredding stuff or damaging the screws.

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30m would work though if you toss gear in and simul climb you will need to pass gear a bit more often.

As said above Jeff Thomas' book Oregon High. Though long out of print really the best guide to the Oregon volcanos. Can be hard to find for a descent price: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0962904201/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

Weather will be anything ... from sun to horizontal piss. Plan for it as that will dictate boots, bags, etc. Nomic ... useless. You want something to cane with as well as plunge. You will make faster progress with an axe and ski pole.

This kid's "endeavor" is nothing compared to this guy's "mission" : http://www.mission14.org Both are "exploiting the exploited" and are a "fallacy of the first".