ScaredSilly

DPS a couple observations, the snow is going. I think freezing levels are going back up this week. The step in pink that they went around we were able to climb directly - though it was rotten snow and ice. Going around it adds time. The snow on the ramp is mostly sun cupped and many other areas. Thus my observation is that the snow fields will get icy but the rocks steps more difficult. There is the step down low but also several up high in the exit gully. The tops of those were like frozen kitty litter when did them. Sans snow or ice, though short they could be really interesting.

Sometimes route finding is just plan dumb luck. As mentioned, we were heading to the Wickwire variation and my partner decided to cut back and viola a simpler way through the rock band - but conditions do change. Ya worked it out.

I think what may have gotten you off route was the fact that you traversed way around to the right then back left at the foot of the first rock band to get past a short but rotten rock step (pink in your picture). If you look at the picture in Fred's book (p123) you went around the buttress where the label "free variation". Just to right of the "Open Book" label is we found a rotten but climbable snow/ice step. That brings one up further along the shelf, then one traverses perhaps another 100/150 feet or so. At that point one starts looking left for the escape (about where the arrow is located). This description is what we wrote for Gaiter in his book and is not the Wickwire variation which is further up and to the right and what we were originally aiming to reach. That said I remember my partner finding the escape ledge and coming up and seeing the first snow field in front of us and knowing where we were and that it would go. Amazing to see so many sun cups - the snow is low.

You need to work yer beer drinking skills more ... last time we did Joe's route we left the saddle at 10am cause my partner admitted half up the the Palmer he was hung over. I made him do Sandy the next day.

Depending on conditions the right hand side is a few technical moves then done or can be a rocky/icy pitch. The left hand side can be like they had with a steep vertical pitch on the serac or like when did it a steep rising traverse. In years past there was even a snow ramp. All depends on what has calved off recently. That said it seems that in the recent past more have gone right than left.

I meant Carbon River. The Carbon River Road is also closed (semi-permanently) at the ranger station. From there it is 5.5 miles to Ipsut Creek Campground. Same road walking distance as the Mowich Lake Road when it is closed. Then you are at the trail to Seattle/Spray Park. Though a bit lower and a bit longer trail walking wise as from Mowich Lake it has the advantage that no car shuttle is required. Note the trail to Mystic Lake by the Whintropt Glacier - one does not go to Mystic Lake but goes most of the way to the Carbon Glacier then drops down onto the trail. http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/Carbon-River_Mowich-Area-Trails-Aug11.pdf

If the Mowich Road is closed my suggestion would be to walk in from Carbon Creek. While it too is approximately 5.5 miles it is an easy walk. From there you can get into Spray Park and camp. From there it is an quick jaunt to the Ptarmigan bivy. On the return descend the Emmons to Streamboat. From there drop down the Whintropt which is usually reasonable crack wise. Join the LR shuffle trail for a bit then down Curtis Ridge where one will hit the trail back to Ipsut Creek. Simple one car. I have down this in various forms for Ptarmigan, Mowich, and Willis.

http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/road-status.htm If you are looking to do something over on the Mowich side go in via the West Side Road and go long, coming down via the DC. If Ptarmigan go in via White River and go long, coming down Emmons. One can also walk the Carbon River road - done that too. For Mowich/Ptarmigan come down the Emmons / Whintropt and pick up the trail going to Mystic Lake.

So while we are waiting for JCA to post his adventure on the Willis I'll provide some entertainment for you all as I have been on the Willis. Though unsuccessful it was an adventure. One early March my friend Brent and I flew into Sea-Tac with all the toys including skis. The gal at the rental car counter said there was no way our skis would fit in the compact car were renting and that we should rent a full sized car. Brent seeing her coifed nails talked her up while talking her out of the need for a bigger car. In the end they gave us a bigger car cause they were out of compacts so she was really trying to up sell us to cover their overages. Next stop REI to get some fuel. Though all we needed was a quart all they had was a gallon of white gas so we bought that. The extra fuel will come in handy later. We drove on up to Carbon River and planned to start our hike from there. Seems there was a small problem. A wash out closed the road. Damn I guess we will walk the road. Hmm next problem, nobody at the Ranger Station. That is odd for a Saturday. I guess we will skip the permit. The lack of permit will cause some issues. The walk in was fine and after a couple of hours we reached Ipsut Creek and got on the trail. We hiked in our shoes until Dick Creek when we finally hit some snow. After camping for night we ditch our shoes, put on boots, and headed up to gain Curtis Ridge and dropped down onto the Carbon. The day turned out to be longer than we thought when finally reached the base of Willis Wall. Some might think pitching a tent near the base would be fool hardy. But fortunately the winter before I had a chance to chat with Jim Wickwire who gave some good thoughts on the wall. As such we chose to climb the left side which is the "least" hazardous. The next morning we awoke early but both Brent and I were a bit knackered (our combined ages are over 100). The wind was blowing and well we decided to take a rest day. Though a rest day we went up and scouted out a route through bergshrund which was wise because it was a bit complex and doing it in the dark even with headlamps would be tricky. After our excursion we headed back to camp. Given we had plenty of rest we got up early and headed up. We easily crossed the bergshrund and started up the wall proper. Our first obstacle was a dead vertical 60 foot ice steep. I took off my pack and started up. Given we had three screws it going to be a fun lead. After clearing the top I placed a picket and hauled our packs up. Brent then came up. At this point we were warmed up and ready for the next bit. A long 1000 foot plus snow/ice chute that was around 45-50 degrees. We simu-climbed the chute placing pickets and screws. In a few places there was an out crop or two for a rest and a place to collect gear. I did much of the leading. After another 500 feet or so, around 11,5k we are up into the rock bands leading into the main buttress. Due to the low amount of snow the buttress was a lot of rock. Fred said there should be 100 feet of rock climbing. Damned if I ever found that and everything was loose. Though we brought a few pins and rock gear hopes of finding a sane way through was looking slim. Though I was up for doing a recce without my pack we had noticed a nice contrail going over the summit. Given that a few years before Brent and I plus another friend spent the night near the summit in horrendous winds that was in June this was March. Valor being the better part of wisdom we decided to bail. We down climbed the snow/ice chute. Built a V-thread and rapped off the step. After traversing the shurd again we were finally back on the Carbon. It was around 2pm. While happy to be off the wall we still needed to get off the Carbon. We decide to go down the eastern side of the glacier thinking it would be faster/easier. Brent started off playing crevasse poodle. And poodle did he play as did I. The cracks while small had weak bridges and were really hard to see. Brent fell into one up to his arms. He got out and took a few steps and went into another. Then it was my turn. At one point we both went to cracks at the same time. Fortunately not the same one. It was a bit disconcerting crawling out of a crack not to see your partner. After recomposing ourselves we just started laughing at the situation and taking bets on who would fall into the most cracks. I can not remember who won. Finally around 4pm we reached the edge of Carbon and were back on the ridge where we found a great bivy spot. As we were setting up the tent the wall cut lose. A huge part of the ice cliff calved off. The whole basin filled with spindrift. I got a few pictures (would post but have no idea where they are). Brent and I looked at each with blank faces and laughed. Epilogue : when we got back to our car the NPS boys were waiting for us. Seemed they got a bit concerned about an abandoned rental car. Gaitor was not around, though they called him to see if had issued an over the phone permit. He knew we were talking about coming up but did not issue a permit. He suggested talking to another mutual NPS friend who was in another park. They knew nothing of our plans. It was all humorous to us but not to the rangers. We explained that there was no one at Carbon River to issue permits so we went in anyways. They finally said okay and let us go on our way. Oh and that extra white gas - we poured that into the rental car and turned it back in.

Pretty sure, Bronco was posting somewhat in jest but given many people going up have never used crampons or an ice axe, so the point is more of look out and do not get under anyone. After coming down the chute I typically move to the west so that no one is above me. At that point the danger is falling ice - which is more predictable and less of a hazard than falling climbers.

Now, now be nice to out of state visitors. But there are not really any technical portions on the south side via the old chute unless the wind is really blowing then the summit ridge can be exciting.

FWIW, it seems like about once or twice a year folks post up something about taking a cat ride to the top of the Palmer. Last year I saw a huge group taking it up to Silcox Hut. Typically what seems to happen is that folks never find many (any?) takers. Mostly because it saves at best a couple of hours and is expensive. Also given you are planning for mid week (which is smart, climbing wise) you will probably have few takers. That said if coming all that way why not plan to camp at the Saddle and do a couple of routes?

My guess is that they stopped at 12,800 because one or more of the climbers was having altitude issues and/or were way behind schedule. Most seem to get stuck at bergshrund at the top. That said I read today that the NPS is unsure if they were hit by an avalanche while camped at 12,800 or climbing or fell climbing and then buried by an avalanche.

From the Seattle Times article posted above: At this point it is unclear if due a snow avalanche or serac fall or climbing fall. That said, given they have mentioned seeing tents I have assumed they were hit by an avalanche during the night.

I think a question to ponder is whether it was a snow avalanche or due to ice fall off of Liberty Cap. I have also seen it reported that it was a climber fall. Either a sad situation and outcome.

In all of the new info regarding the LR accident I found this post from the AAI blog (http://www.alpineascents.com/rainier-blog.asp) to be interesting: Matt Hegeman just called with an update from our Liberty Ridge crew on Mt. Rainier. The road to White River trailhead has not officially opened to the public, but the Mt. Rainier NPS was gracious enough to make sure our group was able to drive to the trail head, saving about 7 miles of road walking each way. Gee I wonder if the park will open the road to other climbers???

Did you see this TR? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1123681/TR_North_Sister_South_Ridge_5_#Post1123681 The traverse around to the bowling alley and up to the summit is often far more technical and exposed than many expect. The bowling alley can get icy.

FWIW, many climbers hit Liberty Cap and call it good enough. At the same time many climbers reach the rim but do not walk over to Columbia Crest.

Nice to see folks going up from da north. Sunshine is a nice route with fun sections.

The first month I was in the gym I got scolded multiple times because of my belay technique. For good measure I back clipped a few times. At least I caught the z-clip (3 foot bolt spacing)

Thanks for sharing the day's event. I am sure it was hard to write. Hopefully it will bring some peace.

I would answer by saying that you have climbed in the past but have not climbed in the past two years but once. If you agent is descent they will not press the issue.

I went through that years ago. First, be truthful. Oddly enough for me the fact that I climbed regularly was a plus (I was considered an expert but not a professional). Note the difficulty that you regularly climb and that you wear a helmet, use ropes, and other gear like a harness, never solo, etc. As for the 13k cap - if you have not gone above it do NOT mention future plans. Only what you have previously done.

Yikes - the update from the link above: "Another climber who witnessed the fall, which happened at about 8 a.m., said the man was on the summit when he fell through a cornice to his death." "searchers located the body on the Eliot Glacier headwall, in a crevasse" "He was from the East Coast and climbing with three other people"

Bummer, props to the two for doing an early season ascent. Too bad it ended as it did. As said in the article many people have fallen from Denali Pass usually with same results. Gotta kept yer wits about ya on that traverse.