bstach

Lol @ "They are heavy"...yes, compared to leaving the large gear at home and looking for a smaller placement, they are heavy. Compared with carrying double #4 and double #5 camalots they are good value for the weight. I agree with your advice overall though. Best bet is to just take less gear. Chose climbs within your ability so you don't need to sew it up and can climb through to those smaller placements. Much more enjoyable that way.

Trying to bring an old tent back to life. If you have any old poles lying around from a dead/retired tent, I would be delighted to take them off your hands. I am in the Vancouver, Canada area and can pick them up. Otherwise, I am happy to send you some money for shipping (I have a shipping address in Blaine so no customs hassle). PM me

YES! I love my hexes for this and carry #8, #9 and #10 hexentrics. Of course I usually get sprayed on when i suggest it here - i think by people who can't place anyting but a cam. Also I get the "Needs more cowbell" jokes on the trail.

You can buy iron-on nylon patches. They don't stay on forever, but whatever, they just iron back on.

After a summer of borrowing gear or climbing on partners racks I started with: -1 set of BD nuts -Metolius TCU #1 and #2 (I recommend the TCU in the smaller sizes) -Metolius Power Cam #3, #4 and #5 -#1 and #2 Camalot This is the perfect balance of what you need to get started and not breaking the bank, imo. Over the subsequent years I picked up: -#3 and #4 camalot (which I rarely place) -#1 and #2 Rigid friends I picked up at a gear swap and had re-slung (doubles for finger size cracks) -#8, #9, #10 and #11 Hexentrics (picked up at a gear swap) I LOVE my hexes!!! Great way to double up on larger sizes without breaking the bank or weighing you down on those alpine approaches. They also provide a secure placement where nothing else will (like inward flaring cracks). Just put a long sling on them. Nobody has mentioned it here yet, but I know alot of people like tri-cams for this same reason. Pink seems to be a popular size. Good luck

60-70 degrees this weekend...too hot for lycra?

Nice rack. What route are you doing that needs two#5, two #4, two #3 ....

+1 on what Gene said. Also post up in the partners section for a more experienced climber to take you out. This can shorten the learning curve quite a bit.

My wife and I and 5 year old son will be camping and climbing at Smith Mar 29-April 1st (Easter long weekend). Would love to connect with another family to hang out and share belaying and child corralling/entertaining. We will be driving down from Vancouver (Canada). pm me

Great explanation here of why BD doesn't use extendable slings. In a nutshell they found it fails at lower loads and may mangle the thumb loop on big whippers.

They won't survive 20 years in prison. Or at least his name will get changed to "Ben Dover"

He's livin on a prayer

Its my understanding they did that because the LEM wasn't ready yet.

The truth is most mountain gear is sold to middle class posers who wear it to cross the street from Macy's to JC Penny. Remember to thank them for creating an economy of scale that allows you to purchase cheap gear.

'ere

My 5 year old son learned all the Provinces and their Capitals by listening to Stompin Tom's "The Capitals Song" and "My Stompin Grounds".

Stompin Tom Connors [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZWQ8GPdJ18 [video:youtube] [video:youtube] [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTLlREVZvQQ

PBS Off Book thinks so

I thought this thread was going to be about TTK.

I'm looking for ideas for my 6 year old's science fair project. Thanks for the idea...this should get him an 'A+' If he's the payload, you'll all be famous. Perhaps we will do the space suit this year and the rocket next

I'm looking for ideas for my 6 year old's science fair project. Thanks for the idea...this should get him an 'A+'

If I scope every hold on my climb with a camera mounted on a RC chopper, and then send it, is it still considered "onsite"? Perhaps the legislature is trying to head off this controversy before it lights up the interwebs. PS Some great footage in the OP, makes me want to go out and buy one of those. (still legal in Canada as far as I know)

Then you will want to crank down the apetuer a few stops.

"Researchers also discovered a hidden benefit to sitting in economy class: The textile seat covers absorb up to half a fart's smell; first-class leather seats offer no such advantage"

Perhaps your google-fu is better than mine.