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Everything posted by bstach
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Oly, how about a "gear review" article on this?
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Found a link to strategic shoveling on the Canadian Avalanche Center web site: strategic shoveling I took an avalanche safety course about 10 years ago and don't recall any teaching or practise on strategic shoveling. Heavy emphasis on pits and beacon searches though. Yet, according to the article, much more time will be spent on digging than beacon searches. Curious if mountaineering schools are putting more emphasis on this now? How many of you have actually received training on this and have practised digging techniques?
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The crux moves in question are 5.9-ish (imo) right off the belay ledge and bolt protected, though there will be a bit of a pendulum fall if you blow it. If I remember correctly, you can stand on the bolt and get a nut in above you. Or you could get Pat to lead it. Please post a pic when you get back.
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Go do The Black Orpheus. Long, fun day out, mostly easier than 5.9. And you can simul-climb the middle pitches up to the headwall to make the day a bit shorter. Now i remember there is a descent that involves two full rope length raps (also south facing so prob won't be snow). Avoid the descent for Solar Slab as thats the one that may have snow on it. Swain describes several descents, i am recommending the one with the 'typewriter ball' as a trail marker. Exposed climbing, but comfy belay ledges all the way up. Pic looking back on the belay ledge from the final pitch:
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At the moment, snow camping is possible in my back yard. I'm in Vancouver (Canada) though. YMMV.
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I only bolt when raiding ancient Egyptian tombs. Thats the only acceptable time to place bolts.
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My favorites: *Chrimson Chrysalis is a classic. But very popular, get there early. *The Black Orpheus - probably my most favorite climb in Red Rocks, fine exposed situations and good value for the grade. South facing. Descent may have some snow in it, best to check w locals *Frogland (popular), easy walk off descent *Epinephrine - another classsic, haven't done it, but on my tick list
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I posted my T3s on the Mountain Equipment Coop online gear swap for $75 and sold them the next day amid multiple responses. Makes me think I probably could have gotten more.
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I was doing some research to decide if I should hang on to my Ortovox F1 Focus and came across this article that indicated the Alpine Club Of Canada now requires digital beacons for all club sponsored trips. What does the CC brain trust think of this? It seems to come down to the condition of the unit and the skill of the user. What do you all think? Would you go into the back country will someone using an analog beacon?
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Can you explain the relevance of Harrison Ford from Return of the Jedi to this discussion?
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Is the F1 Focus compatible with the most recent tranceivers? Would I still be able to find my buddies and vice versa?
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I haven't skiied in the backcountry for quite a few years now. I have an old pair of Scarpa T3 telemark boots (size 11) and an old Ortovox F1 Focus tranceiver. I am wondering if I would be able to sell these still or are they pretty much museum pieces now?
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To add to this: Canadians go to the US to get non-medically neccessary procedures done - for which their provincial medical plans don't pay: Gastric bands, cosmetic surgery, or to jump the queue for non-emergent care such as hip or knee replacement (those that can afforsd it). Any "catastrophic" or essential care will be taken care of at home and paid for by our government health plan. Yes, sometimes people have to wait a long time to get their hip replacement. This is the price we pay as a society for providing everyone with free, basic healthcare regardless of their ability to pay. We're having our own political clusterfuck over to what extent private care should be allowed (no politician wants to touch this hot potatoe), but that is a totally different issue.
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I'd contribute to the Kickstarter
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Spray has been sucking hard lately. So much bitching and whining. Perhaps its the weather. Popular Science Best of Whats New is out. What do you all think of the Neverware Juice Box? Or Waze? Or the Brunton Hydrogen Reactor? Any other gadgets catch your eye? Any cool stuff that PS missed?
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Clearly none of you have been to Amsterdam.
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Canadian Member of Parliament proposing a new "Species NOT Endangered" list. Link to interview under the picture of the gulls press the ‘listen’ button (only 4 minutes long) You gave to admit he has some good points.
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I would like to head to RR first week in Dec (Nov 29-Dec 6)and need a partner. Thats outside of your window, I know, but if you are flexible... Black Orpheus is one of my favorite climbs in RR. Excellent value for the grade. And Epinephrine is on my tick list too.
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what kind of "bad shit" could you do with it? Lots of examples of shit you could do with genetic engineering. Like breed a three-assed monkey. Huge improvement over single-assed monkeys. Or splice Squirrel genes with Provalone cheese. Think about it. Never again would have to look in two places for a squirrel and Provalone. Edit: Thanks to genetic engineering pioneer Dr. Alphonse Mephesto for these ideas
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Jebus, I thought the classic climb at J-Tree had collapsed.
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Ravens on Mt Baker unzipped my backpack and stole my meat and cheese (while we were off practising skills). Fuckers just left me ichiban.
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Yes, thank you Rob and Tvash for the correction on that. I found this web site that provides some analysis of voluntary labeling And the Wiki page on Food libel
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What burden of proof is required of the producer to be allowed to label as non-GMO. Perhaps too much for small producers?
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I always thought it was not legal in the USA to label food as "non GMO" or "GMO free". Something to do with "food disparagement" laws. Am I mistaken? Perhaps I've been watching too many documentaries about how bad our industrial food production is and can no longer keep the facts straight.
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Beer copter was first! But the ultimate would be a copter that brings your texbook with a beer and a taco.
