Sherri

Dinosaur cake? Yum. Least they could have done was to bake a fresh one.

Thanks. I love you guys.

I bet all that mechanical brawn would impress Arch, for sure. I'd name him "Boomer."

Shoot, now I've got to get a tape measure for my rack, too?? Rather than specific intervals, my question had to do with whether it was best to aim for a placing a lot of gear within the first 10-20 feet, or best to get a ways off the ground before considering a placement as it would be the most effective protection against groundfall. It's been quite helpful to have some of the subtleties of placement pointed out(single vs. multi, efficiency vs. effectiveness, fall factors, whether it's the first time leading the route, etc) because I wasn't sure what else to base my choices on, other than the availability of good stances. The trad leading is still quite new to me, so I figured now's the time to pay attention to this stuff in order to establish a good base of skills that will serve me well in years of climbing to come. Thanks again.

Does it have curtains?

Sounds like your buddy scored. Yes, it seems like a good idea to keep looking, that there's still deals to be had. Too bad that Synchro on ZimZam's link is already sold. That would have been rad, except where's the kitchenette and curtains?

Thanks for the link Oly. My search hadn't turned up anything. I'll check that out. Yeah, the price for that mileage raised a red flag for me, too, but I thought it might be based either on a supply/demand thing(not many of those come up for sale 'round these parts) or on the assumption that these things keep going and going(like old Toyota's or Honda's). Looks like the relationship may be more short-lived than I had hoped.

I'm considering the purchase of a 1995 Euro which seems to be in nice shape mechanically and cosmetically, but with 210,000 miles already on her, I'm wondering how long I can realistically expect this relationship to last. Do these things just run forever? I'd like to take her out on weekends, show her around all my favorite climbing places, spend quality time together, but I don't want to get my heart broke if she's not going to be there for me in the long run. Her seller(private party) is asking $14,000. Seems pricey, but maybe she's worth it?

I'm glad I asked. Thanks all! G-Spotter and Rob, those points hit the nail on the head. It hadn't occured to me to differentiate between the best stategy for a single pitch vs. for a multipitch. I was treating them both the same, I think, just thinking a lead was a lead. Perhaps that's where my confusion was coming from, as sometimes it seemed to make sense to put in a piece ASAP(particularly on multi's where the belayer was on a ledge) whereas at other times(usually singles) it felt fine to get a few moves up before looking around. So, what I'm taking from this is: the idea of a firing good piece early on multi's doesn't necessarily contradict the efficiency gained by going that extra move or two before placing the first gear on the singles. I'm getting the picture now. Also, it's good to be reminded about that increased fall factor at the beginning of the pitch(I did read that somewhere when I first started, but it wasn't the basis for my placement choices.) When the climbing was solid, I think I was resisting sewing up the earlier segments because it seemed like a fine line between doing that and falling into a pattern of "panic placements" (basing the choices on fear of risking a long fall rather than on reasonable estimations of where gear was actually needed). Never thought about moving up the gear with me, CBS. Interesting proposition. I'll put that in the memory banks for Classic Crack.

I've been getting conflicting advice about this: "You're wasting your time if you place anything within the first 15 feet," or "Place early and often, you want get in at least 5 pieces in the first 20 feet of climbing." The voice in MY head says to shoot for the first piece at the first good stance, even if it's only 10 feet from the belay, then, if it feels good, run another 10 feet or so before looking to put in the second piece. My rationale is that while the first piece will not stop me from decking, it will stop me from skidding past my belayer by an extra few yards(assuming there's a slope or ledge behind them). But this first piece(regardless of it's true value) makes me comfortable going a little further before placing anything else, so by the time I'm 20 feet up, maybe I've only got two pieces in. So, I seem to be on the wrong side of either piece of advice. If this isn't a sound practice for reasons unbeknownst to me as of yet, I'd like to be enlightened at this impressionable stage in my lead-climbing development(so as not to inadvertently ingrain any bad habits which could later haunt me. skull ) What do most folks consider "ideal" spacing/frequency for first placements? (I'm talking moderate trad lines here, where there's usually possibilities early on in the route.)

Learn from my mistakes. Trailrunning is my main thing, but now I also roadbike and swim for cardio to balance things out. Used to just run, run, run, with no stretching or anything "soft"(ie -yoga, massage, trigger point therapy, etc) then got some nasty injuries in my back and hamstring. Not fun. Taught me some good lessons, though. Now I'm stronger AND longer(ie-flexibility and relaxed muscles). Sounds like you're getting it figured out, too. We all learn in our own ways, in our own time.

Looks like these guys LOVE to run, too. Too much. I think you're onto something with your research, I_like. Asking some good questions. Too much of any one exercise is likely to be counterproductive eventually. Running is a particularly slippery slope--those endorphins are suweeht-- but even yoga has it's share of overachievers who push too hard and pay the price. If you want to play hard, you've got to rest hard. No matter how much "mass" you acquire, a shortened, fatigued muscle is weak. Long is strong.

Shouldn't that be, "Kill it now, AAAARGH!"

Pffft. I'm worth WAY more than that.

Only if you smoke them.

I bet you smell yummy, too.

You go, baby! Don't be afraid to blow your own horn. As for the sprout subject, I'm a fan of home-grown, too. It's nice to mix your own blend of seeds(alfafa, mung bean, radish, etc) and sprout 'em all together.

Soak the beans overnight in water, but don't cook them in that same water; drain and cook in fresh water. (Here's the scientific version, from KitchenSavvy.com: "If beans give you gas, you can reduce the effect somewhat by discarding the soaking water. Flatulence is caused by large carbohydrate molecules that pass through the stomach and upper intestine undigested. Once they enter the lower intestine, the natural bacteria found there break these long molecules up, creating carbon dioxide and hydrogen gases. Those long molecules are about 1/3 complex sugar molecules called oligosaccharides and 2/3 other carbohydrates that hold the cell walls together. The oligosaccharides are water soluble and most, but not all, of them will be discarded with the soaking water. The others are not water soluble and remain in the beans after soaking. Prolonged cooking, until the beans are completely softened, helps to break down most of the remaining molecules that cause flatulence.") And don't stand upwind of anyone, just in case.

Divorce.

werd on the yoga. I just started this year, but I love it. It can be even harder than other types of workouts, especially when you have to hold a pose for more a bit. Since the poses engage stuff you neglect in everyday life, they really get in there and make you work. The balancing poses are a fun challenge, too. Good for focusing and grounding yourself.

It had to be said--didn't see a category for that.

I'm just in it for the chicks.

Painted toenails, maybe?

I knew that. I was just testing to see if you knew it.

Potenticolori-wha?? Now I know why I avoided chemistry.