Sherri

Beautiful, Tvash!

That's a nice one of Midway, Matt. Better than the wavy lines drawn up the low-res photos in the current Kramer book. BTW, I prefer taking the "variation" line in your Midway topo. I like how it avoids the rope drag of going under that first roof. Yeah, it's a sacrifice to miss the chimney section that comes afterward, but the the extra exposure of MD and neat traverse back onto Midway proper at the old piton ring are a good trade off. Did you draw up that topo?

anyone know of a place to find a more detailed topo for it than the ones in Kramer's book?

It's funny, I was justing asking CBS about Cat Burgler and he recommended aiding that first move on the route. Good job getting off the ground cleanly! Thanks. I think my shins would have rather done it with aid. The moves on the rest of the route weren't particularly straightforward(balancy traverse, sparse pro, etc), but they were certainly less painful. I think you made the right call taking your chances on R&D. I really enjoy that one, especially the chimney bit.

We got caught in the Castle Rock Traffic Jam, as well. Seeing that the starts of Midway and Saber were stacked with people in matching orange shirts(?), we opted for the wide-open Cat Burglar route. I left most of my shin skin on that start . The rest of the route was spicy but interesting and went quickly. Our progress came to a screeching halt at Saber ledge, however. We neglected to factor in that it converges with Saber at that point. Oh well, win some lose some. Got to second Angel for the first time later that day. That's a sweet crack! KKK, congrats on your R&D send. Sounds like you gave your "clients" a terrific experience and enjoyed a fine day out. That route gets my vote for the worst walk-off in the Icicle. I don't think that there really is a descent trail there, at least not one that deserves to be called a "trail." It's nasty even in approach shoes.

No thanks. You'd just be in the way.

I think she made that one up. Sounds fun though.

Liar, liar, pants on fire. Builder, that first pitch of Roger's Corner is sweet. I wouldn't sandbag a newbie leader(I'm too close to being one myself.) You can always follow it first and decide for yourself. True, Arch hates it. Maybe I just like weird climbs. Arch, I think the short one you're talking about over by Toxic is "Corner Flash," 5.7. You're right, that was fun. I don't remember it well enough to say whether it would make a good lead, but it's one I'd definitely take a shot at next time we're out. "Who Put the Purr in My Pussy" was awesome, too. The approach was the crux, wasn't it? Arch, I only lie to you because you bring out my dark side.

I didn't know either. Schedule's been crazy and weather has been toying with me. I'm hoping to pull something together, though.. I don't know where I'm staying yet, but I'll find you if I'm around.

Down the road I would consider this. I understand that the classes at the wooden boat center are fun and that you can bring your kit to class and get help. Of course, I would bring my kit and my super Sherri to get a leg up on everyone else--but it all sounds pretty darn fun! Me and my tools are at your beck and call, darlin. You bring the paddle.

I'm planning to be around in Leavenworth on Sunday. I lead 5.7-8 there, follow 10's. Haven't been on anything in Snow Creek yet, but have done a handful of the easier moderates on Castle. I'm energetic, but I don't do alpine starts. If you don't get a better offer, give me a shout(I check PMs regularly).

I found Roger's Corner(1st pitch)to be a good newbie lead, also. Get a couple good jams(w/good pro) in that intial crack, and the rest is just some blocky fun. I think guidebook says it's 5.7, and you can rap from anchors at top of 1st pitch.

Cool, Arch! Any sport requiring skirts and paddles is bound to be fun.

Time to cash my dividend check on that new #5 C4 cam. Look out offwidths, here I come!

Nice, CBS! I was in RR last week and the place was alive with color, flowers of blooming faster than the hummbingbirds could get to 'em. It was like walking through a painting. Congrats on your 5.9 onsight.

Unless you're the lead dog, the scenery never changes.

Funny, I thought the North Pole was bigger than that.

I just picked up an Osprey Daylite and test drove it on a couple RR multi's this weekend. It was light, had comfy mesh shoulder straps that didn't constrict climbing movement, and had pockets on the sides for water bottles. We easily fit in two pairs of shoes, two down vest-type jackets and snacks for two people. Only thing it lacked was external loops for clipping things to the outside, had we wanted to. But it still did the job just fine. I almost got the Bullet--liked its compact profile and light weight-- but it seemed a tad small for what I like to take up a multi(I get cold easily, so I bring lots of insulation) and the fit of the shoulder straps seemed strange.

Are people still using their nalgene bottles after all the hoopla about them releasing evil chemicals into their contents?

That's it. I'm leaving.

You're welcome. I enjoyed the details of the different routes. I've only been to Smith a couple times, and was only leading sport then, so as a new trad leader myself I'm thinking I'll be following in your footsteps next trip down there. Keep up the good work and example.

Beautiful climbers, indeed! Great TR, Saragrace. Congrats on your first gear lead.

I'd need a bigger dog for that.

Were there tornados??!

Are you folks using the Silent Partner with the rope in a backpack, or with the long loops of rope clipped to your harness as shown in the manual? I can see where there'd be pros and cons to each method. Mainly, I was curious as to what you do for "backup" if you're using the backpack feed. Seems like that method precludes any sort of backup system?