KirkW

I'm glad to hear that Mt Hood has finally been moved to Washington. Did they take Portland with it?

If it takes you 10m of rope to build an anchor, you're doing it wrong. Buy hey, if you don't want to use the strongest and most dynamic piece of gear that you've already got with you and instead haul along a bunch of unnecessary crap that doesn't work as well, go for it!

Yes, waivers are available but the production company Uncage the Soul productions that works for Oregon Field Guide didn't apply for the waivers nor is anyone shown operating them in their promotional videos licensed to operate one according to information on file with the FAA as of two months ago or so. Totally illegal but no one gives a shit. I'd encourage you to contact the FAA and the FS and let them know what you think. If you like talking to a brick wall To be clear, I'm not insinuating that the dork in Water's photo is associated with OPB or anyone else. I assume he's probably just a motivated amateur that doesn't know or doesn't care about the rules. And why would he when there are examples all around us of people using drones illegally and no one saying a thing?

No, you can't launch a drone from the top of the Palmer legally. Or from anywhere within the wilderness boundary. Of course that doesn't stop OPB, or anyone they decide to hire, from using them wherever and whenever they want. (See their Ice Caves episode from a while back or more recently their "expedition" through Hyperbole Canyon) If they don't have to follow the rules and instead get to make a pile of money through "donations" off the footage they get flying drones, helicopters and small aircraft in wilderness areas all over the state then I guess it's to be expected that everyone else would feel entitled to fly them wherever they want as well. Before you think about "taking out" a drone you might want to look at the laws and punishments that would apply to such an act. Drones are considered aircraft and shooting one down would be considered the same as shooting at any other aircraft, manned or not, according to the incorrigible bureaucrat I spoke with at the FAA regional office they have in Portland a few months ago. As much as I agree with your sentiment Water I'd hate to lose a ski partner because he was doing a stint in federal prison for blasting someone's toy out of the sky. The gentleman I spoke with this morning at Tline as I was snapping this picture made it clear that they do not tolerate ANY use of drones within their permit area and that they would push to prosecute the operator to the fullest extent the law allows if they catch you. If you saw him operating that piece of shit within Tlines boundaries I'd suggest reporting him to them and let their lawyers go after him. If he only used it in the wilderness then I wouldn't expect a response from the Feds. The FAA will be happy to take your complaint but they won't do a damn thing about it based on my past experience. They seem to have the same level of concern about drones in wilderness as the FS does about snow machines...

That cartoon is anything but awesome. More Like debunked bullshit that's been parroted throughout the climbing community for years. Nice shameless self promotion though. There's tons of info on the "quad" or the "equalette" online. Also... Read John Long's very popular book "Climbing Anchors." Then realize that it's all really just mental masturbation and go back to using the damn rope for multipitch. It's the strongest, most dynamic and versatile piece of gear you carry with you. Use it. Leave the rest of that shit at home unless you're ropegunning for someone and don't want to untie at the belay. If "equalization" is your big concern there's plenty of ways to pretend to do that with nothing but the rope. The dynamic nature of your main lifeline will give you far better "equalization" than any piece of static line or runner ... no matter how you tie them together. I can't believe that the "quad" is a new concept for you guys. Welcome to 2016 CC.

I've got no specific beta for you but since you're not being flooded with posts... Here's what both of them looked like today from Hoodoo. Hoodoo was boot deep slush everywhere but the groomers at 9:00 this morning. Skied really well for slush though. Would love to see a TR if you do either!

OPB hit the jackpot on this one. Hyped it up for weeks then dropped it just before a pledge drive. Smart. The show seemed more like bad reality television than journalism to me but cool to know this spot is in my back yard. I wonder how long until Dan Helmstadter skis it?

Hey...don't go taking the wind out of my sails like that...we were just getting up a good head of steam! So which one of you cock suckers is voting for Trump?

link ... Interesting that Oly had a meltdown and told me to leave around the same time for having the absolute AUDACITY to question his authority. Reading that thread now it seems like maybe he just needed a hug? Instead I lied and told him I'd be gone for good but I always knew I'd be back to lurk spray once election season rolled around. You can't get this kind of commentary anywhere... even on cable. Nope, I just got sick of your shit, so I let you know that. I wouldn't miss it a bit if you never posted here again, and that still holds true. That you're back is no surprise though, you think you're a unique snowflake in that regard? Lied? Hahahahah, you couldn't stay away if you tried. Go ahead, try it. I see a few others must have gotten sick of my shit and left too ... given the traffic around this place. A unique snowflake is something I've never claimed to be but go ahead and think you know me and put words in my mouth...we all know how good you are at twisting things around to fit whatever the voices in your head tell you to think. Seriously though...have you published that list of protected posters who are given the latitude to say whatever they want on here without fear of the ban hammer? I'm curious as it looks like you're still enforcing the rules willy nilly and giving out reprimands with the consistency of a cheap AM radio. Cheer up! Looks like several unique snow flakes are back. Maybe someone will post something in the main forum worth reading one of these days? Not me, I promise to keep it to spray from this point forward. You have my word. I'm just here for the laughs. :kisss:

link ... Interesting that Oly had a meltdown and told me to leave around the same time for having the absolute AUDACITY to question his authority. Reading that thread now it seems like maybe he just needed a hug? Instead I lied and told him I'd be gone for good but I always knew I'd be back to lurk spray once election season rolled around. You can't get this kind of commentary anywhere... even on cable.

Still rockin' duder! Might even start climbing again after hunting season is over. Of course those elk steaks go straight to my ass Incidentally, I've been re-purposing my copy of "Into Thin Air" every morning while doing the duty. It's kinda abrasive but I can't figure out what else it's good for?

Really? Even those that were there and wrote books about it don't agree with that statement! Every account of those events differs but you KNOW what actually happened up there? Please explain...? You've got to be shitting me! Most of the people involved were inexperienced high altitude tourists, with minimal alpine climbing experience. And most of them were simply incapable of taking care of themselves when the shit hit the fan. And the fact they still tell general public they don't know what happened just proves the fact of lack of experience. It has been sliced and diced in so many articles, I think your comment shows utter ignorance of the subject matter. My, my ...you really are a prickly turd aren't you? How you could assume me to be utterly ignorant of the subject matter based on my last post is also a curiosity...? Unless you assume that anyone who disagrees with you is ignorant? I think your hubris regarding your knowledge of these events shows a lack of rational thought and perhaps just a bit too much emotional attachment. Or maybe you're just an asshole? Since you seem to have it all figured out... I'll leave you with your certainty. Enjoy it!

Really? Even those that were there and wrote books about it don't agree with that statement! Every account of those events differs but you KNOW what actually happened up there? Please explain...?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bend_Glacier

His mother posted on his FB page that they are planning a memorial at the Corvallis Airport on November 7th.

Too soon my friend, far too soon. From his Facebook page... [video:youtube]

Kenny, I tried to read all that but I'm a bit preoccupied with seam sealing my 4 season tent and fluffing my 8000 meter parka for my planned technical ascent of 3FJ next month. Later I'll be waterproofing my copy of FOTH. Can never be too safe on these deadly volcanos Would anyone like to split the cost of a donkey? I've hiked that boring section through the burn a number of times and I'd rather just get to the spicey stuff.

Try the search feature.

Damn. Talk about hitting the conditions perfect...

Sorry to ruffle your feathers. Have fun on your trip Joe.

Well Joe, if you want to tell us that the south side is a technical climb I'm not going to stop you. I'm sure you'll find plenty of people to agree with you. You can find them standing around someplace near the hogsback dressed in shorts over polypro, sniffing sulfur and poking holes in their gators with rented crampons. They will be lashed together with 40 pounds of 11mm rope and will have no problems with dispensing sage mountain advice to those less (or more) skilled. Whether you want it or not. On the other hand, walking a few hundred yards past the ski lift and dropping down off the moraine will put you out of eye sight of the lifts and give you a much more pleasant experience if you decide that you actually want to climb the mountain rather than skip all that boring walking in favor of those spicy technical sections. Of course, you knew this already since you certainly have this sweet new invention called "Map" right? Hope you guys have a great bulldozer ride and thanks for the tourist dollars! Mods: Perhaps Joe would get the answers he seeks if this was moved to the Oregon forum and better yet condensed into the running sticky thread mysteriously labeled "Mt. Hood"?

What technical portion? If riding a bulldozer to 9k and slogging for a couple more hours up a beat out boot track sounds like a swell use of vacation time than by all means...

Not to discourage anyone's generousity as I think this is as good a reason as any to donate... but according to this guides blog... "The Sherpas are covered by insurance that all operators pay as required by the government of Nepal, this amount was increased by 10x for this season. " It sounds like the Sherpas are (justifiably) concerned that they may end up not seeing much of that money however. The above blog makes base camp sound like a pretty intense place to be right now.

We didn't encounter a single mosquito

Skied Diamond on Friday. Road is wide open to P Gulch TH and I'd assume will be open to Corigan TH soon if not already. Snow line was at about 5700 and retreating fast. Lots of sluffs from earlier in the week but we observed no instability in the snow pack despite our late arrival time on the summit. We skied some creamy corn for the first 1200ft or so. Fat man making parallel turns on tele gear... (Telemarking is stupid and I need to start climbing again ) It turned to soup near the bottom of the bowl and improved only slightly when we made it back to the much welcome shade of the trees. Made for an interesting exit. Go earlier or move faster