geoff

Funniest TR I saw about Diedre was from a guy that found a camera at its base, delevoped the photos and posted them on the net along with snide comments about each photo and the folks in them. Best thing was that one of the guys had a Climb Max shirt on. Sweet route though. Get it during the week for sure. Oh, well there's also Uncle Tricky's TR that is f-ing great. Here's a link to the site. http://www3.telus.net/public/7394243/climbing/squamish/lostfound/lostfound.html

Beacon is open. Climbed there Sat.

BBC should have banned the entire thing - 'cause it sucks.

This is the time when the leader can rest, have a drink, maybe some snacks, roll a smoke or two. If you have a solid anchor, and you are relatively sure the second will not need to be lowered, why not use autoblocks?

Yea, he shone like the sun.

Here are some shots of the SF of Wash. Column. Mike on P3. The ledge. Mike on P4 Din. Ledge in the background. Mike on P6.

Ben's kickin ass. Very cool.

5 falls? How the funk do you only get 5 falls when similar width ropes get 11?

Chris, you want to chime in here? I'd love to hear the full scoop.

Trip: Yosemite - Many Date: 5/18/2009 Trip Report: Just back from a week in Yosemite with a large Oregon contingent. Thanks to Bill, Ujhan, Adam, Mike, Ben, Chris and Becky for good times. MikeR and I got on the South Face of Washington Column but were foiled by two lads from Weed and had to retreat from the top of Pitch 6. At least they had a bottle of wine, although it was white. Good thing we weren't in a hurry to get down as a three-man team below us beat us to the retreat and took for freaking ever to rap. Next we headed to El Cap to check on Ben and Chris. They will have to post their own TR as they were on the hunt for an elusive big wall. Wanted to climb to El Cap tree but other parties on the Trip held us back a bit. We climbed the first pitch of NA Wall instead and came back for El Cap Tree the next day. Saw a young bear near our stashed gear but it didn't mess with our stuff. The folks on the Trip were getting the drip and spent much of the next day at our anchor. This forced us to start way late and then retreat from near the Native Son anchors. Figured we better do some free climbing so we hit up the Grack, Harry Daily, Knob Hill, Jam Crack (w/ marching band-awesome addition to the climb-thanks to the musicians) and After Six. It's getting hot down there. Better get on it. Gear Notes: So much shit we could barely carry it all, minus portaledge left in PDX by mistake. Seriously though, offset nuts were used frequently along with hybrid aliens and a rope protector came in handy for jugging the Kor Roof pitch on Wash. Column. Approach Notes: Wash Column - long steep hot. El Cap - east side - long steep hot.

Just back from the big ditch. Sure had fun. Moving the Legend sounds like fun too. I have a truck and could help when help is needed.

I never said all poor folks were methies. I'm just saying the fee is a tool so the po po has a objectively reasonable basis for a meet and greet.

Seems like an alright way to keep the Meth Heads out of there. Isn't it just $1 more to camp at the bivy when you have to pay $3 to park anyhow?

Watch this.

I did some unnamed aid routes too. However, they did have free climb names. One was Classic Crack and the other Sheer Stress. Also rope soloed CC, sorta, and climbed Sheer Energy, sorta. I'm weak. Best part though was watching a strong dude from Stone Works cruise up the Red Wall with ease. Free soloed up past the anchor for CC on Thai Stick maybe and then up Kasmir.

Rookie

Anyone headed that way? Have gas money. Could also use a climbing partner for easy wall climb, like S. Face Wash Column. Send me a PM. Thanks.

It's all fun and games until you're carrying around a bag o' shit.

Nice job yo. Easy on them ropes.

This was the Northeast face aid route. However, it did involve some free climbing.

Here's some more pics.

I really like my Bombshelter but only slept on it one night and then off the first bolt of a climb. It seemed pretty bomber. I was gonna sleep on a BD one night but it imploded before the sun even set. Can't really blame the ledge but the Met seems more solid and it has that cool fly by Mt. Hardware.

Trip: Steins Pillar - Northeast face Date: 3/26/2009 Trip Report: My bro and I made it to the top. We camped at the trail head, hiked to the pillar in the morning, climbed to the top of P3 and hauled our shit up there. There's a huge ledge for each pitch but P4 and that one still aint so bad. Camped on P3 ledge and climbed to the top on day 2. This is really a one day climb, only 5 shorter pitches, but we wanted to practice hauling and bivy. The Chongo ratcheting haul system worked great. Photos to come when I figure out my new camera. Gear Notes: P1 one could use a 5 or 6 BD cam to get started but otherwise a small trad rack is all that is required due to the large amount of fixed gear. Leave the big cam at top of P1. P2 requires some gear but a single rack of nuts and some small cams up to about a .5 was all I used even though we carried much much more. A second cam in the .5 range came in handy here but this was the only size where doubles are required. Also, I used a 2 BD to protect move on to the High Black Knob and .75 BD for very last move at top of climb. Finally, next party may want to bring some webbing, maybe two 20ft sections, to extend anchor at top to ease possible rope stuck situation. We rapped directly off chains with no problems but others have mentioned issues. Oh and stick clip came in handy on upper pitches. Approach Notes: Nice trail maybe one mile and not too hilly. Without a 100 pound pig on your back it shouldn't take very long.

If you want to make sure you get a spot just arrive in Camp IV parking lot around midnight and throw your sleeping bag down in front of the park ranger shack. There's usually a bunch of spots that open each day but why risk it by getting there late. Plus, if you enter the park at night you may not have to pay. Just make sure you leave at night too. And, Camp IV is way cool. No where else that I know of do you get to share a camping spot with several others, from all over the world, that rotate in and out each day along with a bunch of bears. The question I have is which spot in Camp IV is best? I have always stayed on the street edge near a big bolder that we hung out on. You are fairly close to your car there if you have a bunch of gear. Have fun.

Yea, the water was only up to his knees but he insisted on disrobing.