geoff

Monkey. Dude in cave on his first trip. Worked at Deschutes but caught drinking a PBR. Ivan working hard. West Face belay. Notice one of two bottle caps found here. I was able to pack them out. Why is my rope over there? Folks on the Leeper. Storm coming. Storm going. SERNE anchor for Kenny. Crag rat left at home this time. Here are some shots of Tuesday's outing. The Choss Factory did not disappoint. One bold climber remarked that climbing here was like a failed suicide attempt. Mr. Denton on Doomsday got some action. MDOD is just off Scorpian Ledge to the left. Here's its namesake. Jimmy's saw some action as well. It's off the right of Scorpian Ledge. Next thing you knew we had a Chongo Line going up Rumba Ridge. Here's Kyle on this 5 Star wonder of the NW. Rope wrangling at the hanging rap shared by four. Mike had enough.

Five minutes! That must be a record.

It's far. I remember about an hour on the FR at 5 mph.

Problem with recovering mass produced items is that there is usually no way to prove it is the one you lost. Learned this the hard way in Van, BC when the bums stole my Burton Custom,loved that board. Having your DL on there or writing down the serial number or something would help. Po po probably won't do a bunch of investigating but if you can lead them to the bandit then they may help. Then there is the issue on the innocent third party. They probably get to keep the stuff. And, this dude may be innocent. I figure most folks have at least three belays devices. A gri, an autoblock and a back up in case you drop your autoblock from the 10th pitch of some wall. Clearly the original owner had them when his shit got got.

Funniest TR I saw about Diedre was from a guy that found a camera at its base, delevoped the photos and posted them on the net along with snide comments about each photo and the folks in them. Best thing was that one of the guys had a Climb Max shirt on. Sweet route though. Get it during the week for sure. Oh, well there's also Uncle Tricky's TR that is f-ing great. Here's a link to the site. http://www3.telus.net/public/7394243/climbing/squamish/lostfound/lostfound.html

Beacon is open. Climbed there Sat.

BBC should have banned the entire thing - 'cause it sucks.

This is the time when the leader can rest, have a drink, maybe some snacks, roll a smoke or two. If you have a solid anchor, and you are relatively sure the second will not need to be lowered, why not use autoblocks?

Yea, he shone like the sun.

Here are some shots of the SF of Wash. Column. Mike on P3. The ledge. Mike on P4 Din. Ledge in the background. Mike on P6.

Ben's kickin ass. Very cool.

5 falls? How the funk do you only get 5 falls when similar width ropes get 11?

Chris, you want to chime in here? I'd love to hear the full scoop.

Trip: Yosemite - Many Date: 5/18/2009 Trip Report: Just back from a week in Yosemite with a large Oregon contingent. Thanks to Bill, Ujhan, Adam, Mike, Ben, Chris and Becky for good times. MikeR and I got on the South Face of Washington Column but were foiled by two lads from Weed and had to retreat from the top of Pitch 6. At least they had a bottle of wine, although it was white. Good thing we weren't in a hurry to get down as a three-man team below us beat us to the retreat and took for freaking ever to rap. Next we headed to El Cap to check on Ben and Chris. They will have to post their own TR as they were on the hunt for an elusive big wall. Wanted to climb to El Cap tree but other parties on the Trip held us back a bit. We climbed the first pitch of NA Wall instead and came back for El Cap Tree the next day. Saw a young bear near our stashed gear but it didn't mess with our stuff. The folks on the Trip were getting the drip and spent much of the next day at our anchor. This forced us to start way late and then retreat from near the Native Son anchors. Figured we better do some free climbing so we hit up the Grack, Harry Daily, Knob Hill, Jam Crack (w/ marching band-awesome addition to the climb-thanks to the musicians) and After Six. It's getting hot down there. Better get on it. Gear Notes: So much shit we could barely carry it all, minus portaledge left in PDX by mistake. Seriously though, offset nuts were used frequently along with hybrid aliens and a rope protector came in handy for jugging the Kor Roof pitch on Wash. Column. Approach Notes: Wash Column - long steep hot. El Cap - east side - long steep hot.

Just back from the big ditch. Sure had fun. Moving the Legend sounds like fun too. I have a truck and could help when help is needed.

I never said all poor folks were methies. I'm just saying the fee is a tool so the po po has a objectively reasonable basis for a meet and greet.

Seems like an alright way to keep the Meth Heads out of there. Isn't it just $1 more to camp at the bivy when you have to pay $3 to park anyhow?

Watch this.

I did some unnamed aid routes too. However, they did have free climb names. One was Classic Crack and the other Sheer Stress. Also rope soloed CC, sorta, and climbed Sheer Energy, sorta. I'm weak. Best part though was watching a strong dude from Stone Works cruise up the Red Wall with ease. Free soloed up past the anchor for CC on Thai Stick maybe and then up Kasmir.

Rookie

Anyone headed that way? Have gas money. Could also use a climbing partner for easy wall climb, like S. Face Wash Column. Send me a PM. Thanks.

It's all fun and games until you're carrying around a bag o' shit.

Nice job yo. Easy on them ropes.

This was the Northeast face aid route. However, it did involve some free climbing.

Here's some more pics.