geoff

Jim told me you all are a bunch of wankers and his climb should not be discussed via electronic gadgets.

I use em both. The first one to calm my belayer into believing they are safe if I whip off that thing and the second to rest on before commencing the BH approach.

Are yall taking about the two bolt anchor directly above P1? If so, this anchor isn't really part of the climb, is it? I suppose it is good for rapping or climbing P1 only but if your going up, why not use the anchor more in line with P2? If your level is P1 only then the added excitement of having to down climb 5 ft. is worth not moving the bolts. Of course, they can be removed altogether if you ask me.

Nice shots of the Butthole. Never seen it like that before.

Someone asking Ivan about correct aiding ethics and grabbing gear on regular routes.....it stopped me dead in my tracks in wonderment and I had to slow down and re-read it. This is highly and spectacularly irregular..... [font:Courier New](he says while sitting back in the easy chair and grabbing some popcorn)[/font] the "ivan do you...think" bit was more absurd (i think ) Definitely asking the wrong person.

this may be true. honestly just couldn't imagine this happening more than once recently. one or two or five but 17.

If you go back, with new gear, just re-aid the line on belay. Step one, reach up and remove draw. Step two, clip aiders to bolt. Step three, stand up in aiders. Repeat 15 or so times. If no fi fi, just use a draw.

I guess I just have more gear than I can carry so I'm not looking to booty someone's entire sport rack. Dude certainly didn't want to leave all his/her shit. Anyhow, it was me up there but the rain wasn't so bad. Some guy just strolled across a slackline and was like hey what are yall doing here. I'm thinking, "me? wtf did you come from?" Wasn't sure how to escape the cave but the NW Passage rap ended up being the ticket. Pics to come. And TR.

Yes.

Sure as shit those musta been your draws. Not going to ask what happened cause I know shit does but damn, can't imagine .... Anyhow, PBR drinking dude that snagged them works at Deschutes in Bend. Can't see why he wouldn't return them. Here he is.

I think RuMR was referring to a Jimmy Protecter.

Still waiting for your TR from this weekend. Obviously, Ivan didn't get you killed.

Yea but those folks are probably just old sprayers wishing they had some energy to climb in the gym. I say post away and let the sprayers spray. Real climbing is a loaded term for sure. It can be done at PRG or anywhere. I'm working on a TR about climbing out of bed.

I recommend watching few seasons of Ax Men before you do anything. And, to pass on some advice from my buddy that spent some time in Astoria - "don't mess with loggers cause there ain't noone more down on their luck than a logger."

That would likely be a pro photog that's there every weekend and will sell you that very shot when you run it.

Does anyone own one of these? Just wondering about the 5 fall rating. Not sure how that translates to actual climbing but if the rating means anything, you think this would not be good. But, the price is right, even without the 20% discount I missed. By the way, I like my Petzl Fuse. It's obvioulsy not a workhorse and it clearly says on the gri that it won't fit but otherwise mine's good for what it does, easy routes-no falls or trs and def no jugging. Zephyr for example has 10 fall rating. It's less expensive here http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Petzl-Zephyr-Climbing-Rope/PTZ0189M.html?avad=1768_c39594d

You mean Pink?

Unfortunately Beacon will not open as planned. They're calling this one because of the heat. Please do not drive out there and line up on the Corner or YW. Those routes are definitely closed.

Nice job LCK.

Clearly JH dominated Pink in a very shameful way on one of those trips out east. I think that's how he got his name. Not that there is anything wrong with that.

You mean the Bone Zone?

Beacon must be open by now. Is JH keeping the status on the DL so he doesn't have to climb with the hordes? If you climb the corner and no one sees you, did it really happen?

What Tvashtarkatena neglected to mention was that the real climbing was going on over on the LC. Although most rope up for the initial 5 easy section, I did one better and got a belay over to the start. Kyle attempted the approach but when he has to test the heel dig arrest I opted for the rope. You can see where he slid in this photo. Just over his right shoulder. Although we bivied here on Friday, Ivan, Tvash, Fern and Friend met us as we were still in our bags. This is where Kyle left my black runner and key lock biner. If you retrieve, please enjoy it but remember climbing is dangerous. That sling and/or biner could break at any minute. It was really a trade since we collected a red tricam and old brown biner. Here's my belayer/cleaner. Was also able to catch a glimpse of Ivan, pre-campy virus part 2. Given the lack of upward progress on the Bell I think the lull of gravity in Wyoming moved over to Wash Pass to double up on us. At any rate, was able to leave the aiders to free climb a bit at top of P2. The start of P3 looks like this. Fixed mank abounds. Here's Tvash hiding his face as he does the climbers' walk/rappel of shame.

Banned from the internet? Really? Seems pretty lame. I don't know Pope but as a t-shirt says that I bought in Rome, "I like the Pope, the Pope smokes dope."

Hey, doesn't Pink live in CO? Don't let one, well maybe two (too), sprayers ruin it for folks that actually climb at Beacon. Last thing I want to do is chat with a ranger.