geoff

I really like my Bombshelter but only slept on it one night and then off the first bolt of a climb. It seemed pretty bomber. I was gonna sleep on a BD one night but it imploded before the sun even set. Can't really blame the ledge but the Met seems more solid and it has that cool fly by Mt. Hardware.

Trip: Steins Pillar - Northeast face Date: 3/26/2009 Trip Report: My bro and I made it to the top. We camped at the trail head, hiked to the pillar in the morning, climbed to the top of P3 and hauled our shit up there. There's a huge ledge for each pitch but P4 and that one still aint so bad. Camped on P3 ledge and climbed to the top on day 2. This is really a one day climb, only 5 shorter pitches, but we wanted to practice hauling and bivy. The Chongo ratcheting haul system worked great. Photos to come when I figure out my new camera. Gear Notes: P1 one could use a 5 or 6 BD cam to get started but otherwise a small trad rack is all that is required due to the large amount of fixed gear. Leave the big cam at top of P1. P2 requires some gear but a single rack of nuts and some small cams up to about a .5 was all I used even though we carried much much more. A second cam in the .5 range came in handy here but this was the only size where doubles are required. Also, I used a 2 BD to protect move on to the High Black Knob and .75 BD for very last move at top of climb. Finally, next party may want to bring some webbing, maybe two 20ft sections, to extend anchor at top to ease possible rope stuck situation. We rapped directly off chains with no problems but others have mentioned issues. Oh and stick clip came in handy on upper pitches. Approach Notes: Nice trail maybe one mile and not too hilly. Without a 100 pound pig on your back it shouldn't take very long.

If you want to make sure you get a spot just arrive in Camp IV parking lot around midnight and throw your sleeping bag down in front of the park ranger shack. There's usually a bunch of spots that open each day but why risk it by getting there late. Plus, if you enter the park at night you may not have to pay. Just make sure you leave at night too. And, Camp IV is way cool. No where else that I know of do you get to share a camping spot with several others, from all over the world, that rotate in and out each day along with a bunch of bears. The question I have is which spot in Camp IV is best? I have always stayed on the street edge near a big bolder that we hung out on. You are fairly close to your car there if you have a bunch of gear. Have fun.

Yea, the water was only up to his knees but he insisted on disrobing.

Here's some shots from our trip.

I think it has more to do with rope drag and running a striaght line that is not forced to contact the rock because it is clipped so close. As for biner on biner, isn't it easier for two biners to unclip by accident then it would if using a sling?

tvashtarkatena and bill around a campfire-that sounds like trouble.

Nice job guys. It's good to see the pics to remind me of the sad sad experience I had there last weekend where partner number one reaches belay at top of P2 on Prodigal Son to tell me he can't hang in his harness and is rapping down followed by partner number two arriving at belay to tell me he may not be a big wall climber and would like to spend day two hiking.

As of Wed. Climb Max was sold out of the guidebook. They may need a re-up.

Ofcourse nature trundles and cleans moss and dirt, this is called weathering. It also should be the deciding factor in where bolts go and if they're even needed. Nature often decides the names as well, think Royal Arches, the Nose.

well, at least the mds are trying to save or enhance your life. not sure what good comes from gun onwership. seems that most the folks with the guns are the folks that probably shouldn't have them. the comparison should include the nonaccidental deaths by gunowners. but as with all statistics....

No doubt. That is clearly very uncool. I like bolts and all but to put a ladder to nowhere on the Bat Wall is lame at best. That wall and some of the others at Broughton's are very cool. Some of yall don't like it there but it's great for PDX climbers. These folks could have found plenty of other cliffs to do this at that are not at established climbing crags.

Plan to try out my new bomb shelter tomorrow. Should be interesting trying to hang it and might actually have an excuse to deploy the fly. May try to climb YW or something in the afternoon. Come on out.

No, as Bill Clinton explained "is" does matter and I agree with Dave. But, I guess when you're more likely to find yourself at a Def Leppard concert than out climbing your perspective is a bit different.

Gotta say that video is bogus but I say that about a lot of stuff. Anyhow, are you the dude that had to catch himself when his belayer let the end of the rope slip though the Gri? I was there with my girl and she won't climb anymore b/c of it. If that was you, good catch.

Photoshop

The rock determines the ideal pro placement not the climber/developer.

I kinda like seeing the old shit people used to call anchors. If all the ancient bolts were removed it would be like The Dunes being replaced by whatever hotel is there now. The history would be gone. Sure you can look at it in a musemum some day. It's more exciting to arrive at a belay and see some of that shit but comforting to know you don't have to rely on it. Just got the history of the 900 folks that have bit it in Yos. It seems bolts ripping was a fairly common event along with rope chopping. That being said, it seems they're ripping those old bolts out of walls in the Valley as fast as they can.

Those look perfect. Any thoughts on the Leverlock v. the Spirlock? Thanks.

Does anyone know if they make an ice climbing crampon for my semi-auto style boot. My plastic boots sorta broke. Thanks

Speaking of the old bail sling, the word came down from on high that it is to be saved for entry into the museum.

I'm ready if you need a belay. Short on tools though. However, several seem to frequent this board so it shouldn't be a problem finding a couple.

That would be Add-a-Bolt Ben, formerly Beacon Ben, and Ol' Dirty Larry. I could be down for another trip but the weather was great. It may not be reasonable to plan on all the stars aligning again before spring. Mt. Hood on the other hand....

Trip: Stein's Pillar - NE Date: 12/6/2008 Trip Report: Ben, Larry and I climbed the pillar on sat. We left PDX fri. evening and arrived in Prineville a few hours later where we stopped to ask for directions. No one had ever even heard of Stein's Pillar and the lady at the gas stop kept trying to get us to drive further east up into the Ochoco Mountains. But with a call to the childless Kyle we were able to get directions and head up into the woods where we slept at the trailhead. By dawn's first crack we were off. A fairly mellow hike led to the NE face and the first of many cool ledges. P1 was Larry's and he stylied it. We aided off the pipe sticking out of the wall for the first move and then protected the next with a #5. This led to the second cool ledge. Then, Ben was off. He led, I cleaned and Larry jugged straight up. Cool ledges the whole way except for the last belay. As advertised some of the gear was very old and very interesting. Ben brought some iron and a hammer but never used it although he did stick clip past the manky bolt to start P3 (I think). Made it to the top just before sunset. The first rap is a free rap so make sure you don't have your pack on like I did or it won't be that fun. Two ropes make it down to top of P3 and then one more double rap puts you on the ground. Hiked out in the dark. Gear Notes: Stick clip. Approach Notes: Hiking trail.

Not quite sure what you mean by that kevbone but with over 10,000 posts to this website I bet if you spent a little less time on the net you could find some time to go out and climb.