ryanb

Damn Sol, that is a training routine. How much weight, what edges and grips do you use for the various hangs and pulls? I've gotten serious about training the last couple of years, focusing mostly on fingers and have also seen hugh gains (sending index 11's and starting to think about harder stuff, bouldering 3-4 grades harder then i was). My routine is not very organized, I try and follow what I'm psyched on each week (either PE or P) and do at least one pure power (hangboard) work out every week. Basically I do: 1 yoga class a week taught by a climber/skier + additional light yoga every day with a focus on pushing and opposition to climbing movements. Bike commute 2-5 days a week (10 miles round trip). Climb outside 1-2 days a week depending on weekend weather (either bouldering or routes at index recently but hopping to start throwing WA pass in the mix and get in some after work sessions in the sky valley thanks to the long days) 2-3 midweek sessions preceded by long warm up traverses and some bouldering either at SG or the UW rock. Breaks down as follows: Hang board 1-3 days a week (Usually 3 sets of 5x~8 seconds four finger open handed on the small campus edges, and 1-3 sets each using each three finger grip and the two stronger 2 finger grips on the large and medium edges). Frenchies and front levers 1-2 times a week (my elbows can't take more). The last month or so I have started to focus more on PE during (2-3) midweek sessions, first using steep traverses and foot on campusing at stone gardens and more recently doing traverses and link ups at the UW rock...PE really kills me and i've had to cut down to one light hang boarding session a week, loose the frenchies and watch the elbows but am feeling really strong and psyched for this season. I also feel like I end up taking at least 2 real rest days (no climbing, maybe bike commute) a week when i feel i need them, usually monday and friday.

Perly gates, no chance. They don't get sun until late afternoon this time of year. I looked up at them last weekend and the right side still had ice. the left side might be dryish but you would freeze your ass off. You should be fine on south facing stuff (most popular crags, buttresses and boulders between carino crag and JY crags had climbable spots last weekend)

As of sunday most south facing rock is snow free, trails not so much. 8 mile road was still closed.

Thanks for doing that Porter, I think a lot of us would be willing to donate a lot of time (fundraising events?) and what money we have to a purchase effort. I'd also like to point out that the wcc article asks for help valuing the land (in terms of quarry feasibility) from people who have experience with environmental regulations or railroad easements. As far as climbing out there currently, i've been out recently and have had no problems. I imagine the most important thing is to be very respectful and polite in any interactions you have with the owner? It is their land and we'd like them to be willing to sell it to climbers. If they don't want you climbing on the LTW, there is a lot of Index that is not affected by this. Everything from the country to the upper walls I believe; there is a map on the wcc page. The traditional parking lot is on railroad land and there are other places to park as well (I think the city has a parking lot at the end of their foot trail near the gun club?).

Doesn't the custom knife shop advertise cabins? I've never been inside but it seems legit. ish.

Index was perfect monday.

I believe the holds were glued on by members of the greater-montlake-cut-artificial-structure-climbing-community and I don't think it was leadable...more of a dws. The rumor I hear was they were chopped immediately after 9/11.

Watch the cheap rope thread, buy cheap buy often: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/860259/Re_Hot_rope_deal_60#Post860259

Have you used that rope before billcoe? How does it hold up? This review: http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=30&type=fieldtested made me think i might wait for a deal on something more durable and longer as my metolius 70 9.8 (got cheap thanks to this thread) is still going strong and the extra 10m are really nice for index.

mammut 8.5x60 = $55 (one color only) pmi 9.7x60 = $60 edelrid 9.8x70 = $165 10mmx60=$114 http://www.rei.com/search?cat=4500081&sale=Y&hist=cat%2C4500081%3ARopes+and+Bags%5Esale%2CY%3ASale+%26+Clearance

No kidding, we all know corduroy offers better traction in wide cracks and knee bars but khakis wear better and are cooler in hot temps.

Have the rest of the week off and would like to climb some rock. Closest dry rock looks to be bishop, looking to swap driving shifts. I would prefer someone I have already met but last minute planers can't be choosers. I am competent and safe and climb more or less v6 or 5.11, whatever style.

Ben, What is your opinion on the rating of Amandla without the extension? I seem to recall hawk thinking it was easier then Chronic but very temp dependent? (not that i am going to do either of them any time soon but its nice to dream)

I think Hawk B did it in 2000 or so and estimated it was the 4th ascent.

Tri cams are a waste of time at index. They aren't small enough to protect the places that are hard to protect. When they are the only thing that will fit in a placement you probably want that pod as hand hold. For finger cracks at index (many of the 5.10 and harder gear routes), get at least 4-5 micro nuts (i carry 8 stoppers, a set of BD micros and a couple of metolius astro nuts for flared placements. I may buy a few offsets at the next opertunity.) and concentrate multiples in the small cams up to 1. I own triples of blue alien/purple metolius and green alien/blue metolius. I usually carry nothing bigger than a single 2 unless i know the route has sustained wide sections. There are places (sag, p1 japanese gardens, GM probably others) where a 4 and/or a couple of 3's are nice but for a lot "index moderate" classics (thin fingers, tatoosh, godzilla, p2 city park, sloe children, klaus von whatever, p3 japanese gardens, iron horse, dr sniff, marginal karma, even steven) the emphasis is on thin to thin hands. Convince your partner to buy, and carry, the big stuff.

Nice Send Fitz! Reiter road does connect to index (as long as its not still under construction like it was this summer), you can ride from seattle via the burck gilman, the woodinville duval highway, high bridge road/W snoqualamie valley rd/tulaca (to avoid 203) ben howard road (across the river from 2 from monroe to sultan) and reiter and avoid 2 almost entirely. A more fun option might be some forest service roads from duval to index.

Off-width variation p3 freedom rider on liberty bell. Probably want a couple of 3's, 4's, and 5's and abb's you could grate cheese on as well. I haven't been on it but "another man's car" at index might fit the bill too.

What is an elliptical? Does having a highly trained elliptical help one climb harder?

Thanks for the info Rich. Seems like a nice last resort. I was wondering if you could program route details into the 911 message before big trips, guess only for the help msg?

Glad all involved are safe. Can you program the SPOT's with a custom message before you leave home?

I've climbed it twice post clean, pre bolt. Its a great route and I'm glad somebody had the vision to see its potential. My partner led the bottom laying back the flake after placing the red alien, this seemed pretty spicy. I led it as a flare (staying behind the flake) and was able to place the red alien and another (green or blue) higher up. The rock didn't seem great for either placement and will probably get worse as dirt washes down there. I can't argue with a bolt there, particularly if the placements are as hollow as backcountrydog says.

Cole Alan said something a few weeks ago about trying to free the lower seem as a direct start to dwarf toss I think?

Not sure if it has gone free/clean but there was chalk and a fixed rope on it yesterday.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1534 "Thick foam/soft shell - The thickness of foam is constant throughout the whole shell, and as this is the main energy-absorbing layer, it is clear that the helmet will be effective wherever an impact occurs. Thick foam/hard shell - With these helmets the foam is concentrated around the crown, and thins out towards the edges or simply stops. Again the foam is the main energy absorber, and as it is thinner at the edges, the transmitted force is much greater for an impact in these areas than one where the foam is thickest. Traditional - The main energy-absorbing component in these helmets is the textile webbing cradle, and the crucial clearance distance between this and the shell. This webbing is anchored to the shell at the rim, which means that the nearer the rim an impact occurs, the lower the energy absorption will be – in this case the force transmitted is over four times the maximum allowed for a comparative crown impact by the EN standard."

I wore a battered ecrin rock for years but recently purchased a bd tracer on sale. I feel that the tracer offers sufficient protection against falling rock and better protection against inverted falls and other off center impacts...I really wouldn't trust the ecrin in a head falling into rock or bike crash style impact. The tracer is also much lighter. My only dislike is that its vent holes can "whistle" in high winds or on a bike. I also considered the metolius safe tech helmet which used both foam and a hard shell. It is slightly lighter then the ecrin and seems to offer a good combination of protection if you can get your hands on one.