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builder206

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Everything posted by builder206

  1. This thread reminds me of growing up in Dallas reading Haston & Bonington, trying to imagine what it was like, age 15-16 taking a a Greyhound to southern Colorado to walk up some of the 13ers, no farking idea what I should carry or not carry, how far I could get in a day etc. I need to remind myself how lucky I am to live here & how much I owe the people who I have climbed with.
  2. bump cool, got a PM, moving the right direction
  3. I climb at Seattle Vertical World to condition for the climbing season (rock and sport) and I'm looking for one partner or some combination of partners so I can rack up 2 or 3 sessions per week – some combo of weeknights and weekends. I started a 10 week program similar to How to Climb 5.12 with the goal of redpointing a 10 at Vantage in May. I'm climbing .8 right now so it isn't high grade stuff. I'm looking for someone who is around my level or above. thanks
  4. They're going to dive in. Palin/Bachmann to unify the base.
  5. builder206

    Alpine Climbing

    pics pls better yet, a youtube link
  6. What's wrong with kids these days? When I was a boy, all we had were meth and crank. They were good enough then!
  7. You sound grumpy.
  8. builder206

    Oh Goodie!

    Maybe they can't release him unless he is *convicted* of a felony. Or the Mariners were just good-hearted when they signed him and never put a released-for-felony clause in his contract. I bet if they could get rid of his salary they would.
  9. Well, he's posting here. It's a start.
  10. Wow, a whistleblower at REI. That's really edgy.
  11. but I like bacon too
  12. Rotator cuff injury. A year ago I gave myself partial-thickness tears at the right subscap and suprapsinatus tendons and a partly torn labrum. The surgeons called the overall injury “moderately severe.” The five sisters’ dating life went dark. Therapy is over and I am rebuilding strength. All well & good. I’m posting to ask others here who have come back from rotator cuff injuries, what did you do to recondition specifically for climbing? thanx
  13. It was even more striking to see in RT. Stupid little point & shoot doesn't do it justice from a tiny airliner window. Mt. Rainier was not showing the phenomenon:
  14. If it's not Boeing, I'm not going.
  15. Kamet ankle height I don't know how stiff they are in comparison to the others mentioned here but they are made for alpine multi-pitch and have worked well for me in that role.
  16. If it this project was well-managed, they'd have a plane, not a continuous stream of press pieces explaining away the latest snafu. To say it's "well-managed" is an Orwellian abuse of the dictionary. It might be well-managed for a test project or prototype project, but this was supposed result in a production line cranking out multiple aircraft, not improvements in computer software.
  17. Terzaghi, Soil Mechanics in Engineering Practice it might be dirt to you but it's money to me
  18. I’d like to meet up with someone for weekend alpine stuff or cragging after 8/22. I am past the beginner stage but not well-seasoned. I can lead .6 and follow most .8, some .9. Fitness-wise I am fit, strong & durable. I have a tick list that’s III / 5.easy. It’s long but includes these routes: Cutthroat / S Face Cutthroat / SE Butt McMillan Spire / N Face of W Spire Triumph / NE Ridge I’m also interested in Darrington. Last year I followed Ex Dome West Butt. I could have led several of the pitches (not all). If you’re game maybe we could do a crag day to check the vibe before jumping in. I have a rope and a lot of pro but nothing big. For a crag day I could get out after work on a weekday, E 38 or Index. I can climb only on weekends with the occasional Friday or Monday vacation day for a 3-day trip like to the Pickets. I am wasted from a 4-day trip just ended, want to stay home 8/15-16. I am free beginning 8/22 with only a few weekend commitments after that.
  19. I went up the south route a couple weeks ago - 7/25 - and there was good snow all the way to the false summit. From http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/current-conditions/mta-climbing-report.shtml: "SOUTH CLIMB trail report: The trail is snow free…The snow is quickly disappearing from False Summit." So, in just 2 weeks it's all gone. The Trout Lake ranger station can tell you real-time conditions when you are ready to go but it sounds like teh suck now.
  20. You sure post a lot for someone who quit climbing. Hey, can I put your draw on my rack now? Why not give me the rest of your stuff, too.
  21. You're such a downer, man.
  22. Clarification: there are two large crevasse areas on the left-ish side of the glacier not far above camp. We launched to the right, stayed well right of the glacier's midline (but not all the way to the right) until we passed them, then moved left to the centerline of the glacier. From there the ascent was straightforward until we got to the monster slot. That's where we moved well left to cross the big 'un on a snowbridge. It was above that where we had to jump the two smaller crevasses. The word "jump" is misleading. They weren't standing broad jumps, more like one big vigorous step that you wanted to stick hard. No big thing.
  23. bump maybe one of these Cutthroat / S Face Cutthroat / SE Butt McMillan Spire / N Face of W Spire Triumph / NE Ridge
  24. I climbed Adams via Mazama Glacier. Day 2 was the summit. Day 3 was scheduled to make the return leisurely & comfortable. Sunrise is a beautiful camp. The Klickitat icefall and The Castle are spectacular. At 4AM, Venus was brilliant in the east and Jupiter was high & bright in the west. The Milky Way arched through the zenith and the Pleiades were high above Yakima’s lights. After ascending past a couple large crevasse areas we jumped two crevasses then had to traverse left to find a snowbridge across a mammoth slot above the smaller ones. The snow ran out at about 9,400’, barely higher than the Lunch Counter. We made a rising traverse west across Suksdorf Ridge to 9,700' at the snowfield above the L.C. then a sharply rising traverse across the snow to pick up the trade route at 10,800’. Glissaded about 1,000’ from the false summit to start the traverse back. Beautiful weather. Clouds moved in each afternoon but dropped no precip. We were briefly in a whiteout roping up to descend the glacier but it was no big deal. There is a new women’s fashion trend. On the South Ridge I saw not 1, not 2, but 3 different women wearing a Mounties-style getup of a white baselayer under blue jean shorts. FYI a good driving shortcut from Seattle is to take I-5 to 12, 12 to Randle, then FS 23 55 miles to Trout Lake. FS 23 is mostly paved but there is a section about 10 or 12 miles long that is unpaved but pretty good quality. On approach Sunrise Camp Lake filling vent of subsidiary cinder cone Mazama Glacier above camp Klickitat Icefall The Castle Mountain goat convention I forgot to check the charge on my TWO camera batteries. Both conked out. The last photo I got was us roping up on summit day. Others in the party took photos but they are theirs so I can't post them. I topped out, honest!
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