builder206

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Any climb where the weight of the water you have to haul is greater than the weight of all your other gear? Someone who does big wall climbing told me that in summer in some places, each pair's haul bag will be 175 lbs with more than half that being water. Water weights 8.3 lbs per gallon so that represents more than 5-1/2 gallons per person. If you use 1-1/2 gals. per day that's almost 4 days' worth. Long time to be on a route. P.S. an aid route, not free

He ain't getting up the Cascade River Road in that.

I’d like to hit Three O’Clock Rock OR Saber and, if it feels OK, Midway or Canary. I have a rope and pro. My experience: intermediate. I’m hip to both places. Did 3 of 5 pitches on R&D a couple weeks ago, smooth & safe but slow (3-1/2 hrs). My 4th multipitch lead. Followed Exfoliation Dome West Butt (III 9p 5.8) a couple years ago. Easy route, could have led some of it. Scheduling is complex, can’t go at the drop of a hat, need some lead time. Might be good to meet at VW or SG first to be sure there’s a fit.

a key takeaway here

Before we go off on political rants, I'd like the thread to deliver on the hookers and drugs title.

Before mattp went to the Gunks last week, someone told me about some sort of overhanging 5.2 there as a joke to illustrate how hardcore their grades are. Now he comes back with his TR and by God, there IS overhanging 5.easy!

Oh great, now it's a .9. I'll take my SPOT beacon.

In the last 4 weeks, two Mounties have given me dire warnings about Midway and Saber. Supposedly they are "old school" grades, really more like 5.8 under a fair & rational grading system.

May 8 looking S from top of R&D May 8 looking N from top of R&D

I will pay for fuel and Hobbs time if you will bomb Liberty Bell with de-icer.

man, talk about stoke! thanks a ton for the pics

Trip: - R & D Date: 5/8/2011 Trip Report: My 1st lead after a year off for torn rotator cuffs. We broke it into 5 pitches. I led 3 of them. Felt terrific to be back in action. Nice day, sunny and blue sky most of the morning. Weather came in after noon but we were back to the cars by then. After my rope topped out and we were waiting for the second rope to come up, it started snowing high on the crest to the south. Mother's Day and a poor forecast kept everyone away; we were the only ones on route and there was hardly any traffic up or down the road. Everything went smooth and safe. There's a cam buried in a short vertical crack in the blocks just below the chimney and one of the guys on the other rope found a Helium.

What make & model of harness has these superpowers?

Sorry but for all my years of living in Ellensburg I used vantage as a training ground - for both climbing and drinking. No big, I was laughing when I wrote it. I was off >18 months with rotator cuff tears so now anything about climbing puts a big grin on my face. It's all good.

Great, my group hug for higher ideals turns into a sinkhole for drunks. The cc.com leveling effect.

It does feel like I'm seeing more glass shards there.

Saturday I left my camera by the path at Tomato Wall. 4 hours later, I realized it was gone. Walked back – there it was – someone had picked it up and put it on a rock out in the open by the trail so it would be easy for me to find. I bet *at least* 100 people walked by it and left it alone, knowing (of course) that eventually the guy who left it would be back. I had 3 days’ worth of photos on it that I had not yet downloaded. Very nice.

Saturday I left my camera by the path at Tomato Wall. 4 hours later, I realized it was gone. Walked back – there it was – someone had picked it up and put it on a rock out in the open by the trail so it would be easy for me to find. I bet *at least* 100 people walked by it and left it alone, knowing (of course) that eventually the guy who left it would be back. I had 3 days’ worth of photos on it that I had not yet downloaded. Very nice.

Thanks. Someone with Mountain Madness was there twice last week. He said it was "dry enough."

Is it drying out? Anyone been on route there in the last week or so?

Terrific photos, thanks a lot!

rad “An unwritten Seattle Climbing position on mountaineering boots has been changed. Rock shoes are now allowed on Basic & Intermediate Climbs by default unless the climb leader specifies differently in the trip leader notes. Boots are encouraged on Basic Rock Climbs.” FWIW, students wearing rock shoes were OK with Everett leaders. The boots requirement was a Seattle thing.

It doesn't look like those can take a step-in crampon. Do you know one way or another?

second that