boadman

I'm looking for quality pitches. Are those super fun ones?

I lead that route precisely once, and am done with it. Incredible route, but not really worth it to me.

Do pitches 2&3 of Jap gardens make your top 10 list? I'm not that psyched on Shirley, how can 10' of actual climbing be so exhausting? I've never even heard of Klaus von Bulow

I haven't done Newest Industry or Julie's roof. Newest Industry would be easy to access from Dr. Sniff, after which I could head over to Julie's roof too. That would be fun. I don't really like any of the roger's corner things, they're all sort of mediocre for index, IMHO. Accidental Discharge is fun, but I'm not sure Blue's cliff will be on the tour. Iron Horse & Model Worker require a little too much mental energy for me for a big day like this. Otherwise, I'd put TPMV on the list two. Those 3 are definitely all time favorites. Clay is too hard too, it would probably end the day.

I find Tatoosh awkward and rather unpleasant. I've actually never gotten around to doing Walter B or any of the Narrow Arrow pitches except messing around on the Direct on TR. They look really fun from the road though.

GM HOC is definitely worthy, I'll add that. The first 3 pitches of DHLA might make it on the list, the rest I'm not super excited about.

So, I've got my 33rd birthday coming up in June and I'm contemplating trying to do a 33 (book) pitch birthday challenge at Index. The goal will be to lead all the pitches in a day, not necessarily to send them. Help me build my list: 1. Godzilla 2. City Park 3. Slow Children 4. Princely Ambitions 5. Dr. Sniff 6. Newest Industry 7. Julie's Roof 8. Thin Fingers 9. With Apologies to Walter B 10. Sagiscaryous (through upper roof) 11. Japanese Gardens (p1 to second anchor only, maybe p2 & 3 also) 12. Zoom 13. Cunning Stunt 14. Elvis Presley 15. Leave My face Alone 16. Kite Flying Blind 17. Climax Control 18-20. GM HOC 21. Wham 22. Little Jupiter (might be too hard) 23. Spooner (might be too hard) 24. Who Put the Purr in My Pussy 25. Toxic Shock 26. Even Steven 27-29. Rattle-tail 30. Senior Citizens In Space 31. Zipper 32. Strange Boar 33. ?? Favorites? continously edited until the perfect 33 are listed. :-)

I'm fairly certain I can extend the sling faster than you can take a quick draw off your harness and clip it to the c4. Also, in terms of rack clutter, you can reduce the number of draws required by at least half on most routes if you're climbing with a rack of dmms.

I like them too. I find them easy to use and the extendable slings are pretty great as I almost always put at least a quick draw on my BDs. I find a simpler way to extend the slings is to take the biner completely off the sling, and clip it to the bar tacked side and then clip the rope to it. I bet it's as fast as your method, and less finicky. They're also less bulky on my harness, which I really like.

I want a 70m deal...

I think the crag that should not have been named earlier in this thread is as good or better than WWII.

This is a rather ambitious list, but I might as well dream big, right?: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/stern-farmer/105821732 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bobcat-cringe/107377907 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rosbongo/105836617 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/west-face/105806033 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/black-ice/105805805 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/aggro-monkey/105864917

How many of us are actually limited by our diet? I think unless we're approaching our genetic potential, eating a standard healthy diet is going to get you where you need to be...

Generally, if the big wet patch to the right looks as dry from the road as it did yesterday, it's good to go.

If you're there the 21st-22nd, I'd love to play with them.

David Wagoner's patents expired several years ago. What laws could totem be breaking?

I'd buy it.

In general, I agree with you, but there is a sense in your comment that if people are well trained, experienced, and pay attention, mistakes won't happen. This is not actually the case, even well trained, thought-full, experienced, and focused climbers make mistakes. Equipment such as auto-locking belay devices can definitely help reduce the consequences of those momentary lapses. For instance if a belayer suffers rock-fall, bee-stings, heart attacks, dog-bites, a strange twist in the rope, etc an auto-locking belay device would mitigate potentially fatal falls.

I'm curious, who was the manufacturer of the sling? I completely agree with your and Rad's point about personal responsibility. Every time we step off the ground, we're taking our lives into our own hands.

For sport, I'd go with the fatter slings, they're easier to grab when dogging and will last forever. I like the petzl spirits, or the bd live-wires: http://www.backcountrygear.com/climbing/carabiners-quickdraws/quickdraws/black-diamond-livewire-quickdraw.html No hook on the bolt side is super convenient for cleaning over-hanging sport lines, and wire-gates on the rope side is nice for clipping. I also like those two draws because the rope side biner is captured quite tight in the webbing, so it doesn't flop around.

I'd talk to the manufacturer. Sounds funky.

Si always gives me tons of trouble too. The routes are definitely not rated for the onsight.

There was a fellow who pulled a piece and broke both ankles, or heels or something similar a year or so ago.

Some friends of ours have the chariot, the stroller wheel set-up is way better than the Burley's. We've got a Burley that I use a ton for towing the kids around on my bike, but the stroller attachment sucks.

J-tree is pretty reliable, and a nice change from the NW. It's also not too terrible a drive from the PNW.