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boadman

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Everything posted by boadman

  1. Size? How old is the resole?
  2. Oh, and he's almost there, so back it quick if you want to get a deal on the headlamp. :-)
  3. He's doing really well, he's only 2,400 down, and he's got over a month to go. I don't think he'll have any trouble reaching his goal. I hope the company makes it!
  4. It might be about 2 miles to get to the farthest boulders (Magic) if you can't drive. I'd rather walk than pedal a pad up that hill.
  5. Any yet the grain size in Squamish granite is coarser than the size of the sand grains in IC sandstone Fine grained granite doesn't seem to have the same "sand"paper effect that the IC sandstone does though. You wear holes in your skin one layer at a time if you climb there multiple days.
  6. She mainly climbs in the desert though. She wouldn't tape up for Index or Squamish. The granite is fine enough grained that tape is unnecessary.
  7. CO2 equivalent of 1,515 kWh = roughly 1301 lbs. CO2 production of commercial flight = roughly 1 lb/mile/passenger Seattle - Petersburg = 1796 lbs So, you should more than offset your flight in a year or so. Not bad. That doesn't count the helicopter ride though. Am I really a hater? I would describe myself as mildly critical and slightly holier-than-thou.
  8. I'd personally contact the rope manufacturer. Used motor oil often has metal particulates that might also do some damage.
  9. What about Zach Hoyt's ascents? Didn't he hike in from the beach or something like that? As someone with a job & family, I can understand why you wouldn't have the time to catch the ferry up to Petersburg, hitch a ride on a fishing boat, and hike in from the beach, but I still think it would be better style. Actually, I think a pedal powered approach to one of our local ranges would be prouder in many ways. Glorifying the "smash and grab" trip is also glorifying the activities that are drastically changing the character of many of our mountains. The climb looked like a fun adventure though, for sure!
  10. Cool video & climb. Seems like a pretty substantial carbon to climbing ratio.
  11. Private Idaho has quite a few 5.9 & under single pitch (with a 70m rope) routes. They would actually be reasonably easy to set top-ropes on too, if the group doesn't have a ton of competent belayers. The grades are stiff, like usual though. There are two 5.8s on the right side that are particularly fun and mellow.
  12. A friend is trying to start up a new company to manufacture and sell his headlamp design. It's pretty neat: Bosavi Headlamps Kickstarter
  13. I'll do the 50 classics in 17 years. This is a 33rd birthday challenge, so I'm going for 33 pitches. I agree that this list is so far lower wall centered, but you have to admit that everything on the list so far is pretty stellar.
  14. I'm looking for quality pitches. Are those super fun ones?
  15. I lead that route precisely once, and am done with it. Incredible route, but not really worth it to me.
  16. Do pitches 2&3 of Jap gardens make your top 10 list? I'm not that psyched on Shirley, how can 10' of actual climbing be so exhausting? I've never even heard of Klaus von Bulow
  17. I haven't done Newest Industry or Julie's roof. Newest Industry would be easy to access from Dr. Sniff, after which I could head over to Julie's roof too. That would be fun. I don't really like any of the roger's corner things, they're all sort of mediocre for index, IMHO. Accidental Discharge is fun, but I'm not sure Blue's cliff will be on the tour. Iron Horse & Model Worker require a little too much mental energy for me for a big day like this. Otherwise, I'd put TPMV on the list two. Those 3 are definitely all time favorites. Clay is too hard too, it would probably end the day.
  18. I find Tatoosh awkward and rather unpleasant. I've actually never gotten around to doing Walter B or any of the Narrow Arrow pitches except messing around on the Direct on TR. They look really fun from the road though.
  19. GM HOC is definitely worthy, I'll add that. The first 3 pitches of DHLA might make it on the list, the rest I'm not super excited about.
  20. So, I've got my 33rd birthday coming up in June and I'm contemplating trying to do a 33 (book) pitch birthday challenge at Index. The goal will be to lead all the pitches in a day, not necessarily to send them. Help me build my list: 1. Godzilla 2. City Park 3. Slow Children 4. Princely Ambitions 5. Dr. Sniff 6. Newest Industry 7. Julie's Roof 8. Thin Fingers 9. With Apologies to Walter B 10. Sagiscaryous (through upper roof) 11. Japanese Gardens (p1 to second anchor only, maybe p2 & 3 also) 12. Zoom 13. Cunning Stunt 14. Elvis Presley 15. Leave My face Alone 16. Kite Flying Blind 17. Climax Control 18-20. GM HOC 21. Wham 22. Little Jupiter (might be too hard) 23. Spooner (might be too hard) 24. Who Put the Purr in My Pussy 25. Toxic Shock 26. Even Steven 27-29. Rattle-tail 30. Senior Citizens In Space 31. Zipper 32. Strange Boar 33. ?? Favorites? continously edited until the perfect 33 are listed. :-)
  21. I'm fairly certain I can extend the sling faster than you can take a quick draw off your harness and clip it to the c4. Also, in terms of rack clutter, you can reduce the number of draws required by at least half on most routes if you're climbing with a rack of dmms.
  22. I like them too. I find them easy to use and the extendable slings are pretty great as I almost always put at least a quick draw on my BDs. I find a simpler way to extend the slings is to take the biner completely off the sling, and clip it to the bar tacked side and then clip the rope to it. I bet it's as fast as your method, and less finicky. They're also less bulky on my harness, which I really like.
  23. I think the crag that should not have been named earlier in this thread is as good or better than WWII.
  24. This is a rather ambitious list, but I might as well dream big, right?: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/stern-farmer/105821732 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bobcat-cringe/107377907 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rosbongo/105836617 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/west-face/105806033 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/black-ice/105805805 http://www.mountainproject.com/v/aggro-monkey/105864917
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