Bigtree

Nice TR Amar.

Poor DM. Apparently came down from her perch recently; was promptly arrested; and then taken to hospital - probably for a shower.

great site.

I miss George C...the good stuff starts at about the 4 min mark: hWiBt-pqp0E

Another British tabloid headline titled "Nice crevasse...shame about the rock face": http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/topstories/2008/07/14/nice-crevasse-shame-about-the-rock-face-89520-20642964/ Cornball, but funny nonetheless.

Anyone been up North Ridge recently who can offer some current into re: route conditions; particularly regarding the approach through the crevasse field from Hogsback or above? I'd like to give it a go August 16th weekend. Thanks.

Stone Nudes redux - http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/2300313/Nude-climber-craze-tipped-to-take-over-Britain.html?DCMP=EMC-new_15072008 "Nude climbing has become popular among beginners and experienced adventurers alike. Its followers say it is the closest they can get to nature, while requiring none of the harnesses and ropes of the normal sport. One enthusiast has even taken to photographing participants, compiling the results into a calendar called Stone Nudes 2009 which, he says, is intended to "inspire and celebrate" the human form. The calendar, which he has been compiling for the past ten years, features black and white shots of perfectly-sculpted women scaling rock faces in the western United States. "This kind of climbing is the sport at its purest, intended to inspire and celebrate the human form," said California-based Dean Fidelman. "Hundreds of people are now participating in a sport that captures the true essence of the climbing sprit." The sport is the latest in a series of nudist adventure pursuits to sweep across America and is tipped to edge its way over to Britain. "It requires no equipment," added Mr Fidelman. "Which means climbers of all abilities can take part." The sport is the latest in a long line to to attract a nudist following. Nude hiking is the most common pursuit, but there is also a World Naked Bike Ride, naked wrestling, naked skating, bowling and yoga, while horticulturalists celebrate a World Naked Gardening Day."

Trip: Wedge Mt in a day - Classic/north-east arete Date: 7/12/2008 Trip Report: After 3 previous attempts I finally tagged the summit of Wedge Mt via Classic route along entire north-east arete. Had some great company, stellar weather and good snow/ice conditions. Approach to arete via Weart-Wedge col: North-west face of Wedge Mt: Entire north arete: Arete from up top: Descent via west ice fall: Route map/topo: Gear Notes: - Rope. - Std glacier travel gear. Approach Notes: - Left trail-head (~ 2 500') at midnight Saturday July 12. - 3 hrs to hut at Wedgemont Lake. - Short break for tea at lake, - Ascended via Wedge-Weart col/north-east arete. - On summit (~ 9 527') at 8:40 am. - Descended via ice fall on west side (some crevasse and falling serac hazards at ice fall). - Back to car by 4:30 pm after some lounging at hut. - Total elevation gain/loss 14 000' (~ 7 000' each way). - Total distance 14.6 miles. - View from the summit - spectacular.

Jim, in answer to your question with a question, have you considered doing the climb as a day trip? I've done it both ways and much preferred doing it as a day trip. Beats lugging a heavy pack up to the Lunch Counter and back. As I recall, it took me 12 hrs return (i.e., car to car from Cold Springs campground leaving at 3 am) in mid-July. Just a thought for you.

HansLund, I was leading a small group early that morning and turned around atop the DC (~ 12 500') at about 4:30 - 5:00 due to high winds and a rockfall (~ 12 000' from just above the boot trail) which cracked one of our team on the kneecap. There was a large cluster of folks huddled at around 13 500' or so apparently trying to figure out which way to go given the wind. We thought it was the right call for us to abort under the circumstances; particularly given the forecast at the time which suggested that the winds were part of the leading edge of a small front that was sweeping in. By the time we got back to Muir the winds had clearly abated, but we had no regrets - the mountain isn't going anywhere and we had a great time.

Bummer. Freedom 55 seems to have all but slipped away for me during the first half of '08.

Das Beerd, just climbed it last Thursday. The scariest thing for me was the fear of getting clotheslined by the hordes of inexperienced folks climbing above the Hogsback in the event there was a fall. Also, you might find a second tool helpful on some parts of the descent should you decide to downclimb nose-in. Lastly, don't be a lame ass like so many folks I saw who actually took a snow-cat ride up to ~ 8,500' before commencing their "climb".

Stihl-girl will take care of that little pecker pole for you Feck.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/60124/Number/804992#Post804992 http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/mt_baker_climbing_notes.shtml "06/02/2008 Easton Glacier 2.5 mile hike to Schriebers Meadow Trail Head. Lots of snow from Trail Head to railroad grade 5 feet of snow at 5400 feet along Railroad Grade. Route was difficult to follow. Avoid ice balls on west side. No summit attempted, because of time. Heavy fog at 8200 feet. Everything well filled in, looking great. 06/01/2008 Coleman-Deming Unsafe crossing of cracked Bridge over Grouse Creek at beginning of Heliotrope trail. Route strait forward with no crevasses open. Also snow shoes or skis are very useful."

Bubba, I'm planning on climbing via Easton this weekend myself. I hope the road fully melts out. As I recall, the top of the Railway grade/terra firma ends at about 6,400'. There is a nice, non-glacial bowl immediately along you left as you plod up the grade (at about 5,000'). Have fun and make sure you break a good trail.

Beautiful photos Tim.

you and jmace are both right - I'm just in denial

Further to my bump above, I spoke with one of the Rangers at the Sedro Woolley office this morning (Tuesday May 27th) who advised that they only had one recent TR - May 26th climb via Coleman-Demming glaciers - "warm and wet to the top...take care in and around steep slopes".

Bump. I was planning on climbing the North ridge this weekend (i.e., May 31/June 1), but have an inkling its not in shape. Any pics and/or reports of conditions along the ridge would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks billcoe. What an interesting read.

Check out this web site: http://www.leelau.net/2008/spearhead2008_04/ He appears to have just completed the trip last week.

I respect your view re: packing weight on the way down as well; however, I've come to realize at 45 that my knees are like tread ratings on tires in that they're only good for so many miles of use. Also, to further clarify my earlier comments re: running being over rated, the important thing in my mind from a climbing point of view is increasing overall fitness/endurance. While you can certainly achieve this to some degree from running, I can get pretty much the same aerobic and anaerobic workout from cycling, hiking or climbing (e.g., 2 1/2 hr mountain bike ride yesterday with an average heartbeat of 136 bpm and a peak of 169 bpm).

Running is over rated and is very hard on the back, feet and knees. I think your current workout recipe is fine, but more biking, hiking & climbing never hurt anyone. Also, when I'm heading out for a conditioning hike/climb I usually pack 4 - 6 plastic gallon milk jugs filled with water up to my high point and then empty them out and save my knees for the hike/climb down.

Haven't climbed it, but am planning to do so. My buddy who has via W. But cautioned against making the common mistake of some who bring a mega pack and get crushed. He further advised that the rule of thumb he used based on a 3-man team with each member having a total of 100 lbs gear etc. is a 60:40 ratio of weight distribution between sled and pack. In other words: a) plan on hauling 60 lbs in the sled and 40 lbs in your pack; and, b) your Osprey with a 5200 in3 capacity is probably fine.

Forest Carbon Sequestration: Some Issues for Forest Investments (http://www.rff.org/Documents/RFF-DP-01-34.pdf)... "Forests operate both as vehicles for capturing additional carbon and as carbon reservoirs. A young forest, when growing rapidly, can sequester relatively large volumes of additional carbon roughly proportional to the forest’s growth in biomass. An old-growth forest acts as a reservoir, holding large volumes of carbon even if it is not experiencing net growth. Thus, a young forest holds less carbon, but it is sequestering additional carbon over time. An old forest may not be capturing any new carbon but can continue to hold large volumes of carbon as biomass over long periods of time. Managed forests offer the opportunity for influencing forest growth rates and providing for full stocking, both of which allow for more carbon sequestration."