Bigtree

Ueli Steck was such an impressive fellow. Humble and so accomplished.

I know Ilse - Helmy's first wife. She's a wonderful woman and lives in Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. I've spoken with her a few times over the years about Fred and Helmy and as Puma describes above, its all positive stuff.

Has anyone recently skied Mt. Hood recently or has pictures of current conditions? I was musing about driving down from Vancouver Island this weekend for a quick summit and ski down from the Hogsback. Also, if I decide to leave the skis at home and ride down on the motorcycle does anyone know if there are public lockers anywhere around Timberline Lodge where I can store some riding gear? I haven't been down there for years and can't recall much there other than the lodge and a climbing register box. Thanks.

Does anyone know if there's lockers a person can rent near/around the Timberline Lodge. I'm thinking about riding my motorcycle down from Vancouver Island this weekend for a quick blast up the standard route and need a place to safely store my helmet/riding gear. Thanks.

What a great way to start my day reading a TR like this. Thanks for posting this. Looks like a fantastic trip.

Cool. Thanks.

Thanks guys. @JasonG, its no bid deal, I was trying to edit the TR below. Specifically, I wanted to delete the following text/YouTube video: "Here's a short 360 from the summit (some day I'll remember to hold my iPhone sideway for better/wider angle view) [video:youtube]" For some reason the link is no longer picking up my Mt. Olympus video and is picking up a video from a Yosemite trip I did instead...weird.

Can someone advise on how to edit posts? I was noodling around on the new site and wanted to make a small edit to an old TR but couldn't find any way to edit. Maybe its there, but its not obvious to me. Thanks.

Thanks, I think. No Honnold van I'm afraid. Just a full size rental car and 3 guys.

I'm heading down to Yosemite with a couple of friends next weekend for 10 days. Plan A was to spend our time climbing in the Tuolumne Meadows area. However, the Tioga Road is still closed due to heavy snowpack so the Lee Vinning option is out of the question. Plan B is to spend our time in the valley, but it appears impossible to get a site at Upper or Lower Pines campsites. Camp 4 is an option, but a gamble given demand/limited number of spots. Does anyone have any recommendations based on personal experience with camping options outside the park?

Mzamp, don't underestimate the effects an extra 1,000' of elevation may have on you trying to push onto IF for your day 1 camp. As well, there's real value to starting your summit day off right with a crap in one of the DC outhouses rather than shitting on the snow at IF and managing the blue bag.

Hey, thanks for the tip Kraken. Just listened to the first podcast with Charlie Sassara. Great stuff.

I enjoyed that TR. Looks like great fun. Will have to get up to that area of the Rockies one day.

I did that route a few years ago in June. Had to park at a turn out approx. 3 miles below Cold Springs and hike in. No big deal. You'll likely have to do the same in May but its a big snow year and so may end up parking/hiking considerably further.

Great TR Hunter. Way to get after it with family in tow. I'll have to try that strategy.

Nothing to worry about. You can totally camp for free anywhere in BC and not get hassled by the man: http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/victoria-tent-city-water-toilet-1.3582857

Climbed it a few years ago in June/similar snow conditions. We buried a picket in a t-slot on the summit and wrapped off that with full length 1/2 ropes (60 m). Worked like a charm.

Buckshot, I climbed this route a couple of years back in June. Conditions were fabulous in the early morning and we romped up the chimneys on nice frozen snow with just ice tools and crampons. However, after we tagged the summit the snow in the chimneys had turned deeply isothermic making the descent sloppy with heavy class 1 and 2 avalanches sweeping the chimneys. Getting caught in one was guaranteed to badly injure or kill. We took lots of time rappelling down and found good anchor placements to be few and far between. Same story one we got through the chimneys and had that long side sloping traverse back to our camp above Lake Anne. Here's some pics... https://picasaweb.google.com/111575070192381135928/MtShuksan02

Good work mthorman. Thanks for the TR and pictures.

Thanks for the pic G-spotter. Ilias, we made an attempt Saturday June 13. Got to the Uto/Sir Donald col but stopped there due to unfavourable conditions. Should be fine with a couple of more weeks of sun/warm temps. Bridges are all in and the approach was very straightforward. We'll be heading back for another go in mid August. Here's what it looked like from the col June 13...

I'm planning to head to the Rockies tomorrow for a week of climbing. Was hoping with the low snow this past winter that Mt. Sir Donald might be in. Would appreciate some feedback on observed conditions/snow level if you've driven through Rogers Pass in last week or two. Thanks.

All you need is a few gels and the legs and lungs of a 20 year old... [video:youtube]c1Tz_UhN1_U

Good stuff. Thanks.

Great story. Thanks for the share.