jordansahls

Its a shame that the Pirates board is gone, this song would have fit nicely. [video:youtube]w0T2dPyCEHc love the Bodom, saw these guys live a few months back. It was sick! [video:youtube]-pnE4HzOQ_8

Good thing there were no drugs around. Otto the Octopus

Awesome video! Looks like Sadie had a hell of a time, despite getting side swiped by a little bit of snow.

Yes.

I have had the Laphroaig quarter cask. That stuff was potent. Unless your are a smoke/peat fiend, I would stay the hell away. My guess is that the regular cask strength is good. I love the 10 and 15 year Laphroig malts, and the cask strength should be a little more on the peated side, but nowhere near as strong as the quarter cask.

This Scotch is amazing.

Yep, the road was in all the way to the gate at Eldorado Creek. I'm not sure what It looks like now, but that was the case last weekend.

Thats better than the blue smoke, right?

Trip: Eldorado Attempt - standard Date: 1/10/2010 Trip Report: It was with high hopes that Brian and I headed out the door at the early hour of 4 in the am. We have both been training for local endurance events and decided that the monotony of sitting on the spin bike or going up the stair stepper for hours held no appeal this particular weekend. Instead we thought it would be good to get a long day in while getting views. In this regard, Eldorado almost always delivers. The weather held the whole time, but with the local warming trend these last few weeks the snow pack was less than ideal. Instead of kicking steps up hill, we progressivly post stepped the whole way up (It also didn't help that I forgot my skins for my skies, Do'H!). It wasnt bad enough to get one to turn around, but not good enough to make the desired progress. We reached the Inspiration glacier around 4pm and decide to forgo the summit in the dark and ski our way out. The skiing was good down the Eldorado Glacier, but was complete shit the rest of the way down due to the very wet heavy snow. It wasn't a victory by any means, but it felt good to get out and gain some elevation. Classic J-burg views Torment looking good slow going up the Inspiration Feeling the wind as the sun starts to set To quote Brian, "Tired, Sore, Hungry, Getting Dark...I love this Sport". Gear Notes: We brought a rope, didn't need it. Actually, the more I climb this mountain the more I am comfortable leaving the rope at home, especially this time of year. Skis, preferably with skins. Approach Notes: No snow on the road.

[video:youtube]8uK6oJTyOmo

Good think He didn't grab the clip on his first fall, that could have sucked.

Went in to try and climb some of the ice around Lake 22 with no luck. There is almost nothing left from the last few weeks. Attempted to climb some mixed lines, but the rock is as crappy as the rotten, melted patches of frozen water that pass for ice.

Do any of you modify your picks? Is the stock pick design of say the Pezle blue ice pick (or cascade or whatever) still the best design for water ice?

Went out and climbed the Goatee on the 13th, it was in thick! Very fun climb. Tried to climb Grey falls with little luck. The weather was a little warmer. When we got to the first short tier there was a torrent of water running under the whole thing. you could see a few sections on clear ice with water bubbles and the like. We then decided to climb up and around and see how the upper falls where doing and it was even worse. My guess is that this climb is out for a while.

wow, thats some sweet looking climbing. Did you guys get a good look at NY gully? was it looking in at all?

Great post I like Sun, Very informative and helpful. I am wearing a pair of the green super feet for the meantime, and I am scheduled to go and see the physical terrorist here soon (I want to get strong for ski and ice season). I will mention my worries about "deactivating intrinsic foot muscles" as you put it, or in my case, re-strengthening those biomechanical pathways.

what, thats gnarly.

Thanks, I will definitely look into that.

I need some input from other climbers on this one. Around 5 years ago, I got a pair of orthotics for my knees due to collapsed arches. I used those orthotics for everything. every walk to class, climb, hike, ect. in the last 5 years has been in those orthotics. I never had any knee problems minus the occasional ache after a long, steep descent. Anyway, they died around a month back, I completely shredded them to dust. I kept climbing, and now my knees have been aching all the time, especially after a climb or hike. I think that my joints had adjusted so much to the orthotics that I experienced a rebound effect after I stopped use. So here is my dilemma, should I get another pair of orthotics (really expensive), or should I try something like Superfeet? I'm not sure if I should just go see the damned doctor, the last thing I want is a bunch of expensive testing. Thoughts, recommendations?

[video:youtube]CPFE64p78_k [video:youtube]4e94y4EjWGs

Yes, thanks for confirming - it's the 4p 5.8 (felt like 5.7 I recall) called "the Archer" which I did back in the day. I am guessing, but it seems to be so named due to the unusual stone arch which one walks across to get to the start of the route. A very unusual feature for this part of the country. I can tell you that we did not take that route. If you look in the route photo, the arch is on the gully opposite the one we took to get on the arete (look left in the picture). What about the 8p route Burdo is talking about, can anyone link me to his description or maybe paraphrase it for me? I'm having a hell of a time finding his book anywhere in Bellingham.

No raining on the parade, I put the TR with the purpose of seeing if it could hold against scrutiny. It seems that we either did the same route as the Burdo book, or took a variation of his route. Can someone post a description of the 2 5.8 pitches? Anyway, I will look into it.

Matt- We Cleaned a bit, but neglected to scrub thoroghly. For the most part, the route is fairly clear. The real pain was dealing with the lichen (as I'm sure you well know). A saw might have been handy at a few spots to prune the shrubbery. I think with a little more traffic and cleaning, the route could be a good, slightly more difficult alternative to Spontaneity arete. goatboy- No rush, thanks for taking a look.

Thanks everyone. goatboy, I would be very interested in hearing about the routes described in the Burdo book. I couldn't find anything anywhere in the Beckey book. We found bivy ledges on the top of the rock formation, but we saw no signs of anchors or anything while on "route". I did see some slings on the smaller rock formation sitting just left of the main one (Whitehorse rock)in the route photo. People have definitely climbed around this area.