jordansahls

Any thoughts on what is the best way to approach the North side of the Phalanx from the Neve Glacier?

That would be a painfull ordeal. The rock all the way up Fernow is shit, and so it 7fj, also Maude sucks ass for rock quality. I doubt that their is one pirtch of solid rock on the whole thing. Anyone who has the balls to do a direct summit ridge travers of those peaks deserves lots of respect.

Cool, I was looking at the pic with Stuart in the background, good stuff. Anyway, my guess is that the conditions on your climb are a better indicator for Stuart than any pictures.

Sweet, great pics! Not bad for a fat ass. How was the road? You don't by chance have any beta pics on Stuart?

In an industrial setting, the letters are *rolled* on so that they press into the surface. The piece being worked is backed solidly so that all the energy goes into deforming the letters into the surface. A home die set applied with a hammer applies shock force, perhaps unevenly and without regard to the possible loadpath a fall might deliver. But you know that. I agree. In Industry the hot press doesn't create micro fractures in the material. Any material scientist can tell you that micro fractures are the first sign of failure. By striking the material you are creating stress raisers (flaws that amplify an applied stress) in your carabiners. Those micro fractures will propogate over time causing the part to fail. Still, lots of things can cause these micro fractures (such as dropping or striking your carabiners). In the end, its just smarter to throw some electrical tape on them.

I wonder when the Willis Wall will be jumped?

Has anyone else noticed that even if you own a hundred pairs of boxers, the only ones available when you get up in the mornings are the ones without the button to keep everything "in"? It seems like the button either falls off or is lost somehow. Nothing like going for a run where you have to tuck everything back in constantly.

A few friends and I went in to climb Buck peak via King lake late in the season. We ended up 'shwacking through devils club into a large ground bee nest. My friend Brian and I booked it up hill, the whole while Brian was getting stung. Once we were a safe distance away Brian checked out his damage. He was stung over 10 times, and was also hyper sensitive to bee stings when he was younger. I somehow made it out with no stings whatsoever. We made it out ok, but everyone else suffered some sting other than myself. Another time I went up late at night with my brother and a friend to the Mt. Baker ski area to get on the ice and just play around. My brother brought the tent body, but forgot the polls. So one person slept in the car (small Honda) while the myself and my friend Zach tied the tent body to the car and made a lean-to. Around 2 in the morning a snow plow comes barreling through and almost runs us over. The snow plow takes out part of the tent and leaves us buried under a foot of snow. That piece of shit snowplow driver was probably laughing his ass off.

What would you say about the difficulty of this route with the conditions you had?

Ueli Steck is not human.

I like Dragonforce, but it seems like a lot of their songs sound the same.

AFAIK, this is not known to be true. It's an idea people are studying, and the mere fact that scientists are studying it has led many to believe it's true. Believe me, we'll all know when they find "the gay gene." Can you imagine the media frenzy? "How could God make people gay and then condemn them for how he made them?" This wont be a problem for the Calvinists.

That makes sense, thanks.

I was reading Mark Twight's book, "Extreme Alpinism", and I ran into a part where he started to talk about 'alpine aiding'. I don't realy know what that means. Is seemed to have to do with less attachments, or degrees of freedom, or something like that? Is it just aiding on the fly, or what? Basically I don't know anything about aiding. I stick mostly to alpinism (the non-aiding kind), trad, ect. Someone educate me!

I can imagine the situation for her kids. Child #1 - Hey, did you know that mom wrote a book? Child #2 - No, I wonder what its about? Child #1 - Me too, lets check it out. Those children don't have a popsicals chance in hell.

If you think that you can get into climbing without forking over some mulla, you are in for a painful surprise. It takes time and money to acquire all the gear necessary. Many of the famous rock climbers and alpanists are poor, or started out poor. Read up on Ed Viestures, before he made it big with his endeavor 8000 adventure, he spent most of his time living in a dank basement working construction, scraping to get by. Its only the rich philanthropists that can afford to dish out 50 grand for an Everest bid, and most of those people aren't climbers. Save up some money, and start small. Work your way into, and you will make the connections necessary to chase your dreams, hopefully without the sexual favors 8D .

I think your jumping the gun a little on this one. By "motivated" partner do you mean someone who has all the goals that you have? First thing you should do is just learn the ropes. You can worry about a suitable partner when you have acquired the skills necessary for the climbs you want to do. You first priority should be to get the training. Don't expect the fairy climbing mother to magic you away on some climbing adventure. It's all up to you if you really want to get out there and do it.

The Outdoor Center at Western is taking a group up to Lillooet during the same time. No idea how large of a group it is.

Lots of water, and Emergen C, that shit rocks!

Mountain booze is a good thing. Nothing compares to sitting in base camp sipping on a flask of Wild Turkey or Red Breast.

This is my tick list for this year, we will see how many get climbed. Realistically I will be lucky to climb a quarter of these routes, but it’s good to have goals, right? Baker -N ridge -Coleman headwall -park glacier/headwall Shuksan -N face -Price glacier Redoubt, NE face Buckner, N face Eldorado -NW coulior -W arete Liberty bell group -anything and everything in the moderate range Rainier -Fuhrur finger -Liberty Ridge Goode, NE ridge

Thanks for all the kind words. Great route, highly recommended.

Yeah, there is a short WI3 up to a little step. Once on the step you have 2 options. 1.) Climb directly up the ice face, probably 15 meters of WI4, or.. 2.) Take the gully to your right, WI/AI 2+ We opted to take the gully on the right because it offered some protection from the spin drift that was hammering us on the direct line.

amazing weather, couldn't have asked for better. It was very very cold though. I ended up getting a little bit of frost nip on my hands and feet.