Choada_Boy

My impressions, from the summit of Ruth, on August 22: Death. Good luck with that!!

FYI Glacier Creek Road to N. Side of Baker is wiped out right now. 4mi hike to TH, road is clear of snow to there. Enjoy!

Anyone willing to share their systems for Rope Solo and Aid Soloing? Specifically back-up knots and protocol, and rope management systems for multi-pitch climbs. Any info, really.... Silent Partner users able to contribute would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Sorry, but I gotta call BS on this one, IMHO. I would classify it as "No Fucking Way" from the cruxes in the top two couloirs, especially so in what I would consider "ideal" conditions for a solo.

Death Picnic looks grim...

Gear For Sale! Located in Bellingham, everything listed is clean, bright, and alright! SCARPA Freney XT Boots (43M) Great boot for Ice/Mixed/Alpine. Very precise, very good condition, plenty of miles left on them. 4.3lbs $100 $60!! ($20 S&H) Patagonia Mixmaster Pants (32M) Comfy pants for Alpine pursuits. Good condition, home-made stirrups, no crampon tears, but small repair on outside of lower right leg. $100 $50!! ($10 S&H) Black Diamond Storm Headlamp Mint condition. $30 $20 (Free Shipping!!)

Those guns aren't loaded, so I guess it's safe. Climb on!!

Drew: Where was your first picture taken? It looks like a road or tracks down near the shoreline... Follow Up Question: In your experience, how much of the recent increase (seemingly) in mass wasting do you feel can be directly attributed to climate change?

Dodged a bullet on that one...on a geologic time scale. We would have been obliterated.

ZOIKS!!!!

Also East Face Couloir of White Chuck. That was a fun one!

Looks like he packed on some pounds since his Alpinist Cover. Sick FA, Bra!!

I read that they left their rappel devices at the Bone Cairn.

Parbat, not parpat.

I remember a similar thing a bunch of years ago, on Nanga Parpat’s Rupal Face. I watched this one play out for the last week or so, on mountain.ru. I also figured he was a goner, bur still held out hope, until late last night. I got chills down my spine when they posted: “Saved!” Russian climbers are hard dudes, though, so I am not too surprised. They almost summited, again, this was their second attempt. His partner fell with most of their gear. F#ck that!

Anyone else been following this? Holy shit!! https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/alexander-gukov-rescued-on-latok-1.html

Sad sad sad. The article had them climbing at 8,9000 feet....

Please get a copy of "Sheep Quest" to Polish Bob. I think his article about "Advanced Technique" is in the current issue.

But enough about Wayne... What do you think of Wayne?

Todd "Kabob" fell descending the N Slope of N Twin Sister, solo, got impaled by his ice axe, rode his bike out, drove to the Welcome Store on SR542, and collapsed and almost bled to death on the floor in front of the horrified cashier. He didn't really know what had happened to himself (in shock and all). Point with that is that the N Slope descent can be steep and tricky under certain conditions. I think it is six miles in from the gate to the start of the West Rdige.

https://www.outsideonline.com/2289861/alex-honnolds-new-nemesis

Super Heroes take risks. Normal people do not. That's what makes Super Heroes Super Heroes and not normal people. "Superman" is not called "Normal Man" for a reason: Normal Man is fucking boring. Everyone is agog at Honnold, for whatever reason, from "He's amazing!" to "He's going to kill himself!". Replace "Alex" with "Superman" and it all makes sense. "Superman! You shouldn't have taken such incredible risks to save Lois!" But he did, and he lived, and he's a hero. Until he dies and then he's dead and everyone can go on and on about how he was taking too many risks and that she wasn't worth it. He does love her, though... Perhaps an innate human tendency to have intense feelings towards risk takers. Not selected for, in the evolutionary sense.

Turns out: "1%" is scary dangerous

Yeah. Wheeee....