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motomagik

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Everything posted by motomagik

  1. Good ones! I did the same on "Angie" a couple months ago. They heal a lot faster than i thought they would!
  2. motomagik

    Worst climb

    Hey thats another of my favorite Smithy climbs! Especially the top part, thats great fun. It's kind of weird i like these routes that no one else likes...
  3. motomagik

    Worst climb

    i think you mean wedding day...or are you trying to *ahem* boast?? Oh yeah....Wedding Day....thanks for the correction....its 10.b right. That climb sucks. I almost sold my rack and never climbed again after that experience. Ooops, I forgot the quote... Anyways, I love this climb, it's one of my favorites at Smithy. Some crimps, some jugs, great feet, whats not to like?
  4. motomagik

    George W.

    I read about this at lunch today, thought it was pretty good... http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20070519/ap_on_re_us/carter_bush
  5. motomagik

    new bike

    You will also want the higher clearance for fenders if you are going to be commuting. i commute on my road bike because it's all i have, but I have discovered its impossible to get regular fenders on it because it has about 1/4" of clearance.
  6. want good core strength? check out www.crossfitportland.com or www.crossfitnorth.com for you seattle-ites.
  7. I agree, it's an entertaining read - her story is pretty amazing, especially the 80 footer she took when she forgot to tie in! Steph Davis also has a book out that I have been meaning to pick up, haven't heard any reviews on it though... Oh, and the Annapurna one is fun too, if a bit outdated.
  8. I'm sorry, but everyone knows that getting up is only half the battle, especially with poor weather coming in. Not being able to get yourself down without putting your team at risk is not safe. I am aware of the short rope technique, I guess it is a difference of opinion.
  9. **RANT RANT RANT** I climbed Leutholds on Fri night/Sat morning. We knew bad weather was coming. We left earlier then planned, we moved fast, we knew there was a short weather window, till about noon on Saturday. The weather came in exactly as it was foecasted. "surprise snowstorm?" my ass. We got to the summit at 9, saw the dark clouds and the winds coming up and said, it's time to get the hell out of dodge, glad we left early and made good time. They don't need mandatory MLUs up there, they need mandatory IQ tests. They also need to charge for rescues. Maybe these jackasses will take the mountain a little more seriously. I was amazed at how many people were still trudging up the mountain at 11:00 or 12:00 on Saturday when we were on our way down, when the snow showers were starting, right on schedule. Never mind the scene I had witnessed earlier, a "short rope team" of 5 people, literally, slipping and sliding down the west crater... seriously the one girl fell 5 times. If you can't walk down a snowy hill without falling on your ass the whole way, you shouldn't be allowed to climb a ladder much less a mountain. In short, I'm glad I climbed Leutholds, it was a great route, because now I don't have any inclination to go up Hood ever again. It's downright embarrassing. I'm embarrassed for the rest of the climbing community who take climbing seriously and embarrassed for the rescuers who take their jobs seriously. These last 3 situations on Hood were all due to the same problem, weather that was forecast way in advance that people ignored. I hope they pass legislation to charge for rescues, it's the only reasonable solution I can think of to make people take a little responsibility for themselves. Maybe if it cost 10k for the cavalry to come people will think twice about their decisions.
  10. Looks like Kevbone is the only one who likes honeydew... hmmm interesting.
  11. I really don't like honeydew. honest. is that weird? I mean it's not like it's the most disgusting thing ever or anything, but I find if it's in my fruit salad I usually skip it...
  12. ewww honeydew is yucky. cantaloupe all the way.
  13. motomagik

    Sleep

    Well maybe someday your kids will be grown and you will find sleep again! Or, they'll be the kind that lives with their mom till they are 35... in that case no sleep for you!
  14. motomagik

    Sleep

    you don't have children do you? Nope. I'm far too selfish... not to mention poor!
  15. motomagik

    Sleep

    I love a good sleep, 8-9 hours at least for sure.
  16. motomagik

    PDX Pub Club

    The SW one is way better... they have tasty pizza
  17. That one is on my list for the summer for sure. Can't wait! Thanks for the pic!
  18. Crossfit baby! www.crossfitportland.com Basically the best overall/core strength/metabolic workout, in a way fun/competitive group. Check it out.
  19. Nice! I have no idea when I will get back to Red Rocks, but this one has been on my list forever.
  20. I just bought a pair of the women's version - and i highly recommend them, even though I've only climbed in them once! The women's version has a couple awesome features that the mens doesn't have - a padded heel (the best feature ever, it doesn't cut into your ankle) and a padded tongue.
  21. it is statements like this that help me to understand why despite all americans do to "help" other countries, that we are the most hated country on the planet. we think we are so much better and smarter and have i all figured out. i think it is a great idea to go and climb with people who want to and to teach them and maybe even help them set up a business if you you want to. but do you have to be so condesending about it? muslim women have been surviving against all odds for centeries before there was such a thing as the USA. and likely they are stronger, more fit, and spritualy more powerful than any of us could hope to be. its like californication to the next level. So, if the guides participating in this project were from Canada, or Europe, would this project be less controversial? You're right, America is hated over seas. Because we wage war on innocent countries and kill thousands of people for our own selfish political agenda and hide it under a guise of "bringing democracy to oppressed nations". I think comparing this to this project is a bit of a stretch. The guides going there are going to teach whoever wants to learn, they are not forcing anything on anyone.
  22. Thanks Sherri! I think that we are putting too much stock into the political "what if's". There is so much going on in these countries that I seriously doubt a project of this size would have any large repercussions. Thats speculation of course. What I see is an amazing opportunity to inspire a handful of women, give them an opportunity that they would probably never experience otherwise, and maybe have a longstanding effect on their lives. Whats not to support?
  23. i'm sure if we let these industries self-regulate, the market would find an optimal solution. no need for federal regulation here. these aren't the 'droids you're looking for. move along. I don't think I understand this statement. We should let companies like Monsanto self-regulate? Fabulous idea, soon we won't have worry about those pesky insects, worms, birds, etc. We will live a happily sterile life eating tasteless strawberries coated in pesticide that are the size of your head.
  24. Good questions, I'm not sure of the answers. I think since government and religion are not exactly seperate that the repression they face comes from both sides. But mainly from government as they enact the laws and arrest the women? As for non-Muslim ladies in these countries, I have no idea. Are there very many? I doubt it.
  25. Normally I would agree with this statement but not in the case of a Muslim country. In other places, where women are already considered equals, of course this would be true. But in places where women can be arrested for wearing brightly colored scarves, they need to have the chance to shine on their own. I think this sounds like an amazing opportunity, and an excellent cause. In all muslim countries women are standing up for their basic human rights, and the world should be supportive. i thought that was Afaganastan You mean Afghanistan? And yes, they are a predominantly muslim country as well. Actually the particular instance that I was referring to I beleive happened in Iran, I can't remember. Does it matter? The point was that Muslim women are horribly repressed and have zero basic human rights. But some are taking tremendous risks to facilitate change, and that is amazing and inspiring.
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