DanielHarro

Last spring I brought a 6mm PMI tag line with me to the Alaska rage and it only lasted 10-12 rapels before I got a core shot it in... Average about $10 buck per rapel. I am going to look at the Mammut 6mm ProCord for this season. Where can you find the 6mm Alpine Personal Escape Rope at?

Buy some from dane, they are the best or have him cut some Petzl picks for your BD tools... http://coldthistletools.blogspot.com/

I have had nothing but great experience with everyone at CiloGear and their packs are amazing!

Nice send!

GH2 is too large in my opinion. Look at the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF2, it is just a little bigger than the LX5, really nice camera. http://www.dpreview.com/previews/panasonicdmcgf2/

Thanks for the TR John! Nice stoke!

where is golden mean?

Nice!

hellz yeah!!! Nice Send!!

Thanks for the write up, I like your new Nomics! I am supprized how much the tool swing changes when you add the Petzl hammer on, I can see why the light you can make the hammer and the closer the weight is to the head can really make a difference. I am looking forward to your new CT hammer!

suck! Why cant a company make a product that is strong and durable for us who use our gear like it is supposed to be use, I mean these boots are like $500 bucks! Whats up?

Sweet! Sounds like you had a great adventure!!

when on approaches I use a wind-block fleece glove or a liner power-stretch type glove. I know what you are saying about hand sweat, I found that if I take less layers off of my core my hands stay cooler, or if I add say a puffy vest under my shell my hands stay warmer. Cold training your hand helps as well.

yeah snow in AK is more dry, but I was in waist deep to head deep unconsolidated snow and had to excavate and tunnel up peak 11,300. During the day time I never took my gloves off an I think that helped. As far as the membrane goes I would be curious what the actual differences are.

I used one pair the punisher gloves which have the BDry for three days straight in AK last spring through wallowing conditions and my hands stayed dry, I was pretty amazed. I have a pair of MH gloves with the Outdry and have been very impressed as well. I also have a pair of older OR Extravert gloves with Gortex and have had good luck. So as far as keeping hands dry I have not noticed a huge difference, but I think the outdry works the best from my tests, I have not been disjointedness with the punisher though.

I used imovie 08' and I need to upgrade to the new 11'.

Thanks. I am still working on the whole video editing thing and I am getting better with each video. I no know more about voice over so the next video should be better.

I recently purchased a set of new Quarks for "the boss" and was anxious to try and use the upper hand match / trigger on my old style quarks and this is what I found. The trigrest does not fit the old Quark in the way it works on the new Quark. Meaning it is not able to move up and down the shaft, so it is used as a fixed piece. Here it is on the upper shaft. Here is the trigrest lower down on the shaft. Note that I am using the trigger as well, but you do not have too. It get a super sold fit, it may be beneficial to use a small rubber shim for a tight fit. Here is a comparison of the two tools. They have almost identical dimensions. Old quark 24ounces New quark 20 ounces Feel free to post questions, ideas or comments.

Dually is hands down the best piece I have ever purchased from Arcteryx and was well worth the money (I got it on sale) for my trips to AK. I also like their Alpha LT jacket, and Gamma MX pants work super well, and Cierzo packs are nice. Find the stuff on sale and its not bad at all, Arcteryx fits me better then the Westcomb gear.

yeah uncle Ted....

Old license plate cut to fit.

Dane- What about the new Lasportiva Batura Evo? http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/11A you better order them up!!

Jay- I love both of your trip reports, great reads for sure!! I still think climbing the col between the Rooster Comb and Huntington was crazy! I was looking at that during out trip and I seen quite a few slides on the entire face! We were luck we experianced no avalanches! Thanks for the TR's again Jay!!! Feel free to post others, I am sure you have some more cool adventures!

Wfinley- The avalanche danger was a concern, but the sugar was surprisingly stable. During the steep trenching things got a bit more sketchy since their was no pro and the sugar was not inspiring confidence. The most scary moment was when Eric too a fall of the first cornices section while we were simul climbing together. The second most scary moment is after the fall I led the rest of the corniced section and a 20-25 foot wide by 40ish feet long section of the cornice broke right in front of me, I almost crapped my pants. Daniel Harro

I was thinking of your TR while I was climbing, but once you rap into the second col "up is down." Looks like you and Seth had some redemption on the ice pyramid!!!