kevbone

To retro bolt a route means to add bolts to an existing route.

Bird on Bird action, wow that sounds great, what about chick on chick?

If its totally unclimbed rock, bolt away! Be sure about it, then its up to you. Personally a dirty poorly unprotected runout slab that got done a hundred years ago by someone who did not have the tecnology or ethics to rap bolt, and never gets climbed. Is a waste of rock.

I agree, thanks for the effort! But one thing you will never convince me of is that hikers, who range in the hundreds of thousands, dont endanger the birds as much as the (maybe 100) climbers who visit Beacon every season. I know this is the way it is, that does not make it right. If they were completely true hearted with no politics in mind about saving the birds ( who got taken off the federal endagered species list in FEB of 01, the entire rock would be closed. We all know this will never happen, so we or I am left to bitch and moan on this web site. Oh well!

Mark, to my knowledge the pay to park was taken away, it free to park there now.

Joe, once again thank you for your hard work our there. That being said, I know bitching about the rock to you (you having no authority to open the rock) is not going to get the rock open, but I am only trying to make a point. If no one knows exactly where the nest is, then how do we know that the nest is not under the trail on the west face, clearly in danger of pedestrians kicking rock and debris down in the nest. I recall the biologist statement 8 years ago. “I want no one within 300 feet of the nest”. If that being the case, they need to close the entire rock down. But we cant do that because know one knows where the nest is. So if know one knows where the nest is, then its mind-boggling to think they can justify any closing of the rock. That why I say the climbers are scapegoats. They have no Basis for the closing just the south face. You should be pushing for a complete closure or complete opening, we are just being strung along.

Joe, if no one know exactly were the nest is, they realy have NO basis for closing just the climbing area, I mean maybe the nest is 20 feet from the top were all the tourist are or maybe not a beacon at all. If you dont know where the nest is, its all a sham. Dont you see, the birds are just patsy's to keep us in check. They have no foundation for keeping the rock climbing portion of beacon closed, they cant make the argument that me climbing there will in any way endanger the birds, because they dont know where the birds are. Get my drift.

Some climbers are super human mutant strength, like Tommy caldwell, that guy has raised the bar so high, its hard not to admired this accomlishments, and he is a very humble guy as well. Cliffhanger rules!!!! for a b rate movie.

Its been a while, whats with the birds. One question, If they know they are flying or about to fly, then do they know where the nest it?

Sounds like "4 quarter inchers" is a poorly bolted scary route that probably does not see alot of accents, not nessesarly prouder.

Why did you go and chop them?

Michael, you spend more time on this web site than anybody else does. I swear you post on evertopic and make shit up to spray about all the time. When do you get out and enjoy the outdoors. I know you climbed some first accent last year. Congrats on that, but to make a statement like "nazi rapist jesus crucifying homos." because I choose to hid behind my little computer. Wow, I have alot less respect for you.

Just one question, are you a member? If so there would be no questions asked. I even returned a climbing rope there after about 5 rides on it. They gave me a new one without question. Why did buy 2 shitty helmets?

Bend is growing fast!! Get in while you can, Smith rules. The high desert rules also.

The north ridge is about a 10 mile approach with about 1200 feet of climbing or more, with about 5000 feet of elevation gain and loss, are you up for it?

Come on folks, cant we all just get along? Bolts, no bolts, repoint no repoint. Just climb for yourselves, no one else. Have fun. and quit bitching about things you cant controll, like a 4 inch hole in some rock somewhere that you dont own anyway!!! Just go out and repoint, send, boulder stickclip or not, If you feel you have accomplished something when you leave the climbing area, thats all that matters. After that feeling, its nothing but ego!!!

This is what I love about this site, the drama is better than any tv show!!!

Remember the golden rule: Treat people how you would want them to treat you! Would you want someone to chop your bolts that you painstakenly placed?

Rap bolting is not shitty ethics, instead its the sign if a smart climber, most climbs that require bolts that were put up on lead are poorly protected. Rapping is the only way to be sure the bolt goes in the right place, the best route are TR first.

Do the bolts abstruct the holds at the top? Are they realy doing anyone any harm? Not including ego! 15 feet is far enough to fall and get hurt. Starting a war over a piece of rock is counter productive. Maybe trying to find the person and disscusing it might be the best approch. They did not acctually retro a route, since the only way to climb the route is to solo it. No one owns the rock. It is a hard call.

Thanks bill for cleaning, portland needs new routes, cleaning dirt out of cracks and off of faces is super hard work. Once again thanks for taking the time to clean. As far as putting anchors in, you know I am a fan of not topping out on singe pitch cliffs, expecially where the soil is not stable and there is an abudance of that poison stuff. If the routes are new, then it is entirely your call as to how you want to climb it and protect it. Maybe put the anchor is such a place that you have to climb the route to get to them or rap it. Some climbs there you can walk up to the anchor from the top. As for the bolts, I like the five piece rawls. Or the studs you gave Jim a while ago! Those are bomer! Once again, thanks for doing vertical cleaning, I know how painstaking that kind of work is.

Maybe we should put a large 4 foot carved wooded owl on big ledge in the back so no one on the ground can see it, the birds will never nest there again.

How is the bird watching going?

How many accents does City Park have?

I dont care if is climbed it or not, he should not have put in on camera, and not sprayed about it.