kevbone

Killer dude, I did that a couple of years ago. Way fun.

Mark, Stewart placed a pin on rappell, so I guess it was not all gear! I did try to do anything out there, I respect to bolting all the climbable rock, I just took it as it came. I personaly dont think much of the gear out ther. I another thing, I stated the first month I showed up out there. I was only going to put up sport routes. You act like gear climbing is the only climbing. I disagree. That place is a sport climbing crag, with a few good placement hear and there. Im not the only one who put bolts where you MIGHT be able to throw in some crapy gear. I personaly have climbed 4 routes there onsight WITH bolts and did not clip any of them. So if your going to be strict, you should adress all the culprets.

Your right and I would never touch anyones routes. In the same respect I would hope no one would touch one of mine. I will end by saying this: I have learned a great deal about putting routes up in the last year and a half. I have learned you cant please everyone. As soon as know, if you add a bolt, someone out there wont like it and will bitch about it, and another group will praise you for it. I have ceased to try to please everyone, for this will never happen. I stand behind every bolt I have placed. And every route I have put up or been a part of. I you dont like it, go climb something else.

Mark, I did not grid bolt anything and you know it. As far as monopolizing. The rock is open access to anyone, in other words the other climbers in the area had all last year to come out and put a route up and they choose to go climbing instead of putting in a ton of hard labor cleaning and cleaning and cleaning so I and you can enjoy new climbs, I bolted them in how I see fit, being I am the first person to climb and clean it. Now that the crag is out in the public eye, (at least 20 to 25 new climbers went there in the last 2 weeks)Im getting feed back to some of the routes there. I would say 95% of the climbers think its was bolted great. Some of them walk up and shake my hand thanking me for the well bolted lines and just the hard work it must have been cleaning for a year. I let them know It was not just me who worked out there. And I dont take them to just my climbs, for all the climbs there are good. So In retrospect, Im getting the feeling that we (all who helped in anyway) did a bang up job out there. For this seems to be the consensus. As far as my area, Portland. I would and have never touched another persons route in anyway. As far as ethics: I think we can all agree you dont touch another persons route, right? Then whats the big deal! PS, I never said "Bold first accents are a waist of rock" I said when A route gets done with crazy runouts and is super bold with no pro ( mostly in the 70's and 80's) then never gets done again, then gets overgrown, this is a waist of rock.

Bill, your rad. Im heading out to Jimmycliff, if you up for it.

G-spotter, no one is forcing you to clip all the bolts, remember the bolts are place there for one reason, to keep you from decking. If you get hurt, you dont climb, end of story.

I agree it is an adventure climbing poorly protected routes, I personaly would never touch another persons route, even though I want to and have thought about it. I still think a bad bolting job is a waste of rock considering it might be a great climb with great moves, but it does not protect and the risk of falling and getting hurt so you cant climb anymore, makes it a shitty climb. And it gets overgrown and nobody climbs and it becomes wasted rock. This is the case with several climbs in my area. I believe it is the responsibility of the FA to think about other climbers who will follow in there footsteps and climb the route who might not be as good or dont have a topo or beta. Putting up routes is a big deal and carries a huge responsibility. Doing a shitty job is unsatifatory in my book. Its all about having fun and lying in a hospital beacause you took a bad fall on a poorly protected climb is not having fun. I have put up over a dozen climbs and the I like to think I think about the other climbers who will climb this route after I have left the area. I like to focus on the movement of the climb with out having to fret about falling into a ledge because I was to lazy to add pro. This of course is my opinion! And we all have our own reasons for climbing. I am aware that I dont have to climb the runout climb and chances are I wont. I still think it is a waste.

You want to change a X for and R? Nobody owns the rock, not you, not them, it would me best to try your damnest to get both to approve, but in the end its real up to you. If the FA did not do a resposible bolting job, Fuck em. As long as you are fucking with the route, you might as well do it right, no X, R, or PG 13 routes. Its just a waist of rock.

To retro bolt a route means to add bolts to an existing route.

Bird on Bird action, wow that sounds great, what about chick on chick?

If its totally unclimbed rock, bolt away! Be sure about it, then its up to you. Personally a dirty poorly unprotected runout slab that got done a hundred years ago by someone who did not have the tecnology or ethics to rap bolt, and never gets climbed. Is a waste of rock.

I agree, thanks for the effort! But one thing you will never convince me of is that hikers, who range in the hundreds of thousands, dont endanger the birds as much as the (maybe 100) climbers who visit Beacon every season. I know this is the way it is, that does not make it right. If they were completely true hearted with no politics in mind about saving the birds ( who got taken off the federal endagered species list in FEB of 01, the entire rock would be closed. We all know this will never happen, so we or I am left to bitch and moan on this web site. Oh well!

Mark, to my knowledge the pay to park was taken away, it free to park there now.

Joe, once again thank you for your hard work our there. That being said, I know bitching about the rock to you (you having no authority to open the rock) is not going to get the rock open, but I am only trying to make a point. If no one knows exactly where the nest is, then how do we know that the nest is not under the trail on the west face, clearly in danger of pedestrians kicking rock and debris down in the nest. I recall the biologist statement 8 years ago. “I want no one within 300 feet of the nest”. If that being the case, they need to close the entire rock down. But we cant do that because know one knows where the nest is. So if know one knows where the nest is, then its mind-boggling to think they can justify any closing of the rock. That why I say the climbers are scapegoats. They have no Basis for the closing just the south face. You should be pushing for a complete closure or complete opening, we are just being strung along.

Joe, if no one know exactly were the nest is, they realy have NO basis for closing just the climbing area, I mean maybe the nest is 20 feet from the top were all the tourist are or maybe not a beacon at all. If you dont know where the nest is, its all a sham. Dont you see, the birds are just patsy's to keep us in check. They have no foundation for keeping the rock climbing portion of beacon closed, they cant make the argument that me climbing there will in any way endanger the birds, because they dont know where the birds are. Get my drift.

Some climbers are super human mutant strength, like Tommy caldwell, that guy has raised the bar so high, its hard not to admired this accomlishments, and he is a very humble guy as well. Cliffhanger rules!!!! for a b rate movie.

Its been a while, whats with the birds. One question, If they know they are flying or about to fly, then do they know where the nest it?

Sounds like "4 quarter inchers" is a poorly bolted scary route that probably does not see alot of accents, not nessesarly prouder.

Why did you go and chop them?

Michael, you spend more time on this web site than anybody else does. I swear you post on evertopic and make shit up to spray about all the time. When do you get out and enjoy the outdoors. I know you climbed some first accent last year. Congrats on that, but to make a statement like "nazi rapist jesus crucifying homos." because I choose to hid behind my little computer. Wow, I have alot less respect for you.

Just one question, are you a member? If so there would be no questions asked. I even returned a climbing rope there after about 5 rides on it. They gave me a new one without question. Why did buy 2 shitty helmets?

Bend is growing fast!! Get in while you can, Smith rules. The high desert rules also.

The north ridge is about a 10 mile approach with about 1200 feet of climbing or more, with about 5000 feet of elevation gain and loss, are you up for it?

Come on folks, cant we all just get along? Bolts, no bolts, repoint no repoint. Just climb for yourselves, no one else. Have fun. and quit bitching about things you cant controll, like a 4 inch hole in some rock somewhere that you dont own anyway!!! Just go out and repoint, send, boulder stickclip or not, If you feel you have accomplished something when you leave the climbing area, thats all that matters. After that feeling, its nothing but ego!!!

This is what I love about this site, the drama is better than any tv show!!!