kevbone

OK, I think everyone appreciates the anchor replacements (even if some did not need to be replaced), but as far as posting about Beacon on the web: The proof is in the pudding! I scanned/read through almost the entire 16 pages of Beacon Rock posting/squabbling last night. I would say almost 98% of the folks clearly stated it was BAD idea to post about Beacon. This stat is not my opinion. A fact is a fact, read it yourself. So Joe, if you are concerned there is not a consensus to stop, please take the time to really read back and look at all the requests to stop posting on THIS site. Another idea would be that fact that you are always defending yourself as to why you won’t stop. This would be an indication as to the atmosphere surrounding your posts. Once again, I appreciate the work, you know that

Are you claiming the FFA?

Arent put in piton about 8 or 9 years ago and it was about 35 feet up, just before you get your first crappy piece in. I know I belayed him, it was done on lead. I believe it has been removed. To my understanding Robert Mcgownin has the first FFA on Stone Rodeo.

John, Goatboy summed it up. I have climbed the north ridge twice and the west ridge once. The first time (7 years ago on the north ridge) we tried bivying on the route. NEVER AGAIN, I then learned the approach and were to camp. I climbed the north ridge (second time) and the west ridge with about 10-15 pounds on my back. Went tent to tent and had a great outing. Hiked out the next day and back to Ptown. We truly relaxed and enjoyed the day. No rush, no weight and no injuries.

If thats the criteria for being a member. Then come March-July there is no BRCA.

Phillip, I would like to see you solo Mr. Bentley. I will even spot you. Stone Rodeo does have mank on it, and is run by today standards. Has anybody out there climbed it? Is it a good route worth working on?

Truce (white flag): Joe, to perfectly honest the feedback I have gotten it the bolt is a good idea, I think most peoples frustration is the style it which is was put it. With that being said may I give a suggestion as to fixing this problem for the future? If you or anybody wants to add bolts to an existing route (that most likely needs it): first, contact the FFA or die trying: Second, put it out there in the climbing community and lets all discuss it. Then you would hear what people have to say about it before it happens, which could say a lot of heartache. I wanted to put two bolts on a long standing top rope at Broughtons so we could lead it. Well I asked about it on CC.com and the reaction I received was it would not be a good idea. So I did not. I personally don’t like arguing about my church (beacon). And we all enjoy it to its fullest. And we/you can not please everyone. This, of course is merely a suggestion.

do it in three days and relax and enjoy it.

"Well, on the SE Corner tree rap anchor discussion - I did change course and remove them and after we checked with Lisa Lantz, the WSP SW Resource Steward, the decision was made not to add more gravel to the tree base and so we didn't." I think the point is, you heard it from several local climbers on this subject and the only thing that changed your mind was the officials, not the climbers consensous.

Documenting your work is great, Joe, and a decade of clueless, petty squabbling is bad. I agree. Just not on this site. Cant you document it in some other way and give it to the state park in such a way as to I or other people dont see it on the web? Beacause if you dont, it truly shows its all about you. In other words, if you truly were selfless abou this, you would not tell anybody you were doing it. Facts: we agree, documenting is good. We agree, bad blood between climbers and rangers, bad. There has to be another way to keep the rangers in the loop without alerting the world as well? Idea: Could you post this stuff on the Beacon rock state web site? That way if someone wants to find out whats up they can access it through the state.

Wow, thats I feel about you Joe. No matter what is said or done, you twist it into why your right..... Again, Joe, as far as I can tell, no one is telling or asking you to stop helping/fixing anchors. We or I am just asking to stop posting and cataloging it on this web site. Its bad for Beacon.

Joe, if you want to catalog all you have done out there, strictly for the BRSP, what if I personally bought you a 3 ring binder with file separators and a shiny new pen. Then you could print off a copy for you constituents at the park. Would that work? I think you cataloging all you do out there is more for you than anyone else. I see your eye light up with pride every time a person comes up and thanks you for doing all this work; I have to grab a hold of you so you don’t float away being how big your head gets. You think I am being sarcastic, well im serious, please find another way to document your work. I can tell from knowing you and seeing you posts and your work with a computer that you are smart. Im sure you can find another way.

I was there yesterday, moving all the frickin wood from the front of the house. what a pain in 100 degree wheather.

Have I gone drill crazy out at Beacon? You know the answer to that. So bringing up other areas is way off the subject. "No, I didn't ask Olson about it" I think this says is all. You completed disregarded a 50 year tradition. Why? Just for access. Thats not up to you, if you dont like it, go climb something else. As far a thiefing, I was quoting someone else. That is the percetion I was talking about. You were percieved as a thief.

Joe, thats exactly the response I was expecting. You sound like your running for office. Personally I really don’t care about the bolt. I just don’t like the way you went about it. Did you ask the first accentionist? I know you didn’t. Because if you did, that would be your response to all the crap you have gotten. Your reasoning is “they should have done it right in the first place” Well as much as I agree with that, we cannot go around and change climbs just to satisfy our own insecurities. If that were the case, most of beacon would change by my own hand and drill. But that is not the case, we have some rules that most of us abide by. Messing with an established climb without asking permission from the FA, is one of them, and you know this. Yet you took it upon your self to be the judge and jury. Wrong! Joe, as you know I have been climbing at Beacon for ten years this month, without taking a break. There was never drama until about 2 and half years ago when you showed up, and it’s not really you showing up that is the drama. It’s the use of the internet. You really have stirred up the hornets nest. You and you alone have done this, and no 3 paragraph essay response will make me believe otherwise. As far as posting for the good of other agencies, bullshit you are posting to pet your ego. Just like you did when you brought all the stolen items you have taken from Beacon and dumped them on my garage floor. Are you going to return all the stolen goods you have taken and give back to the rightful owners? (you know who I’m talking about). Why did you replace BRAND NEW anchors with brand new anchors? To stroke your ego. If you don’t think your doing this for your own ego. Well I have news for you. Perception is reality!

Yeah, so?

Bill, Bill, Bill: missed you at the party! Of course he will reply, in fact im counting on it. But the reality is, this site, or anysite is bad for Beacon. Beacon was doing just fine before self appointed Beacon Stwerard Joe showed up. I have asked him in person, on personal email, and this site to stop posting every time does anything out there. Im just calling him out on his own words, he cleary states he would do what the concensous is. Ask Jim what he thinks about posting on the web about Beacon.

Joe, you openly state you would pull the bolt is that is the consensus of the climbers, well if you stand behind your words, then I ask you by your own standards to stop posting on this web site every time you do anything out at beacon. I have asked you openly along with other people to stop spraying and posting on CC.com about Beacon. And you have openly refused, well you state you would pull a bolt if that is the will of the people, I comend you for that attitude. Well, its time to live up to your own standards. Please stop posting on this web site, for this is the will of the locals (including Jim) who climb there regularly. You state you post only to document the work that has been done. I say BS. you could easyly document it on your own computer. Well, will you stop posting or not?

I was in Bishop, CA, in the pit on a WED night getting ready to head out for ptown the next day. Car packed except for the tent we were sleeping in. Went to bed around 10 or so. The camp sites were silent until about 10:45 or so when 2 cars pulled up and got set up with drinking, drums, guitars, singing, probably about 10 young kids. This went on for about 2 hours. The pit was full, tents all around within 10 feet of ours. I could hear other campers pissed and wisspering in there tent, trying to figure out what to do. So I finaly yelled at the top of my lungs " Shut the fuck up". Well that stired up the nest, all of a sudden, half of the group was "maybe we should be quiet" and the other have was "did some one just tell us to shut the fuck up, let go tent to tent and kick some ass". I could hear the campers in the tents next to our laughing quietly. The mood was broken, within the hour they were quiet and pissed off, I could still hear a couple looking to kill us, They could not figure out where it came from. So in the morning payback is a bitch. My partner and I got up around 5am or so, packed our tent and drove our car over to there tent and put the front of our car right on the door of there tent and layed on the horn for about 30 seconds and split for home.

Joe, how did the cleaning go on Reasonable Richard go? Did you end up adding anymore bolts or pitons?

It rated 10c and will take like a 7 inch piece.

How about $5 a week. A little bit of money is better than no money. Just to clean the bathrooms.

I have the second accent (from ground to summit) and i would have to say, its not easy to find the anchors and belay ledges, so you might want to go out climb it and learn from doing it. Ask around out there, someone will climb it with you. Good luck!

Thanks Joseph, I know its makes no sense to keep beating my head against the wall. But when I say 2 faced I mean, a while ago we (climbers and biologist) had a meeting in Stevenson, and the biologist said openly “I don’t want any persons within 300 feet of the nest”. It was then pointed out, openly, that the trail to the top is 200 feet from the nest, and we, by his own words need to close the entire rock, the biologist then proceeded to change the subject. I believe this is the 2 faced politics I am pointing out. You were not at this meeting to watch a Beacon Rock official ( I don’t remember his title) get pissed we even considered closing the whole rock, he proceeded to state how his wife climbs the trail 5 days a week for morning exercise. It is this kind of politics that has frustrated local climbers for a long time. That one meeting sparked a lot of distrust towards the parties in control of the rock. Once again, I know it makes no difference, just thought you might want to know where all the distrust comes from.

"No human involvement". Well thats a little hipocritical dont you think? Hundreds of thousands of hikers/podestrians climb the path to the top every year. A fellow climber rappelled into the nest one year (when it was on big ledge) and pulled out a coke can and a snickers bar rapper. Climbers do not use these items when climbing. Clearly human involvement. Close the entire rock! For the birds! I know this will never change out there. But once again, mostly our frustration comes from the 2 faced politics behind it all. Not at you Joe. Keep up the good work.