kevbone

Wow Joe, thank the maker we both love to climb. Maybe our views are different about climbing, but our goals seem to be the same, get to the top! Maybe how we get there might be different and thats ok.

Jim cleaned the crap out of it before he led it. I was there and helped clean it and belayed him on the first accent. The style is, what it is. Ground up FA are bold and have a style all on there own, but does not always make a safe and great route. Have you ever been to Jtree, that is a good example of ground up. However bold and glorious, most of those bolted climbs are poorly protected and people get hurt. As far as Genesis goes, he rapped in and put a TR on it, and cleaned it top down. Lets not forget. Most of the climbs on the south face, that we all enjoy, looked like a forest at one time, and Jim and company power cleaned it so you and I can enjoy it. And they did not have to check with big brother to do it.

Like I said "To my knowledge they were put up just like any other climb. Cleaned it, top roped, drilled it, lead it" I appreciate the importance of following the rules, but come on! Letting 2 guys clean some moss, so maybe 10 other people might climb there over the next 20 years is not much to ask, considering how much of Beacon Rock they destroyed putting the trail in, so 600,000 people a year can walk to the top. Or how many trees they cut down in the forrest to build the road you and I drive on to get to Beacon. Having to ask big brother if its ok to play on our big toy is lame. Where does it end? Soon we will have to sign in to climb there.

Yes, those are the routes in question. Thanks for the beta. What do you mean by "the way they were put up" To my knowledge they were put up just like any other climb. Cleaned it, top roped, it drilled, lead it. Its the ranger that had a problem. Any there problem was a lame one at that.

Has anybody climbed Genesis, Jims route on the west face near the parking lot, its got a couple of bolts (optional)? Half way up it you can skirt right (up a different line) up a bolted line that goes all the way up to the next rap station. Does anybody know anything about this route? What it goes at?

I have entered the relm of not being immune to poision oak anymore. I got it on my arms a couple of weeks ago. First time for everything.

I believe that part of the rock is open all year round. You are not able to clean anything, so the opening is a little arbitrary. The existing routes need cleaning and the routes that are ready to be put up need cleaning, so the park is kind of laughing at us. Ha ha!! We will give them this part of the rock to climb on knowing we cant do anything with it without cleaning it properly. Otherwise we are kind of bushwacking! All for some senitive moss that grows all over the entire rock! I just think it is a shame. If you did open it to whoever, only the bold and few would tackle such a huge job of putting routes up on the west face. I help Jim clean Genesis, what a chore that was!

Joe, once again thanks for monitoring the birds and keeping us informed about the possibility of a early opening. As far as your comments on possible routes on the upper NW face: "The protocol in question will likely be the approval of overall lines after a review versus inidividual pieces with the understanding that the priority on the routes be gear, pins, and bolts as a last resort in keeping with Beacon traditions. At this time the BRSP is considering the possibiliy of either they or the BRCA providing the fixed protection required for a route. "Approval of overall lines after a review" will probably entail both identifying what mix of fixed protection is required, and on which stretches of the route, and a survey of objective hazards. " I think this is what John was talking about, the politics that will go along with someone else deciding whether or not a fall is safe on a route they are not putting up will get crazy! If I or someone else overbolts a route, so be it, its there choice being that they are the ones putting the route up. They may be ridiculed for life for it, but once again its intirely the FA choice, thats how its always been. So having a comitty making decisions on what is appropriate gear VS bolts is arbitrary. You may think its safe and another person might not. As for the use of pins, I know you are a little bit more old school than I (that is not a burn), but in my opinion pins are not used because we have powers drills and strong bolts now, its not the 70s anymore, we as climbers dont need to use pins anymore. Im not trying to argue with you, its just the thought of having to submit a route request that makes sence to me, only to be denied because the chairperson is old school (that does not mean you)and shoots it down, its crazy. Of course this may be the only way it will be accomplished. Just my thoughts.

I thought this was cascade CLIMBERS.com not cascade politics.com, any body have any good CLIMBING stories to tell?

Beacon has alot of loose rock and poison oak, stay away!

This county was founded on imigrants, lets not forget that.

Dont forget about Carver, one of the best places to climb, you can lead 5.8 gear and TR 11s and lead 10b face and tr 12s. It a great summer crag due to north facing.

Tell him to hit the gym and make friends with people. Most of the good climbing fiends I have I met at the gym over the last 10 years.

what the hell are you all talking about???

Whats this I hear about Beacon opening this Sunday?

Cool!!!

Just to the right of the parking lot (water fountain) are a couple of realy nice face climbs that protect with gear, they are both about 10+ and are not for beginer climbers, you can TR all of these routes by climbing up the 5.6 gully (dirty) to the big tree, if you climb the route directly under the tree, it is called Forbiden slab 10B, with a piton. Way over to the right is a climb called Genesis, put up by the Flying Dutchman about 3 years ago. It goes at about 5.7 or so, there are a couple of bolts but they are optional. At that anchor you can step right and climb a bolted climb up to an anchor, from there you step left and climb the original line (Circa 1910 or so), using the original metal rods sticking out of the wall about 8 inches or so, your pro is slinging these. Unfortunataly like Joseph said we are not able to develop any more over here due to some sensitive moss growing there. But what is there is fun.

What is human parvo?

If they did nest in these places, then they would have no reason to close the rock, from climbers. If they would close the entire rock to all climber and hikers, I might be alittle more understanding to the birds. And we all know they are not endangered anymore. Considering they nest on top of the Freemont brigde and half of the tall buildings downtown. Sorry just venting!!!

Thanks!

Just a question: If it is proven that the birds did not nest there this last year and are not nesting in nesting season ( april and may )this year, then how can they justify closing the rock to perigrin nesting when there are no birds?

There are two seasons in OR, winter and August! Its not August yet. Dont forget about Broughtons. Usually it stays pretty dry on the bat wall, but as for what Joseph pointed out, it has been a rainy winter here. I usualy climb outside every weekend in the winter living in Ptown, but not this winter. Off to pull on plastic. Im not ashamed. (or am I)

I would rather be hard core.

You guys, and you know who you are, ( and Im not dissing you ) spend way to much time on the internet, and expecialy this site!!!! here here to the flying dutchman!!

I suppose the end result needs to be the rock that never closes, and is open for all kinds of rock climbing all year round. What ever it takes to make friends with everybody, I have never harbored any ill wish on anybody out there, for Beacon is my church where I go to pray. I just did not want to see webbing on the tree. Times do change and it seems now we have to abide by the rules of the times. We ( the climbers ) should be better organized, I agree. We never have had any fire power as the higherups have gathered to decide the fate of the closures. So if this gathering of information will help get the rock open, I am behind it. For the goal is realy to climb year round. Joe, initialy I was called upon to read the site about the tree, and as I got more involved I called some other locals who might have an opinion. I was not trying to make it out that I have not got others interested about it. As from the start of the meetings ( down at the lucky lab ) I am willing to do what it takes to get the rock open. I guess we will just have to disagree about posting all that you do online. I am willing to help with anchor replacements as you have seen, and want to be involved in the meetings. Joe/Bill, I am just scared about losing all of Beacon rock to online banter. We are all in this together and share a love for the special place in the gorge. We might disagree about how we do things, but if we didnt, we would not be human. As you all know I and we are very passionate about Beacon and we all have to find common ground to tread on, so we can move forward to clean up our church.