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fgw

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Everything posted by fgw

  1. SnailEye, this I think is what you were referring to from steins. last one is the rap set up on top of pillars of hercules (sticks & moss).
  2. Those were still there 3 or so years ago. Lots of mank still around - esp. on Oregon Towers that don't see much traffic.
  3. The bashed in nut on P3 (?) of Liberty Crack might've been mentioned in a couple TR's.
  4. don't know about famous, but memorable fixed stuff. this is a bolt ladder in the Fishers:
  5. The Watts guidebook seems to be one of the best guidebooks to any crag area esp. considering the number of routes he includes (my humble opinion). Seems no matter how obscure the line, I always get the impression the guy has actually been on it. Can't say the same about the very limited Thesenga guidbook (pretty route overlay photos tho)
  6. Bill, not chimney the chelly.
  7. only got an ass shot of this Smith pitch - sorry.
  8. should've mentioned that this would be too easy for markd
  9. a smith classic:
  10. pitch 2 of Overhanging Hangover in Red Rocks. A few things mixed in - some crack, steep but juggy face section, a delicate face finish. Cool position, only 1 pitch up but felt pretty exposed.
  11. Dan, I only wish I could write something on the topic. The article's by Don Baars & Jeff Thomas with many others contributing. I'm assuming it's made it into this year's issue.
  12. Well I guess the "classic climb" part is subjective but I think the article should be good.
  13. hehehe - all this talk of nailing. Dan, you gonna love the new Mazama annual bulletin this year I think. Great article on a classic Oregon nail up.
  14. think I've heard that story from the dude in the descent shot Some of your Yos. shots probably include Salaginella (sweet hand crack??), Nutcracker (layback), Pineline (el cap shot). Knobby looking wide crack in gold granite looks like Tuolumne but can't put my finger on which route.
  15. Great TR!! Frogland? The next RR shot might be the double-rope-rap-option descent off of Black Orpheus?
  16. Single "bolt" + gear belay. Then a 4th-low 5th traverse down, across, then up a gully to the backside trail, ~300' of choss simulclimb.
  17. fgw

    Skull Hollow

    camped there 2 wks. ago & it's pretty much like what the thread on smithrock.com describes - a couple of semi-permanent looking set-ups. Some shouting in middle of the night. There were 2 BLM cop cars there that evening. Seems like maybe they've stepped up their patrols there. I woud not leave anything there while I'm gone. edit in: http://www.smithrock.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=529
  18. that's really racking them up in one trip!! way to go - congrats esp. on the tower bagging. Cool photos too.
  19. We have met Jim briefly and only once by Elephants Perch in ID where he generously offered us beta on some climb. I have also bothered him countless times for info. on some obscure adventure climbs here -- he was always willing to share his vast knowledge. He always struck me as a very humble & approachable guy. This is such a tragedy! His presence will be very much missed! Our thoughts & prayers go out to Jim's family.
  20. Nice TR & photos. It's a fun, very exposed route. Supposedly it's easy to rap down the North Face but never tried that. Clipping that reachy bolt 1st time around took some thinking; 2nd time had a cheater stick. I had a couple of hooks but could not find a placement for one - probably missed something? Haulbag gives a plumbline reference:
  21. Yeah I think it's tough to find a clear cut winner in all 5. Funny how nobody mentioned (rightfully so IMHO) any CA cities.
  22. Flagstaff seems like a nice place and it is kinda high elevation wise -- still might be way too hot in the summer?? Kinda got the same impression of Boulder as MCash (based on 1 visit so I might be off). Can't imagine not being bored out of my mind anywhere east of the Rockies. I really like Portland but obviously you're sacrificing much in 1-4 categories for some 5.
  23. SLC, UT. 1.)Cottonwood Canyons for one. Other places too probably? 2.)How close is it to other, more varied climbing areas that you could reasonably climb for the weekend at without driving all night long? Moab is about 4 hours. City Of Rocks is about 2 hours. Zion is probably 4 hrs. Red Rocks is I'd guess 5 hours. Ouray seems not too far either. Black Canyon is close to Ouray. Tetons & Winds are 5-6 hrs. Sawtooths (ID) are probably 6 hours or so? The airport is pretty well connected - can probably find cheap flights. 3.)Weather. How many climbable days a year are there? See above list - this would keep you busy year-round. In-town crags I'd guess are snowy probably in winter?? 4.)Scenery. Is it a pretty place to live? Seems a bit sprawled out but not too bad. 5.)Local Culture. Will you live in a uni-bomber cabin lusting after the one single girl within 500 miles? Movies, restaurants, nightlife, good places to spend a non-climbing day? might be a tough one coming from Portland or Seattle but can't be that bad given it's a large city?
  24. fgw

    Megalodon Man

    Awesome! Finally an article I care about in there. Congrats!
  25. Dr. Doom. #4.5 Camalot sitting at bottom.
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