fgw

Loop road late exit pass: 702 515 5050. Free & painless - no need to stop at the visitor center.

I recommend getting that Larry DeAngelo book "Red Rock Odyssey". Great read w. great photos - makes me want to go back every time I flip thru. it. In addition to what others mention, Crimson Chrysallis 9P 5.8 - probably best 5.8 I've been on. Might be crowded but there's Ginger Cracks next door as plan B. Shady. pain in the ass approach. Triassic Sands 6P 5.10 (only about 20 feet of 5.10 - I've heard "old timers" call it a 5.9 - I thought it was pretty 5.10 but i'm weak). Beautiful line and goes quickly as most pitches are 5.8 or easier. 40 minute approach. Frigid Air Buttress. 10P (doable in 6 or 7 long pitches) 5.9+. Fun pitches separated by huge ledges. Most of it is 5.7-5.8. Shady but we did it in Jan. and it was reasonable. Painful descent. 20 minute approach. Community Pillar. 6P 5.9 (one 5.9 squeeze on first pitch - easier if you're small) with much 5.7-5.8 chimney's/wideness (some runouts). 25 minute approach.

how about Big Bend outside of Moab? It's in Fred Knapp guidebook - no idea if any good though weather's better.

Also.

Cave Route is also kind of a cool route there. Could do Round River, Marsup. Trav., & then CR.

I noticed that star ratings can imply different things in different areas. For example, in Watt's guidebook as the star rating drops, so does the soundness of the rock in the main area. In the Gorge, seems 1- or 2- star routes are still nice & on good rock though usually not as sustained as 3- to 4-stars ones.

Community Pillar has one 5.9 section on first pitch = a squeeze (more like 5.7 if you're under 150 lbs) and the rest is <5.8 with some runouts on wide stuff. 3/5 stars at best. entertaining TR on Lady Wilson's C: here

I know - that's how I meant it. For me it's "tricky or quirky moves" on that one.

Blood Clot in Lower Gorge feels a bit different than other 10b's around there.

It's Smith Rock Group. Josh got it right - it's the 4-star 5th pitch (5.9 dihedral) of Snibble Tower (other pitches get no stars per Watts).

Sorry for poor picture quality. "No" on the white satin. It's hands to fingers to very short wide slot.

Not Trezlar.

Wrong wall Winter. Good star rating but pretty obscure.

"No" on all 3 so far.

what about this one? (probably too easy)

Doctor doom. That looks fun.

Brain Salad Surgery??

Nice! fun looking stuff!!

Think I would get more excited if a state-wide book similar to Nick Dodge's old guidebook came out. A more thorough x-section of climbing in the state. For ex., include some adventure choss in a state-wide guidebook. If you're going to write something with a title like "Oregon Rock", include a more thorough set of routes. The 3-volume series by Orton is good, I esp. like the volume with Jim Anglin's Menagerie guide (new sport line development & historical aid lines). Wish these guys would write a 4th volume to cover the rest of the state.

"first ed single vol from Brjonstad" GREAT book with beautiful photos (b&w) and includes much stuff that is illegal to climb now. Almost worth the $200 it now goes for... C. Burns Select's is another option for a comprehensive single volume guidebook with some inaccuracies (Green's is probably better even if it has fewer desert tower routes). Indian Cr. guidebook (above) has some pretty pictures.

Southwest was having some pretty good deals to reno as of last Sunday. Best was something like $80 rt + all the taxes ~ $100+/person rt.

What about the 96-foot band pitch on South Face route on Saint Peters Dome (gorge)? LOOKS kinda sandbagged at A2??

Last summer, a total of 3 parties (incl. us) converged on the same sunny Sunday on the E. Face of Minuteman Tower. Weird

Did the route a week prior to you and essentially had the same issues and did the same "variation" (down to having to pendulum left to reach the crest of the Fin). Nice TR.

Guess my wife and I ran into you guys on Sat. morning. Glad to read you had a good climb. Backbone was great.